How long do your commuting bike's components last for?

Applespider

I know this question is a little like 'how long is a piece of string?' but any mileage guidelines for commuting brakepads, chain, cassette, front cogs, cables etc? My main commuter is a Trek hybrid which has done about 6000 miles and a recent 'MOT' has suggested a new chain/cassette, potentially new front cogs and new brake pads (front ones last done about 3000 miles ago, back ones never). I don't think they're trying to rip me off but just wanted to get some idea of how many miles people usually do before considering replacements?

davis

I'd say 6000 miles is about right for a chain and cassette. Get two chains and swap them over and you'll get a bit more out of the cassette. I haven't actually needed to replace chainrings yet (mine seem to be going forever), and I do cables and brakepads on feel and looking at them.

nameinuse

I'd say that's a reasonable lifetime for all of the components you mentioned that need replacing, depending on the bike and the condition it's ridden and kept in it could be a lot less....I was getting half that per chain on my hybrid. A worn chain does slowly eat the cassette and chainrings, so if the whole lot has had 6000miles on it then there is a chance it all need doing. If you have the choice, decent brake pads are one of the single most straightforward upgrades to a commuter bike, too.

veronese68

I think I did my chain and cassette at something nearer 5,000 miles. Then realised I should have done the chainrings too. Brake pads probably about every 2,000 miles.
Bikes is used in alll weather and rides along some pretty gritty paths so may suffer with more wear than most. I need a new pair of wheels soon. I can still just about see the wear indicators.

meanredspider

Are you getting any symptoms from the transmission? If not, I'd be tempted to ride them a bit longer - after all, if you are changing rings & cassette too, you'll be doing no harm.

ChrisLS

Doesn't sound you have been ripped off. I would give the same advice...

craker

A guy at work, a fellow bike commuter, ridicules me for the amount I spend on my commuting bike(s). Yearly items for me are tyres (rear especially), & chain but then I do tend to cascade bits from my best bike down to my worst.

Anyway my mate bought his £350 mountain bike about 12 years ago and to my knowledge has changed tyres, saddle, brake pads and a shifter. His running cost last year - nil. Mine - £1500 (However I'm on 5000 commuting miles per year to his 1000 or so.) His middle chainring is so worn he can't use it as the chain slips. The headset and bottom bracket and wheel bearings have all got excessive play in them. The mech hanger is bent, the brakes ineffective and the front suspension hasn't moved in years.

My point? Ummmm... sometimes a bike gets beyond economical repair and may as well be ridden into the ground?

Twostage

There's a bike in the cage at work where all of the drive chain is red with rust. It's used daily. Every morning I look at and think surely just a bit oil :? I'm even tempted to start stealth fettling.

Applespider

meanredspider wrote:

Are you getting any symptoms from the transmission? If not, I'd be tempted to ride them a bit longer - after all, if you are changing rings & cassette too, you'll be doing no harm.

Well, it's starting to feel a bit clunky when changing into 'popular' gears as in it doesn't always switch smoothly even after a good clean/lube so I wasn't entirely surprised when they suggested a new chain/cassette. They've just commented that I may end up with the front gears not being entirely smooth if I don't do the whole thing but haven't actually quoted for that since it's not apparently that obvious. I might give them a call and ask how much it would be and then make a call.

As I say, I didn't think they were ripping me off; just wanted to know perhaps how soon I should look out for things starting to go next time! Total cost including a service and the replacements is still under a z1-2 monthly travelcard which isn't bad after 16 months of commuting on it!

Chuckling over Twostage's comment on stealth fettling. I was doing some stuff on the commuter on Sunday and seriously considered pumping up the tyres of the other bikes that live in our communal hallway but rarely move.

rolf_f

I've come to the conclusion that virtually all my wear and tear comes in December and January. Riding in those months in the wet with the salt, grit and general nastiness has far more impact mile for mile than any number of summer miles. I almost always seem to need to get a cassette in Feb (complicated by me running a number of bikes but, generally, I reckon I could set up a direct debit for cassettes in Feb and never end up with a surplus!)

roger_merriman

With the big hybrid I used to go though rear wheels, like they where going out of fashion, new single speed road bike, does eat chains but the chain ring is fairly worn so hardly surprising, I'll give it new stuff, in the summer.

corshamjim

The 5-speed hub gear on my Pashley lasted about nine months. The 3-speed I replaced it with is going fine still with no maintenance after just over two years. The plastic mudguards lasted about three years before warping. The brake pads on the drum brakes just go on forever. I'm sure the chainset (with 1/4" chain) will eventually wear but I've no problems yet either except occasionally will take up any slack in the chain. The Marathon Plus tyres are still going strong after I guess 3,000 miles or so (with no punctures at all in that time either). I've just moved those over to another bike and replaced them with Panaracer RiBMo.

One huge advantage of the drum brakes is there's no wear on the wheel rims, no mucky brake dust to clean off them and no worries about getting a bit of oil on the rims. Add to that the simple drive-train, this bike is much less fiddly to maintain than one with a derailleurs and rim brakes.

