Got me some Dry Lube today......roll on the Spring !!

Ezy Rider
Ezy Rider Posts: 415
edited March 2012 in Road beginners
sick of winter ,using wet lube and the amount of dirt that gets engrained onto your chain. halfords selling an eco friendly dry lube at £6.99 for 100ml. degreased the chain this morning and dry lubed it, shining like a new pin now :D

anybody else put the wet lube away and going back to dry ?

and before somebody says it, the sticker on the bottle is just lovely :lol:

Comments

  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    Never use whatever that is...
    Rock n Roll red or gold for me..it's class stuff whatever the season.
    Chain is always shiny and new looking!
  • ShutUpLegs
    ShutUpLegs Posts: 3,522
    Just stocked up on some GT85, Perfect!
  • giant_man
    giant_man Posts: 6,878
    JGSI wrote:
    Never use whatever that is...
    Rock n Roll red or gold for me..it's class stuff whatever the season.
    Chain is always shiny and new looking!
    Yeah good stuff but I find you have to use quite a lot of it every time
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    At least your ride buddies will know where you are from your squeaky drivetrain - dry lubes are pretty hopeless IME, having to reapply frequently
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • Ezy Rider
    Ezy Rider Posts: 415
    other side of the coin is wet lubed chain caked in dirt after every ride. the dirt leads to friction which leads to rear cassette wear. having to re-apply dry lube every couple of days aint that big a hardship to me compared to filthy chain and faster cassette wear.
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    giant man wrote:
    JGSI wrote:
    Never use whatever that is...
    Rock n Roll red or gold for me..it's class stuff whatever the season.
    Chain is always shiny and new looking!
    Yeah good stuff but I find you have to use quite a lot of it every time

    Of course... but the big bottle still lasts a long time.

    GT85 is after shave for the bike..... that and 03one.. and it's race time :)
  • giant_man
    giant_man Posts: 6,878
    I also have some Chain L No 5 which I haven't used yet, and sometime I prefer Pedros SynLube too FWIW.
  • Ezy Rider
    Ezy Rider Posts: 415
    dirty-bicycle-chain.jpg


    WET LUBE
  • ShutUpLegs
    ShutUpLegs Posts: 3,522
    Ezy Rider wrote:
    dirty-bicycle-chain.jpg


    WET LUBE

    If you look carefully can you read those decals on the crank arms?
  • EarlyGo
    EarlyGo Posts: 281
    Can't read the decals 'cos they're from some dodgy bloke on e-bay ... doh!

    Cheers. EarlyGo
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Dry Lube is a marketing scam IMO - because you have to apply it both before, mid and after ride if you want to keep a squeak-free drivetrain. Much prefer a wet lube that sticks inside the rollers - wipe off the excess after lubing and also give the chain a wipe with GT85-soaked rag after ride. Most problems people have with wet lube is their failure to wipe-off the excess.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • CakeLovinBeast
    CakeLovinBeast Posts: 312
    Monty Dog wrote:
    Dry Lube is a marketing scam IMO - because you have to apply it both before, mid and after ride if you want to keep a squeak-free drivetrain. Much prefer a wet lube that sticks inside the rollers - wipe off the excess after lubing and also give the chain a wipe with GT85-soaked rag after ride. Most problems people have with wet lube is their failure to wipe-off the excess.
    This.
    This.
    One hundred times this.
    Twitter: @FunkyMrMagic
  • ShutUpLegs
    ShutUpLegs Posts: 3,522
    Monty Dog wrote:
    Most problems people have with wet lube is their failure to wipe-off the excess.

    Just give it a quick wipe on the curtains
  • rake
    rake Posts: 3,204
    wet oil may attract a little dirt but not bad of its wiped. the upside though is that it lubricates yhe chain.
    dry lube was invented by a marketing man :wink:
  • MattC59
    MattC59 Posts: 5,408
    Here endeth the discussion, Rake has spoken.
    Science adjusts it’s beliefs based on what’s observed.
    Faith is the denial of observation so that Belief can be preserved
  • Paul E
    Paul E Posts: 2,052
    Ezy Rider wrote:
    other side of the coin is wet lubed chain caked in dirt after every ride. the dirt leads to friction which leads to rear cassette wear. having to re-apply dry lube every couple of days aint that big a hardship to me compared to filthy chain and faster cassette wear.

    I have been putting it on my front cassette too, damn does that mean I am getting front wear too!

    That photo you posted about wet lube, sorry that's cr@p unless that's been ridden down a mud infested unpaved country lane.

    Are you for real or some feeble attempt at a comedy character??
  • thescouselander
    thescouselander Posts: 549
    I tried finish line dry lube and I thought it actually caked up worse than the wet lube - especially when they encourage you to put so much on. The thing with wet lube it to use it sparingly, if you only lube the rollers that stops the chain picking up too much rubbish.
  • nferrar
    nferrar Posts: 2,511
    The White Lightening clean ride lube is way better than any wet lube I've tried in dry conditions. It holds wells (I typically top it up every 150 miles or so) and doesn't attract lots of road grit that turns into a grinding paste.
  • MattC59
    MattC59 Posts: 5,408
    All these comments about different types (wet or dry) lubes being crap can be addressed simply by applying the lube correctly. It doesn't matter what type you use, if you apply it incorrectly you're going to have issues, whether they are a black gunked up chain or a dry chain.

