Rear wheel issues
TheRevOlutionary
Posts: 1,176
Good evening gentlemen.
I have a Felt Q720, and have been having some issues with noise and limited movement on my rear wheel. The old Hayes rotor was warped and rubbing on the pads, and the chain had picked up some dirt over the winter, so changed them both. After putting the new rotor on (160mm Saint RT-79) I noticed it was even more stiff when aligning the caliper. Took the caliper off to clean/check it, and spun the wheel without it on and it was still stiff? So the caliper is not slowing the wheel, yet when I remove the wheel completely it spins freely on the skewer.
What on earth is stopping the wheel spinning freely?!
I have a Felt Q720, and have been having some issues with noise and limited movement on my rear wheel. The old Hayes rotor was warped and rubbing on the pads, and the chain had picked up some dirt over the winter, so changed them both. After putting the new rotor on (160mm Saint RT-79) I noticed it was even more stiff when aligning the caliper. Took the caliper off to clean/check it, and spun the wheel without it on and it was still stiff? So the caliper is not slowing the wheel, yet when I remove the wheel completely it spins freely on the skewer.
What on earth is stopping the wheel spinning freely?!
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Comments
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What is the rear wheel and hub?0
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Both stock. Shimano hub, and WBT SX24 wheel?0
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I'd strip and service the hub, then adjust so that there is just a tiny bit of play off the bike.
Check axle is not bent.0 -
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Well you can get the tools: see park tools for advice and guides.0
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Looking at Park tools, I may have overtightened the axle locknut on to the cone?0
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Very likely ;-)0
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Rear axle nut loosened, and wheel much freer...but now the gears jump under load?
Is that going to be part of the same issue, and because the axle has shifted the cassette slightly they need aligning with the adjustment screws, or do I have another issue?! Why is it only under load?0 -
The axle could have only shifted very very slightly - readjust gears and see how you go.0
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Thanks, i'll see how I go...0
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Getting wound up now!
I've adjusted H and L screws as Park Tools have suggested, checked the derailleur is aligned and generally double checked everything I can, but in the middle of the cassette it keeps catching or switching between cogs??? Inner and Outer line up fine, but I can't spend all of my time at either end of the cassette!
I only changed the chain, what could have gone wrong in that???0 -
it could be that the cassette has worn and now the new chain doesn't fit it properly, skipping over the tops of the teeth under load.
in the OP, you said you changed the chain as it was dirty. Cleaning the chain would have been a cheaper option. My chain gets dirty on most mtb rides.--
Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails0 -
The cassette was recently changed too at Evans (6months ago?), and ordinarily I'd clean the chain but I was assuming the noise was an issue with the chain too, so figured I'd just change it and eliminate the possibility.0
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giving a date since purchase/fitting isn't always helpful, how many miles/hours use has it had?
I get around 3-4 months or 1000-1500km out of a chain (sometimes as little as 500km), 3-4 chains (18mths- 2years 3000-5000km) out of a cassette.
However, sometimes I have let a chain get too stretched and this wears the cassette quickly, after i have replaced a chain i sometimes need to replace the cassette when not expecting to.
How are the brake pads? are the brake pistons fully retracting? try pushing them in fully (carefully).--
Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails0 -
I'd say approx 80hrs/400miles use since the cassette was replaced - it also had a new chain then as well.
The rear wheel rub has lessened with the axle correction, but the new disc is rubbing ever so slightly on the pads, so may try adjust that too.0 -
TheRevOlutionary wrote:I'd say approx 80hrs/400miles use since the cassette was replaced - it also had a new chain then as well.
The rear wheel rub has lessened with the axle correction, but the new disc is rubbing ever so slightly on the pads, so may try adjust that too.
You may never get rid of slightly warped rotors, you can true them up, but they may warp next time they heat up and cool quickly.--
Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails0 -
These are not even two days old yet!0
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Remember to let the brakes bed in after readjustment, Rubbing often diminishes, and a slight bit is no problem.0
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TheRevOlutionary wrote:I'd say approx 80hrs/400miles use since the cassette was replaced - it also had a new chain then as well.
Only you know how well you maintain your drivetrain (cleaning/lubing) but it's perfectly possible to wear out a cassette and chain in that time/distance.
Since you've changed the chain and now it doesn't mesh with the sprockets..............Courage is doing what you're afraid to do. There can be no courage unless you're scared - Rickenbacker.0