Sharkyssurfers

well after 2,500 - 3,000 miles my free hub had given up the ghost this morning reached aldgate and was spinning my legs very fast but going nowhere :oops: , popped in to CS, and now having new wheels mavic askisums, new chain and cassette, which my lbs failed to pick up on a service not long back :? so i'm gonna be in the dog house for a while :roll:

UndercoverElephant

Coastal commute here: chains last about 2,000 miles, a cassette about two or three chains, brake pads go after about 1,500 miles. This is why I learned to do my own maintenance.

craker

So do quick links work for chain maintenance? I've come to the comclusion - sadly - that I can't be doing with the struggle of undoing a quick link in even new chains. Once they're locked they're a right pig to undo and result in much cussing, oily hands and bent links.

Special technique? Special tool?

veronese68

craker wrote:

Special tool?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=46600

meanredspider

craker wrote:

So do quick links work for chain maintenance? I've come to the comclusion - sadly - that I can't be doing with the struggle of undoing a quick link in even new chains. Once they're locked they're a right pig to undo and result in much cussing, oily hands and bent links.

Special technique? Special tool?

Don't think they are designed for multiple re-use

Twostage

craker wrote:

So do quick links work for chain maintenance? I've come to the comclusion - sadly - that I can't be doing with the struggle of undoing a quick link in even new chains. Once they're locked they're a right pig to undo and result in much cussing, oily hands and bent links.

Special technique? Special tool?

KMC ones are easy once you have the knack. Put the chain into a small cog at the back. Get the link in the middle and hold it from above with your left hand. Squeeze the chain either side with your right hand so the links either side form a V with the quick link across the top of the V. As you're in a small cog there should be plenty of slack in the chain. Now squeeze the sides of the quick link together and apply sidewards pressure with the finger and thumb of your right hand, your thumb pushing the plate behind to the right and your finger the front plate to the left. The links should slide ready to be pulled apart. A lot more difficult to explain than do. I should put a video up on youtube.

meanredspider

Twostage wrote:

KMC ones are easy once you have the knack.

You should tell my LBS that. Fortunately I asked them if they'd mind swapping the link when my KMC link cracked/broke on one side and I was in to buy a replacement (and a spare). Despite only needing to undo the other side, they ended up resorting to a chain splitter on it...

rolf_f

meanredspider wrote:

Twostage wrote:

KMC ones are easy once you have the knack.

You should tell my LBS that. Fortunately I asked them if they'd mind swapping the link when my KMC link cracked/broke on one side and I was in to buy a replacement (and a spare). Despite only needing to undo the other side, they ended up resorting to a chain splitter on it...

I usually find them OK but I do clean my chains regularly so maybe that helps. Once they've been on/off a couple of times it is easy. I partly wrecked the Dawes chainset by leaving one chain on too long because I couldn't shift the Shimano quick link - just impossible. Terrible design.

veronese68

There was a tip somewhere that said put your chain on the big ring with the quick link on the ring. Lift one end of the chain around one tooth so that the quick link sticks up like a triangle then strike the apex of the triangle with a hammer or rock.
I had one that was stuck fast and went to try that method but it just felt like butchery. So I ordered the pliers from CRC and they worked a treat.

Blacktemplar

+1 for winter gunge wearing out components quicker.

I've just replaced a chain & cassette after about 6 months and a couple of thousand miles. It's the grit wot does it. BB is getting a bit wrecked now after 2 years and more than 6,000 miles, so are the chainrings and I've had a new headset in recent months.

It's not just the weather though, the state of the roads around Glasgow is a disgrace, so any load-bearing structure is getting a right battering on a daily basis. I'm thinking of taking up off-road extreme mountain biking for a rest.....

willy b

I've done around 6,000 miles (Feb 2011) on the current drivetrain, and I bought the whole bike SH. Chap said he hadn't done many miles and the general condition would suggest this.

I could probably do with new rings, chain & Cassette, but until it does shift properly then i'll no replace! Brake pads are at about 2/3 wear, so no idea how people are only getting 2,000 miles out of a set of pads :shock:

wyadvd

craker wrote:

So do quick links work for chain maintenance? I've come to the comclusion - sadly - that I can't be doing with the struggle of undoing a quick link in even new chains. Once they're locked they're a right pig to undo and result in much cussing, oily hands and bent links.

Special technique? Special tool?

keep practicing, it aint that difficult, but depends on the brand. kmc are dead easy. if you start by bending them across the width of the chain quite hard before you simultaneously squeeze the link between forefingers and thumbs and press together along the link.

clark cheapo chains are a b@gger.

meanredspider

willy b wrote:

so no idea how people are only getting 2,000 miles out of a set of pads :shock:

Stopping at red lights????

notsoblue

Re: Quicklinks - If they're tight I just use pliers to squeeze the opposite corners together. If you clean them often enough though, you can do this by hand.

willy b

meanredspider wrote:

willy b wrote:

so no idea how people are only getting 2,000 miles out of a set of pads :shock:

Stopping at red lights????

meanredspider

willy b wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

willy b wrote:

so no idea how people are only getting 2,000 miles out of a set of pads :shock:

Stopping at red lights????

Sorry - that was a bit unfair

pdw

Just changed the chain on mine after around 4k miles. It was still perfectly smooth but was at about 0.75% stretch, so any more and I'd probably have to change the cassette too.

I've previously waited until the chain either breaks or starts jumping before changing it, although at that point you'll definitely need a new cassette and possibly chainrings. I haven't figured out which approach works out cheaper overall, but changing the chain sooner means you spend more of your life with a nice smooth transmission.

gbsahne001

I always change the chain and cassette at the same time, especially on the commuter, as I really only use two of the gears on that