2x10 Front Mech Issues
clamps81
Posts: 315
Hoping someone here can offer advice, solutions or bits to help with my front mech nightmare. Bike is a 2011 Tomac Snyper.
Because I’m still a bit of a newbie with bikes I went ahead and bought myself shimanos 2×10 XT groupset. This has led me into a world of pain and nightmarish computability issues because nothing works with the 2×10 stuff. I do love the ratios though and want to stick with it if possible. On to my problem. My front mech sits too high on the seatpost and I can’t move it any lower because of the location of the bracing strut for the suspension. Bike shop reckons I can run an e-type mech on there, but there are a number of problems here :
3×10 XT e type mech won’t play nice with the chainline and double cranks. Shimano make a 2×10 one, but it doesn’t have a bb plate (you can get one spare though). Worse still is that my frame doesn’t have the bolt on the tube to secure it. You can get an adapter for it, but I’m certain I’ll run into the same issue whereby the bracing strut won’t allow it to mount in the correct place.
Shimano do a 2×10 direct mount system and I’ve seen adapters for it that clamp on - problem solvers make one for starters. I am hoping I can find one (no luck yet) that will actually give me a step down so that I can mount the front mech in the right place. This seems like the neatest solution to me, but the only adapter I can find mounts it level. The actual standard for direct mounting is quite simple and the specs CAD stuff is online, but I don’t think bodge-able to make one and it’s not like I’ve got any CNC equipment lying around.
The e-type option looks like my best bet at present, but I’m loathe to spend more money on this and it’s completely doing my head in.
Before anyone gets any bright ideas, going 1×10 is simply not an option. My legs are far too feeble!
I could of course get a 3×10 crank and mech, which is expensive but will definitely work.
Any ideas and help much appreciated guys.
Because I’m still a bit of a newbie with bikes I went ahead and bought myself shimanos 2×10 XT groupset. This has led me into a world of pain and nightmarish computability issues because nothing works with the 2×10 stuff. I do love the ratios though and want to stick with it if possible. On to my problem. My front mech sits too high on the seatpost and I can’t move it any lower because of the location of the bracing strut for the suspension. Bike shop reckons I can run an e-type mech on there, but there are a number of problems here :
3×10 XT e type mech won’t play nice with the chainline and double cranks. Shimano make a 2×10 one, but it doesn’t have a bb plate (you can get one spare though). Worse still is that my frame doesn’t have the bolt on the tube to secure it. You can get an adapter for it, but I’m certain I’ll run into the same issue whereby the bracing strut won’t allow it to mount in the correct place.
Shimano do a 2×10 direct mount system and I’ve seen adapters for it that clamp on - problem solvers make one for starters. I am hoping I can find one (no luck yet) that will actually give me a step down so that I can mount the front mech in the right place. This seems like the neatest solution to me, but the only adapter I can find mounts it level. The actual standard for direct mounting is quite simple and the specs CAD stuff is online, but I don’t think bodge-able to make one and it’s not like I’ve got any CNC equipment lying around.
The e-type option looks like my best bet at present, but I’m loathe to spend more money on this and it’s completely doing my head in.
Before anyone gets any bright ideas, going 1×10 is simply not an option. My legs are far too feeble!
I could of course get a 3×10 crank and mech, which is expensive but will definitely work.
Any ideas and help much appreciated guys.
0
Comments
-
what version of front mech is it? M78?
and what are your ring sizes?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Is the front mech your struggling with high or low mount, would the other fit?
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Nick : Yes, it's currently it's an FD-M786. Cranks are 38-26. Even with the mech down as low as it will go on the seatpost it's got too much clearance on the big ring. I did contemplate trying to remove some material from the band of the clamp, but would have to get rid of loads and worried about weakening it by doing so.
Simon : High mount is what's specified by Tomac, but that's for triples. It's what I'm currently running. No chance of a low fitting and bottom brace for suspension is in the way.0 -
What clearance doe it have to the big ring, and more importantly does it actually cause a problem? I suspect it will shift just fine even with 10mm plus clearance as it sized for an upto 44T big ring.
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Mmm i think the easiest solution will be bigger rings.
then having a E type fitting and get some hard ware made.
have fun."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
-
yep had a look at your pics.
you could play with the chain line and try the 3 ring mech."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0
oh dear. Thanks for the advice though. 
