Things to Check on MTB Pickup

vnagappa
vnagappa Posts: 5
edited February 2012 in MTB buying advice
Hi Guys

Picking up my MTB tomorrow from an Evans store. Was hoping to get some advice on what to check for when picking it up....are there some common things to look out for?

Sorry if it sounds like a newbey question.

Thanks in advance.

Comments

  • If it's a new bike (which it sounds like it is) there shouldn't be too much to worry about.

    If you're riding it away, just make sure all bolts etc are done up properly, tyres are pumped up, and fork/shock are set up right.
  • tenfoot
    tenfoot Posts: 226
    Evans will set your forks/shock up for you. The Lakeside branch was happy to do mine.
  • bluechair84
    bluechair84 Posts: 4,352
    Check all bolts as above. Make sure the bolts holding the non driveside crank are done up tight. If they come loose you'll knacker the crank (I only mention this as I forgot to tighten up mine on the new build and spun the crank off the axle mid ride ballsing up the threads. I apllyed some MTFU to the bolts so it'll never come off now, but the splines are shagged). Rotate bars to personal preference.
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    edited February 2012
    In terms of checking it's working when you leave the shop.

    Spin through the gears, or get them to hold the bike up, with the back wheel off the ground, and do it for you. To make sure that the gears are set up, althought they'll inevitably need a tweak after a while as the cables stretch.

    Make sure both brakes (assuming they're hydraulic) work. The lever should be firm, not pull back to the bar and you should not (:oops:) be able to turn the wheel with the brakes on.

    See if the wheels can be wobbled side to side. If the hubs are sound then the wheel shouldn't wobble, though there may be some flex in the spokes/rims. Give the wheels a spin to make sure they're true.

    Hold the front brake on and push the bike back and forwards while you've got your hand around the top of the top tube, where the steerer goes up into the headset spacers. You shouldn't be able to feel any movement, if you can the headset may be loose.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    bails87 wrote:
    Make sure both brakes (assuming they're hydraulic) work. The lever should be firm, not pull back to the bar and you should not be able to turn the wheel with the brakes on.
    FTFY
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • bluechair84
    bluechair84 Posts: 4,352
    cooldad wrote:
    bails87 wrote:
    Make sure both brakes (assuming they're hydraulic) work. The lever should be firm, not pull back to the bar and you should not be able to turn the wheel with the brakes on.
    FTFY

    It doesn't matter if V-brakes don't work, there's very little difference :D
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    cooldad wrote:
    bails87 wrote:
    Make sure both brakes (assuming they're hydraulic) work. The lever should be firm, not pull back to the bar and you should not be able to turn the wheel with the brakes on.
    FTFY
    :lol: Oops! Now editted!
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."