converting 3x8 to 1x10

mattwood
mattwood Posts: 148
edited March 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi all,

I am new on here so please be gentle!

I am currently revamping my old GIANT MTB as the forks gave out and it needs a lick of paint. As I have now stripped it down, I was wondering what I would need to do to convert it from a 3x8 gear arrangement to a 1x10 (or even a 1x9/8), as I feel I can afford to lose the front mech, shifter and extra chainrings.

I know I will at least need a new rear derallieur, cassette, chain and shifter, cranks and chainring but am not sire if I will need anything else? I am also open to suggestion on which chainset/crankset to look at but am trying to keep costs lowish.

Unfortunately I am only just getting into the mechanical side of things, but my bro is quite handy at these things, I just want to do my own leg-work to help out as much as possible!

Thanks.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    wheels should be fine.

    as to the rest what is usable from your old kit?

    cranks are usable. fit ring of choice. a device of some type will be good to keep the chain on.

    and the rest is up to you.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If you go 1x8, you don't need to buy anything if you use the front mech as a chainguide

    If you go 1x9 you'll need a new RH shifter, chain (9sp) and cassette as well as optional chainguide, your current rear mech (if OK) will work fine.

    If you go 1x10 you'll need shifter, chain (10sp) and cassette as well as new rear mech (UNLESS you use a road flat barred 10sp shifter, use an MTB one and it's new rear mech) as well as option of chainguide.

    So how much do you have to spend, how good is your current rear mech?

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • mattwood
    mattwood Posts: 148
    The current rear mech should be fine after a clean down - the cranks are probably OK though the chainrings are well worn. The bike will need a new chain and cassette anyways and the other bits I was going to look for 2nd hand. 1x8 and 1x9 appeal to me but how does the range of available gears compare to the 1x10? I was mainly looking at the 1x10 to maximise the range available?

    Everything from my old kit is useable but it is over 10 years old and thought if I can pick up some clearance parts from CRC or similar then it might be worthwhile?
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Range is cassette dependent, not number of gears (cogs).
  • mattwood
    mattwood Posts: 148
    Ah cool! So if I was to use my 8 speed gear and do a 1x8 that may be a better idea? As the drivetrain is old deore spec (except the crankset - which is suntour)? What cassettes should I be lookin at to keep the best range?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Widest 8 speed cassette is 11-32, widest 9 is 11-34 (giving you an extra 1/2 a gear by comparison to the 8) while widest 10 is 11-36 giving you a full extra gear over 1x8 (gears being spaced approx 10% apart on an MTB as a rough guide).

    Most people get on fine with a 1x9 using a 32, 34 or 36 chainwheel depending on where you ride, 9 speed are common as used parts, 10 much less so and prices reflect this.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • ZMC886
    ZMC886 Posts: 10
    I already run 1x9 with a bash and but I have a Blackspire Stinger, which is cheap way of keeping the chain on, but not 100% reliable as the chain can fall off the top.

    Anyone know a reasonably priced very reliable BB type, 32 tooth bash, type single speed chain guide. The MRP XO looks good, but expensive.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If you're running a bash and a stinger then all you need is an n-gear jumpstop to stop the chain coming off on the inside at the top.

    http://www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?prod=chng-js

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • mattwood
    mattwood Posts: 148
    just to update this a bit,

    I think its more worth my while going to a 1x8 set up using my old kit as it seems in decent enuogh condition. Then my only expenditure on the bike will be forks and service items (as per the original plan)

    Thanks for all your help.
  • Rushmore
    Rushmore Posts: 674
    Just be mindfull that alot of Suntour chain sets are riveted together not bolted.. Which means you might need to buy a new chain set if you want to do this... Although I don't really know why you would want to make things harder for yourself by having less gears?
    Always remember.... Wherever you go, there you are.

    Ghost AMR 7500 2012
    De Rosa R838
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Weighs less, costs less, those gears may well be sufficient. I really like having a single ring, don't find it limiting. YMMV
  • mattwood
    mattwood Posts: 148
    Well, the reason behind it is that a) I'm reasonably fit and can probably handle it but mainly b) My front shifter is a bit dodgy and rather than replacing the shifter, I thought I would somply ditch it and the other bits to make it a 1xn arrangement. That way I don't need to carry the extra weight and will get away with simpler maintainence?

    As for the suntour chainset, if it is riveted (or even if it isnt), it would benefit from being changed anyway!

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