In a pickle...

arussiansniper
arussiansniper Posts: 36
edited March 2012 in MTB buying advice
Hi guys!

I've always enjoyed getting out on my bike but recently i've become a little obsessed. I just can't get enough to be honest and i've even manged to get my missus' to take an interest! :D

I've had my GT Avalanche 3.0 Disc for about 3 years now and as I've moved a little further away from work i think it's about time i upgraded. My ride to work is pretty much 50/50 road and off road. I work on a Golf Course and absolutely love the last blast through the woods to get there. I don't plan to do any sort of riding in particular, just the same as i've done for the last few years, a bit of absolutely everything...

I've been looking at a couple of bikes and i would love to hear some of your opinions. I am going to buy from Sunset MTB as i've bought loads from them and i'm sticking to what i know best.

The two bikes i've been looking at- Orange Crush 2011 and the Kona Tanuki 2012.
You can see what's happening here, hardtail or full sus, fork travel......i just don't bloody know!

If anybody wants to have a look on their website and throw any other bikes into the mix feel free. I'm looking at spending £1800 top end really. I'm 6 foot and have a 32'' inside leg!

Thanks in advance guys!

James
Cannondale SL1 2012

'As far back as I can remember, I've always wanted to be a gangster' - Henry Hill

Comments

  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    If the GT has served you well, then a similar sort of bike would suffice ie a hardtail, 100-120mm of travel. Obviously at this price you are going to get a very good spec and lighter weight.

    Full sus, well is the ultimate question! Will be heavier and less well specced (on average) - can you test any out? They can vary substantially!
  • Briggo
    Briggo Posts: 3,537
    The orange crush at £1300 isn't bad for the spec, it is a long travel hardtail though, your GT is a 100mm machine and like SS said if you're getting on with it fine you could stick to something similar.

    Something like a Canyon AL 8 (shade under £1300)
  • Would it make a big difference going from 100 to 140? If my missus does get into it then hopefully we'll be able to try a few trails out etc so i'm sort of thinking it would come in handy having that bit more travel?!

    I've tried a couple of different bikes out and there's never been a bike that i've particularly disliked. To be honest i feel more comfotable on a frame like the Crush 2011 than the frame on my GT. I love the slightly sloped top tube and feel alot more in control, especially on my days off ragging it through the woods.

    Thanks for your input guys, really appreciate it.

    James
    Cannondale SL1 2012

    'As far back as I can remember, I've always wanted to be a gangster' - Henry Hill
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The actual fork travel isn't that imortant to how a bike feels, its the geometry that counts....

    If I hade £1500 to spend, this would be my first choice!
    http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/PBOOWHIPX9/ ... plete_bike

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Briggo
    Briggo Posts: 3,537
    The actual fork travel isn't that imortant to how a bike feels, its the geometry that counts....

    If I hade £1500 to spend, this would be my first choice!
    http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/PBOOWHIPX9/ ... plete_bike

    Simon

    Yeah but its the fork travel that effects the geometry, i.e. more travel the slacker it becomes, or when compressed more steep (depending on the original geometry fully compressed could make it steeper than the 100mm bike)
  • bluechair84
    bluechair84 Posts: 4,352
    Briggo wrote:
    The actual fork travel isn't that imortant to how a bike feels, its the geometry that counts....

    If I hade £1500 to spend, this would be my first choice!
    http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/PBOOWHIPX9/ ... plete_bike

    Simon

    Yeah but its the fork travel that effects the geometry, i.e. more travel the slacker it becomes, or when compressed more steep (depending on the original geometry fully compressed could make it steeper than the 100mm bike)

    Only if you change fork on the same bike, but he's looking at changing bikes so he can have what ever geometry he likes, and what ever travel he likes, if he can find a company that makes it. No reason why he couldn't have Monster Ts and a 71deg head angle :shock:
  • I've been looking on Google but I'm struggling to understand some of the terms used. I'm just wondering if the forks on the Crush (Fork Fox 32 Float RL 140mm Tapered Steerer) can be locked to suit me? On my GT there is a simple speed lock thing so I can set it where I want it. Can I do this on the Orange forks?

    Thanks guys, much appreciated!
    Cannondale SL1 2012

    'As far back as I can remember, I've always wanted to be a gangster' - Henry Hill
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    RL stands for Rebound and Lockout - so quick answer is yes ;-)

    Take a look at this too:

    http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/product ... ad-zero-11