Convert My Carrera To Single Speed. Help Needed!

CustomC
CustomC Posts: 122
edited March 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi, i would like to convert my current 27 gear setup to a 1 Gear at the back and 3 at the front!

I however don't know what parts i will need nor how to do it. As far as i can figure out i will need a smaller cog at the back and some sort of adapter on the back so that the back cog is in the right place. As far as i know i will also need a chain tensioner since I'm keeping 3 gears at the front?

That's All i know so i come here once again asking for help. i have got some basic bike knowledge and a few tools.

Here is a pic of my bike in-case it helps:
IMG_0607.jpg
IMG_0608.jpg
IMG_0609.jpg

PS: yes my bike needs a good clean after all the salt during the "scottish winter" ... :mrgreen:

Any Help and Advice is greatly appreciated!

Comments

  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    Something like this will work on the rear wheel - spacers, sprocket and a tensioner

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=10009

    This model also means you don't have to change your chain. Your current front mech will still work however I am not sure how changing gear will affect the chain line (and thus the chain falling off) as the point of the different sized spacers is to correctly align it. Sounds like it might be easier converting to one ring on the front (and getting rid of front mech, shifter and 2 chain rings), and keeping your cassete etc if you still want a range of gears?
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    See the info in the FAQs above.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • mcj78
    mcj78 Posts: 634
    Greer_ wrote:
    Sounds like it might be easier converting to one ring on the front (and getting rid of front mech, shifter and 2 chain rings), and keeping your cassete etc if you still want a range of gears?

    I'd say that sounds a whole lot easier than using your 3 chainrings as a "cassette" & using your front mech the way your rear is designed to be used... plus you'd have 6 extra gears to play with 8)
    Moda Issimo
    Genesis Volare 853
    Charge Filter Apex
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    mcj78 wrote:
    Greer_ wrote:
    Sounds like it might be easier converting to one ring on the front (and getting rid of front mech, shifter and 2 chain rings), and keeping your cassete etc if you still want a range of gears?

    I'd say that sounds a whole lot easier than using your 3 chainrings as a "cassette" & using your front mech the way your rear is designed to be used... plus you'd have 6 extra gears to play with 8)

    Costs pretty much nothing too - unless you want specific cranks or to replace your cassette/chain. You will also be able remove a few links from your chain (replacement or current one)
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If you want just a small number of gears you could replace the cassette with just 3 or 4 gears from a dismantleable SRAM cassette, keep rear mech and shifter and go single ring at the front.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    The above is a better idea than 3 at the front 1 at the rear. However many folk ride single speed including me.

    If you do go SS then you can run the bike without a tensioner if you get the sproket sizes right. I do and it is so much better than running a cheap tensioner.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • CustomC
    CustomC Posts: 122
    Hi, the only reason i wanted to get rid of the rear gears is because in every jump the dereiler is flopping about making noises and unwanted weight. I also wanted 1 gear on the back and 3 on the front to keep the costs down. As the Deore Crank is relatively new and cost me £55 so i would like to keep that. Is this really not possible? I thought that having Just 3 gears at front would still work. Has this ever been done?
    Also if i was to have 3 gears at the front and a correctly sized sprocket in the rear would that not mean i would preserve a better range of gears that would be more similar to my current setup ? E.G- Low Medium and High??
  • styxd
    styxd Posts: 3,234
    I think you should buy a Sturmey Archer and be done with it.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    three on the front is possible, but you still need the rear mech to take up the chain slack in smaller I rings, so you'll still need to fix it, the cost of going single speed at the rear is greater than the cost of a decent used rear mech anyway........you can keep the chainset even if you go single, you're only replacing the rings, my daughters uses that HT2 set with an eNVy single ring.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • CustomC
    CustomC Posts: 122
    styxd wrote:
    I think you should buy a Sturmey Archer and be done with it.
    Slightly Expensive:
    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-arch ... rc=froogle
  • CustomC
    CustomC Posts: 122
    three on the front is possible, but you still need the rear mech to take up the chain slack in smaller I rings, so you'll still need to fix it, the cost of going single speed at the rear is greater than the cost of a decent used rear mech anyway........you can keep the chainset even if you go single, you're only replacing the rings, my daughters uses that HT2 set with an eNVy single ring.

    Simon

    Can i not use a Chain Tensioner to take the chain slack if i was to leave 3 gears at the front?>

    Can someone advise me on what parts i would need iF i was to go either totally single speed or 3 at the front or the above recommendation?

    So i know how much cost roughly is going to be involved?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    SS chain tensioners are often fixed not sprung, some are sprung but won't have the range for 3 rings, so no you can't use one.

    To go SS
    Single speed conversion for rear hub, tensioner, shorten chain, ideally SS chainring but can use the Deore steels OK.

    to go 3x1
    SS conversion, new rear mech, shorten chain

    to go 1x3->9
    New rear mech, chain guide at front (can be bash and jump stop, singer etc etc) and suitable cassette and or spacers.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • mcj78
    mcj78 Posts: 634
    SS chain tensioners are often fixed not sprung, some are sprung but won't have the range for 3 rings, so no you can't use one.

    To go SS
    Single speed conversion for rear hub, tensioner, shorten chain, ideally SS chainring but can use the Deore steels OK.

    to go 3x1
    SS conversion, new rear mech, shorten chain

    to go 1x3->9
    New rear mech, chain guide at front (can be bash and jump stop, singer etc etc) and suitable cassette and or spacers.

    Simon

    Existing rear mech should be fine for 1x9, no? Then just remove the outer & inner chainrings if size of the middle one suits (might need shorter chainring bolts :idea: ) - chainguide would definitely be a good idea too...

    It's not impossible to go 3x1 but it would be a bit of a ball-ache & doubt it would ever work as well as 1x9... you'd still need a sprung tensioner to take up the slack somewhere along the lines & every time you shift the chain might jump the rear cog... I do see where you're coming from with the 3 gears though, just think it'd be more hassle (&£) than it's worth ultimately!

    J
    Moda Issimo
    Genesis Volare 853
    Charge Filter Apex
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    CustomC wrote:
    Hi, the only reason i wanted to get rid of the rear gears is because in every jump the dereiler is flopping about making noises
    Maybe not OK........will need shorter bolts for single chainring unless using a bash, will need a chainguide for 1xanything.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • CustomC
    CustomC Posts: 122
    Ok iwe just read through the newest post after my last post and to be honest iwe not a clue what to do...

    So there is no chance at all to do 1 at the back and 3 at the front?
  • snotty badger
    snotty badger Posts: 1,593
    You'd need to run a rear mech to take up the chain slack.

    I can see why though, it would give you a decent spread ratio wise.

    Really you'd best going SS 1 x 1, less moving parts then.
    08 Pitch Pro
    14 Kona Unit
    Kona Kula SS
    Trailstar SS
    94 Univega Alpina 5.3
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Well I would say either SS or (for now) staying 27 speed seems the best bet, whether to go 1x9 (or less) later is a seperate decision really, as anything but SS requires a new rear mech.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.