Threaded Headset Problem

BrianSnail
BrianSnail Posts: 17
edited February 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
I have a problem with the headset bearings of my approx 17 year old Ridgeback MTB coming loose after a few miles of riding. I have twice replaced the bearings, the top bearings having the adustable threaded race, then the locking washer, then the locking ring on the top. I set the adjustable threaded race to "no play" then tighten the locking ring. Everything seems to be working really good and I rode the bike for 3 days (50 miles) with no loosening. On the 4th day I rode 25 miles after which the whole headset was very loose. This happens time after time after time - obviously something is not right even though I have religiously assembled stage by stage as per the Park Tool book! any advice greatly appreciated.

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Mark the lockring and main upper race nut with some tipex, odds on they are undoing, Just do the lockring up tighter down onto the upper race.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    The only thing that holds a threaded headset together is the friction between the 2 lock nuts at the top. You should over tighten the bottom one so the headset is tight and won't turn smoothly, then tighten the top one down till its snug with the bottom half, then back the bottom one off to lock it to the top one (this will loosen off the load on the bearings so its not over-tight any more). This way you can get far tighter a join between the two, any should keep you good for the long term. Remember to hold the top lock nut still while you back off the bottom one.

    You'll likely need to do this a few times to get the load on the bearings just right. Its trial and error I am afraid.
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Eh???

    Tighten the first one down to the right bearing preload, hold it with one spanner and then moose the locknut down....

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • mrmonkfinger
    mrmonkfinger Posts: 1,452
    it sounds about as much fun as getting cup/cone bearings set up right
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  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    mrmonkfinger wrote:
    it sounds about as much fun as getting cup/cone bearings set up right
    It's the same idea really, but takes a second or two.
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  • BrianSnail
    BrianSnail Posts: 17
    Thanks guys - I have been tightening to no play then tightening the top locking nut to the lower one. I'll try it the other way round and see what happens - i'll also try to get it tighter. Is there any mileage in using Locktite on the threads (used to use this a lot on motorcycles in the old days).
    Again thanks for the feedback.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    You should have the top race that goes against the bearings, then a washer then the locknut.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    The Beginner wrote:
    Eh???

    Tighten the first one down to the right bearing preload, hold it with one spanner and then moose the locknut down....

    Simon

    Doesn't work nearly as well as the other way round.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.

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