Custom build advice on WIP - 2500 £ budget

IBISMojoHDamon

Tactica wrote:

Sealant in tyres is something I didn't really grasp. I've been reading on them, but I though they were for tubeless conversions mostly. My rims and tires are tubeless already so what would I gain from sealant? Puncture protection I guess?

If you get a thorn or nail in your tire, sealant will fix it, It also lines the porous nature of any tire.. I have Continental X-Kings (Tubeless UST) and when getting them to seal, the Stans sealant helped them getting air in the tire when first pumping them up..

Tactica

thanks for the advice. I will look into this.

Tactica

First batch of components arrived and not everything went according to plan. The other Avid Elixir 9 lever was missing a clamp but luckily CRC was happy to send a replacement for it. One other thing I noticed with the brakes was that the other brake lever assembly had some minor liquid residue over it. I'm hoping the brake fluid isn't leaking. I have to check this after I have installed them.

Second problem I encountered was popping the Kendas on the Mavic rims. I worked on them for one and a half hour without results. Floor pump just wasn't enough. Had to take them down to the local bike shop to be fitted with a compressor. They do look great now and weight reasonable little. Rims are true judged by eye and the freewheel is quiet.

As was predictable, I have some new questions for you pros

Valves: Mavic rims were bundled with valves of course, and the have an assembly which enables them to be either Prestas or Schraeders. I installed the plastic parts to make them the latter, but when the repairman at the bike shop was inflating the tires, he mumbled something like "bloody toy parts, get out of the way" and removed them while he worked on the wheels. Should I use prestas then? What was he about?

The other thing I noticed on the valves was that there is a really small metallic part at the end of the valve which moves inwards and outwards. It can be screwed tight so it doesn't move. Should I keep it locked down?

No tubes liquids: As I mentioned, the operation of popping the wheels on the rims was really difficult, so I'd like to install Stans' liquids through the valves and with an injector. I'm not sure if I have to replace the valves or can I disassemble the ones I have? Other thing I don't know is that will the liquids begin to set with in the tire when you haven't ridden in a while?

Greases and anti-siezes: Which parts should I lubricate when assembling the bike. Anti-sieze to bottom bracket, pedals, cranks, stem bolts, seat post and saddle bolts? Grease to axles, chain and sprockets? Which lubricants to use? Park tools have an Anti-sieze and a Polylube 1000 grease. Should those two be enough to go over the bike or do I need something else or more? Something for the chains perhaps?

Greer_

The other thing I noticed on the valves was that there is a really small metallic part at the end of the valve which moves inwards and outwards. It can be screwed tight so it doesn't move. Should I keep it locked down?

Is this on the presta valve? If yes, you unscrew it to pump air into it and screw it tight to stop air from escaping. When unscrewed, if you press it down air can escape. Or else it may be a removable core for putting sealant in?

A look on park tools and in the FAQs may answer your other questions

benpinnick

I thought I would jump in as my bro-in-law has asked me to spec him up a bike for a £1500 ish budget. This is what I came up with:

on-one carbon 456 with the revelations (750)
Full XT Groupo (300)
XT Brakes (130)
Rotors (40)
Hope Hoops on Crests (300)
OK stem and Seatpost (60)
Easton XC90 CNT Carbon Bars (72)
Kenda SB8s (60)
Charge Spoon Saddle (20)

As you'll have £900 odd spare, then getting the revs and frame seperately and getting world cup revs, getting some lighter wheels, or maybe the same but with DT Revs versus comps on the hoops, plus selling on some of the unwanted bits to fund some XTR upgrades (I would personally go for cranks and rr mech) then you'd end up with a bike at around 22.5lbs, and change in your pocket, and its all brand new, so you can sell the bits you have already to pay for some gratuitous colour matched alloy gubbins. If you want really light then the new hope hoops stupid light wheels would take you under 22lbs and still give you change from your £2500.

Tactica

I'm sure you could achieve 22 lbs with a lot smaller budget than I have, yes. I still wanted to select components that I can be happy with for a long time and not ponder about whether I should upgrade tis or dat. I chose to stay away from XTR crankset and rear casette mainly because they are parts that wear down and I could not see enough reason to save weight with them for the extra hundreds they would have cost.

If I hadn't had the Avid brakes I think I would have just bought the whole XTR groupset though.

benpinnick

Yeah sorry, I didnt see page two so jumped in a little late!

Tactica

benpinnick wrote:

Yeah sorry, I didnt see page two so jumped in a little late!

No worries, your points are still valid.

benpinnick

Merlin have the XTR double for £260 at the moment... looks nice on my blur

Tactica

Don't tempt me! I have the parts ordered already!

variflex

You have forgotten the all important reverb seatpost. I didnt get one on my c456 and now regretting it. Will be ordering one from on-one very soon

Tactica

I did have a look at dropper posts, but decided to see what this year brings. They seemed to still have some problems.

Anyway, have a look at the build at viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12844071

Tactica

As a side note, I'm already researching for a full suss frame On-One 456 was a cheap transfer frame for my budget now and I didn't have to strip my old bike for it.