Tektro bleed disaster! *HELP PLS*
iRaves
Posts: 50
Hi guys, I am new here and newish to MTB's.
I have a 2011 GT Avalanche with Tektro Auriga comp hydro disc brakes but I have an issue that you could hopefully advise me on.
I have the reservoir on my lever. It has 3 screws. 2 2.5 mm allen and a T-15.
I have tried to bleed my system through, using the syringe and pipes. 1 syringe on the nipple on the calliper and a pipe in the T-15 hole on the reservoir. I loosened the nipple and fed through the oil making sure all air is out of it. Tapping the caliber, pipes and reservoir the whole time to dislodge any bubbles. In the end all bubbles stopped and I ran 30ml of oil through without a single bubble so I nipped up the nipple on the caliber and put the T-15 back in then I replaced my old pads with new and tested them.
The lever still feels spongey. I have repeated this process about 10 times and the same every time.
I now have noticed that on of the allen bolts on the reservoir is rounded off can't get that undone to try to bleed it via the whole reservoir.
BUT now I noticed that when I pump my brake lever oil drips out from underneath the rounded Allen bolt. This must be my issue. I can't remove the screw to replace and can't afford a whole new lever really.
I have got some intant gasket stuff that I have spread across the screw head and let dry and then repeated this process to build a few layers up. But when I pump the break oil seeps through the gasket.
I think the pressure might be too much or it may not be fully dry.
Is there anything you can think of that I can try?
Any help is very much appreciated
Thanks
I have a 2011 GT Avalanche with Tektro Auriga comp hydro disc brakes but I have an issue that you could hopefully advise me on.
I have the reservoir on my lever. It has 3 screws. 2 2.5 mm allen and a T-15.
I have tried to bleed my system through, using the syringe and pipes. 1 syringe on the nipple on the calliper and a pipe in the T-15 hole on the reservoir. I loosened the nipple and fed through the oil making sure all air is out of it. Tapping the caliber, pipes and reservoir the whole time to dislodge any bubbles. In the end all bubbles stopped and I ran 30ml of oil through without a single bubble so I nipped up the nipple on the caliber and put the T-15 back in then I replaced my old pads with new and tested them.
The lever still feels spongey. I have repeated this process about 10 times and the same every time.
I now have noticed that on of the allen bolts on the reservoir is rounded off can't get that undone to try to bleed it via the whole reservoir.
BUT now I noticed that when I pump my brake lever oil drips out from underneath the rounded Allen bolt. This must be my issue. I can't remove the screw to replace and can't afford a whole new lever really.
I have got some intant gasket stuff that I have spread across the screw head and let dry and then repeated this process to build a few layers up. But when I pump the break oil seeps through the gasket.
I think the pressure might be too much or it may not be fully dry.
Is there anything you can think of that I can try?
Any help is very much appreciated
Thanks
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Comments
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dont buy Tekro0
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I didn't buy them. They came on my bike.
Anyone have any ideas? I left it to dry over night and it's still coming through0 -
Have you got any imperial allen keys? You could try wedging the similar size allen key (7/64")in the rounded allen screw as this should be slightly bigger and may turn the screw.0
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Probably just needs a new bleed screw. Without sounding like an unsympathetic git. It seems you don't really know what you are doing and are likely to do more harm than good. Get someone on it who knows what they are doing, or take it to your LBS and let them sort it before you mess it up beyond repair.0
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Any news on this? Did you manage?0
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Not managed to do anything about it. Can't find anywhere I can purchase a bleed screw.
It's only slightly leaking now. I managed to get some instant gasket around the screw head, which is sealing it, but I think the pressure is too much and it just seems to seep out slightly. I can't see it leak but the whole res around the screw feels greasy after use even if it's been wiped down with alcohol.
I don't really know what I am doing but I am an engineer by trade and ALWAYS repair my car regardless I it's issue myself so I am more than compitent in doing this repair myself without taking it to my bike shop
I just watch YouTube video after video until I know what I am to do.
It's just the damn tektro screw was of extreme poor quality so rounded very easy
If anyone would know where I could purchase a new screw from I would be eternally grateful!
Thanks for the help and input so far!0 -
can you get it with mole grips? file/hacksaw/dremel a slot across to use a screw driver. bond an allen key in with epoxy and leave to dry?--
Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails0 -
I've got a Tektro Auriga Comp and those tiny screws that hold the cylinder shut are rubbish. I bought mine 2nd hand and one had been rounded off when I got it.
As andrewjoseph said, a quick blast with a Lidl imitation dremel gave me a slotted screwdriver hole which did the trick. I did look into getting a replacement screw but actually it's not something I generally need to remove (the bleed screw's OK) so haven't bothered.0 -
Thanks
Yeah that's the plan. I am attempting to source a screw before I start messin around with it.
My plan was to dremel a grove and use a flat head to get it out.
I have bought a screw from ukbikestore, but I realised that it was the res hole screw I had bought. So I rang them and they was very good and said they will source me one from somewhere. So god know when I will get that lol
Could do with finding one elsewhere as I need it sorting before weekend really0 -
davenice wrote:I've got a Tektro Auriga Comp and those tiny screws that hold the cylinder shut are rubbish. I bought mine 2nd hand and one had been rounded off when I got it.
As andrewjoseph said, a quick blast with a Lidl imitation dremel gave me a slotted screwdriver hole which did the trick. I did look into getting a replacement screw but actually it's not something I generally need to remove (the bleed screw's OK) so haven't bothered.
Thanks man. I did that. Replaced the screw and re bled. Everything seemed fine, the brake didn't feel overly responsive like it used to feel. But I went with it any way, and then it happened. On a trail on Sunday and the damned thing started leaking out of the hole. Guessing the thread is knackered.
Going to have to buy a new brake unit. Makes life easier.
I was wondering do I HAVE to buy another exact brake?
I have seen a shim deore on CRC for £50 calliper and lever.0 -
iRaves wrote:...
I was wondering do I HAVE to buy another exact brake?
I have seen a shim deore on CRC for £50 calliper and lever.
you can mix and match, the rotor doesn't care what brakes and vice versa, as long as the rotor will actually fit in the calliper (should be no problem).--
Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails0 -
Thanks mate.
I will keep you all posted with what happens!!0