superstar componants??
stanny_uk
Posts: 147
Looking at upgrading from resin only discs. To super star full floaters so i can use sintered pads at cannock. Any body have experiance of super star discs and pads???
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Just change the pads. Presumably you have Shimano rotors? Ignore the resin only warning. Even if they wear out fractionally quicker, does it matter. And I don't think they do - current ones are 3 years old, been through plenty of pads and still fine.
Superstar pads are good, floating rotors are a waste of time, and can cause more problems than they supposedly solve.I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
Save weight and just get some normal discs. There is absolutely no need for floating rotors at cannock (or almost anywhere in the UK for that matter).
Superstar pads are great though, superb value. The sintered ones can be a little thicker than OEM (specifically with Avid brakes), and I personally prefer the kevlar ones, but horses for courses.0 -
CWNT
My new bike has Avid Elixir 3's on it. I'm usually a fan of the SS sintered pads. You say they are thicker. Do they still work ok with Avids?
Cheers
Andy0 -
I always struggled a little with SS sintered pads on my old Juicy carbons, as CWNT says, they are a little thicker. After a few miles the howling stops
My bro has the floating rotors with SS pads, and he seemed to like them (bike tart - purely cosmetic), but as above, they aren't really needed unless you want to colour match0 -
Not had problems with SS sintered on my elixir cr's, or my juicy 3'3 and 5's.0
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FWIW I'm a huge fan of superstar's kevlar pads- almost all the durability of sintered in most conditions, but with better performance. (they don't like gritty mud, and they make more noise in the cold, but otherwise mint).
Personally I'd just upgrade the pads, the rotors are only resin-only because they're made to a lower standard and will wear faster. But not a problem in the short term.
Floating rotors are just shiny things for magpiesUncompromising extremist0 -
Thanks for the reassurance guys. (Sorry about the thread hi-jack!)0
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Northwind wrote:FWIW I'm a huge fan of superstar's kevlar pads- almost all the durability of sintered in most conditions, but with better performance. (they don't like gritty mud, and they make more noise in the cold, but otherwise mint).
Personally I'd just upgrade the pads, the rotors are only resin-only because they're made to a lower standard and will wear faster. But not a problem in the short term.
Floating rotors are just shiny things for magpies
What are the SSC Kevlar like compared to the SSC organic? More or less powerful?0 -
Bit less powerful as you'd expect, and I'd say a wee bit less consistent too. But much longer lasting- I've only had a couple of sets of the organics and they were very good but they didn't stand up well to iffy conditions. Might be better somewhere it rains less :roll:Uncompromising extremist0
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Northwind wrote:Bit less powerful as you'd expect, and I'd say a wee bit less consistent too. But much longer lasting- I've only had a couple of sets of the organics and they were very good but they didn't stand up well to iffy conditions. Might be better somewhere it rains less :roll:
So not the UK then, might try the kevlar in my front brake.0 -
gonna go with advice and buy some sintered for now on std discs.. i'm a bit of an upgrade addict so hopefully it'll wreck em to give me excuse to ask mrs for XT bakes all round!!! lol0
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Northwind wrote:Bit less powerful as you'd expect, and I'd say a wee bit less consistent too. But much longer lasting- I've only had a couple of sets of the organics and they were very good but they didn't stand up well to iffy conditions. Might be better somewhere it rains less :roll:
Thanks. I'll give the Kevlar a go once the 4 sets of organic I've just got wear out...shouldn't be long then.0 -
Keep the organics for when the weather drys out. I know in the north west that might mean they will have decomposed first but they are a waste of space in the wet. Went through a set in about 15 miles from brand new to on the metal once.Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap0
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stubs wrote:Keep the organics for when the weather drys out. I know in the north west that might mean they will have decomposed first but they are a waste of space in the wet. Went through a set in about 15 miles from brand new to on the metal once.
You must be new to this country, welcome to the uk.0 -
Over the xmas period, did about 4 / 5 outings around gisburn, llandegla, peaks and it killed my new sets of kevlars front and rear.
Power was mildly better than sintered, but they just wore far too quickly for my liking.0 -
I rate the kevlar ones, find they last for ages, had the same set in since last April, with no discernible wear.
I did however do this to a set in 4 hours:
The piston doesn't stop you that well I can assure you. Also destroyed 2 Hope floating rotors and needed a full caliper rebuild on my XX brakes, never were the same again!0 -
Hahahahahahaha, thay's epic!
I've worn a set down to the point where its disintegrated the clip, but never where it's eaten the entire backing plate too.
Did it kill the pistons too?0 -
Ooooooooooh yes! Completely destroyed one of the pistons, and as I say they got so worn I was braking on the rivets of the floating rotors, so they (Hope Pro ones) got destroyed too. Didn't even win - some bugger (who had Shimano brakes with bags of clearance and negligible pad wear) overtook me about 20 minutes before the end. Boo-hiss.0
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ah yes, didn't see the bottom part of your post 1st time round.0
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Good grief njee20! When there's sparks coming off the discs it's time to change the padsstubs wrote:Keep the organics for when the weather drys out. I know in the north west that might mean they will have decomposed first but they are a waste of space in the wet. Went through a set in about 15 miles from brand new to on the metal once.
I've considered doing that so may get some kevlar pads and save the organics for the week in May when it's nice, also thinking of getting a 200mm rotor for the front because I'm still a lard arse and want to smash my face into a rock when I panic brake...also big discs look cool innit0 -
Good grief njee20! When there's sparks coming off the discs it's time to change the pads
Sadly there was nothing as cool!
I must say I've never really found a difference in longevity of any of their pads - they seem to last for ages and then disappear in a particularly bad ride.0 -
bails87 wrote:I also wrecked a set of Kevlar pads in two rides, at Cwm CArn and then Cannock Chase, which is fairly gritty.
Not bedded in right. I meant to mention this earlier because it's important with the kevlars... They're unusual because they make good power without being properly bedded in. But they do still need the same bedding in treatment as any other pad, because otherwise they wear ridiculously fast. Bit of a quirk- most pads won't let that happen since they feel rubbish til they're bedded in.
(DodgeT not so sure about, some peaks areas are famous for destroying pads)Uncompromising extremist0 -
I purchased some Kevlar ones from them as a replacment for my Shimano ones on my last bike. They just wouldnt bed in or work as good, was sorley dissapointed. Went out and bought some new Shimano ones at twice the costCanyon Nerve XC 7.0 Deep Black Ano - Silver, Rock Shox Reverb.0
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stanny_uk wrote:Looking at upgrading from resin only discs. To super star full floaters so i can use sintered pads at cannock. Any body have experiance of super star discs and pads???
Pads wise I have the kevlar ones, get the bulk deal its worth it long term. Or go halves with someone as you can buy different types for the same discounted price
I ride cannock also0