    I use Finishline XC ('cause that's what I've got and it's the same as Finishline Wet) in the winter and Finishline Krytech in the summer. I've never had any issues with either. But that's probably because I'm ace :mrgreen:
    Science adjusts it’s beliefs based on what’s observed.
    Faith is the denial of observation so that Belief can be preserved
  • thegreatdivide
    thegreatdivide Posts: 5,803
    I'm trying out Progold ProLink this year.
  • rpd_steve
    rpd_steve Posts: 361
    Just to get some fuel on the fire...

    -WD40
    -GT85
    -Chainsaw oil
    -Used engine oil....

    Discuss...

    (Ps. I use finish line dry lube and wet, but wanted a laugh!)
  • suzyb
    suzyb Posts: 3,449
    How do you know when you're not wiping of the lube and not just the excess.

    I know stupid question but when I lube my chain I feel if I don't wipe it it ends up covered in gunk after one ride but when I do it sounds like it's not been lubed at all.
    Whippet
  • wishitwasallflat
    wishitwasallflat Posts: 2,927
    suzyb wrote:
    How do you know when you're not wiping of the lube and not just the excess.

    When you wipe the chain you are wiping off lube that is sitting on the outside surfaces and it's not doing any good there (other than I suppose forming a film against moisture but the fact it also acts as a dirt trap seems to me to negate that as any benefit). The only lube that matters/is doing anything really is the stuff that gets between the moving surfaces and you can't wipe there as they are tiny on a chain and largely lie inside the workings. I subscribe to the - lube each individual link only at the moving/contact points, lube from the inside surface and let it run down (hopefuly) onto the contact surfaces, spin the cranks a few times, let it sit for a while then wipe down School of Chain cleaning. That is apart from when I clean it, take it off, dry it in the oven and then sit and lube each contact point sitting at the dining room table (takes 10 minutes and feels very thourough!).

    PS - If it still sounds like it's not lubed after lubing - are you sure you are getting the lube down into the contact points between the moving surfaces?
  • luv_shimano
    luv_shimano Posts: 25
    The only time I've ever experienced dry lube is when buying a new bike. They always put the darn stuff on from new.

    The amount of muck which seems to acumalate/squeaky drive train after only a couple of rides in decent weather says it all for me.

    I also don't buy into using different oils in different seasons. I buy a decent medium thick oil for all year riding, yes it gets muckier in the winter but I don't see how using a thicker oil would make any difference and guard against mud and whatnot.
  • suzyb
    suzyb Posts: 3,449
    wishitwasallflat wrote:
    suzyb wrote:
    How do you know when you're not wiping of the lube and not just the excess.

    When you wipe the chain you are wiping off lube that is sitting on the outside surfaces and it's not doing any good there (other than I suppose forming a film against moisture but the fact it also acts as a dirt trap seems to me to negate that as any benefit). The only lube that matters/is doing anything really is the stuff that gets between the moving surfaces and you can't wipe there as they are tiny on a chain and largely lie inside the workings. I subscribe to the - lube each individual link only at the moving/contact points, lube from the inside surface and let it run down (hopefuly) onto the contact surfaces, spin the cranks a few times, let it sit for a while then wipe down School of Chain cleaning. That is apart from when I clean it, take it off, dry it in the oven and then sit and lube each contact point sitting at the dining room table (takes 10 minutes and feels very thourough!).

    PS - If it still sounds like it's not lubed after lubing - are you sure you are getting the lube down into the contact points between the moving surfaces?
    I did try was leaving it for a few hours to let the lube run down into the links but don't think it really worked. Although it could be I'm just not getting the dirt out.
    Whippet
  • wishitwasallflat
    wishitwasallflat Posts: 2,927
    suzyb wrote:
    I did try was leaving it for a few hours to let the lube run down into the links but don't think it really worked. Although it could be I'm just not getting the dirt out.

    Mmm ... not sure what the prob could be - when I do mine I clean it on the bike with a chain cleaning machine (bikehut I must confess!) and degreaser, rinse it off and then try to let it dry and then just drip the lube onto the contact parts and it seems to work fine - smooth and quite. Occaisonally I will take it off after cleaning, dry it in the oven and then I just sit and drip the lube onto the moving part and then work each link around a few times and wipe off the excess - time consuming but strangely therapeutic and satisfying
  • suzyb
    suzyb Posts: 3,449
    I use a chain cleaner as well although atm it needs a new sponge. I sometimes takes the chain off as well and soak in degreaser whilst I clean the rest of the drivetrain.

    Neither method seems to get it completely clean as running a cloth over it still comes back gunky. ofc maybe I'm just being too picky,
    Whippet
  • wishitwasallflat
    wishitwasallflat Posts: 2,927
    suzyb wrote:
    I use a chain cleaner as well although atm it needs a new sponge. I sometimes takes the chain off as well and soak in degreaser whilst I clean the rest of the drivetrain.

    Neither method seems to get it completely clean as running a cloth over it still comes back gunky. ofc maybe I'm just being too picky,


    Mine is always gunky as well after its cleaned if I wipe it - seems to be the way of it :? - I just wipe it until I feel the OCD doctors closing in on me, and aim for it being quiet when riding and hope that's enough :D
  • RDB66
    RDB66 Posts: 492
    Ive just ordered some White Lightning Clean...gets very good reviews, so looking forward to trying it.
    Anyone else using it ?

    RichB.
    A Brother of the Wheel. http://www.boxfordbikeclub.co.uk

    09 Canyon Ultimate CF for the Road.
    2011 Carbon Spesh Stumpy FSR.
  • joshr96
    joshr96 Posts: 153
    What ever you use dont try WD40. It kinda goes without saying now though.
    Carrera TDF 2011 Limited Edition.
    Crossbow Hybrid
    Boardman AiR 9.8 one day..

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