Front brake fade.
1mancity2
Posts: 2,355
Doing freeride and dh sections yesterday, noticed my front brake fading after around 1hr, they are hope m4, pad life looks ok, any ideas what causes this and how I can cure it?
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heat. dont brake as much (dragging the brake), fit bigger rotors. Change to suitable pads. get better brakes.
have the pads glased over?
more info really needed."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Pads look ok, sintered Superstar
203mm rotor
I don't brake a lot really
brakes have always been good, could they need a bleed? (don't feel spongy or unresposive)0 -
1mancity2 wrote:Pads look ok, sintered Superstar
if the lever is firm then a bleed will do nothing. if the brakes were fading due to boiling the fluid then you would have a spongey lever and a bleed would be needed.
basically you are over using the brakes that is putting them out of their usable range."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Tbh I have started riding a lot harder/faster so you may be right, so what would be a good FR/DH brake upgrade?0
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Saint.0
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Formula.
I have used both Oros and the 1. no issues.
BUT i would look at how you brake and maybe some better pads in the front."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Just had the pads out and cleaned/sanded them so will try that, but as 386ka says what pads would you recommend Nick?0
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386ka wrote:nicklouse wrote:Formula.
I have used both Oros and the 1. no issues.
BUT i would look at how you brake and maybe some better pads in the front.
but if you meant to try and reduce brake fade i just used the OE ones."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Never mind, I haven't experienced brake fade yet on my RX's, maybe I haven't ridden that hard yet. I am aiming to never feel brake fade again, and also to have a bit more modulation. Sintered is the way to go? (Using stock pads, I think that they are organic)A much loved, Giant Trance X3 20100
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Something I heard every time one of our group in france had brake issues on long descents "You eeeenglish wiz ze seeentered pads". French people all seem to think they cause brake fade. I have no idea if they're correct tbh, never been able to get my brakes to fade even when the rotors've been discolouring from heat (superstar kevlars in Formula Oros incidentally- first time down fort william I had the back brake pretty much deathlocked on at all times in terror, with a 160mm rotor, very pretty colours but never stopped working)
Never used an M4, are they not pretty potent brakes? Hope seem a wee bit more susceptible to fade than most but from what you describe I'm surprised you're getting fade, the UK doesn't have that many long hard runs so they should be getting a rest on push/ride ups?Uncompromising extremist0 -
Northwind wrote:Something I heard every time one of our group in france had brake issues on long descents "You eeeenglish wiz ze seeentered pads". French people all seem to think they cause brake fade. I have no idea if they're correct tbh, never been able to get my brakes to fade even when the rotors've been discolouring from heat (superstar kevlars in Formula Oros incidentally- first time down fort william I had the back brake pretty much deathlocked on at all times in terror, with a 160mm rotor, very pretty colours but never stopped working)
Never used an M4, are they not pretty potent brakes? Hope seem a wee bit more susceptible to fade than most but from what you describe I'm surprised you're getting fade, the UK doesn't have that many long hard runs so they should be getting a rest on push/ride ups?
They feel like they have loads of power and always been spot on, only doing sections of around 3-4mins then a ride/push back up, the brake is fine in the first 2,3 corners then looses power, never had it before but like i've said i am riding harder.
Cleaned the pads and caliper/rotor see if that cures it.0 -
Want me to post you them new pads?0
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Nah be alright till Sunday bud0
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Northwind wrote:Something I heard every time one of our group in france had brake issues on long descents "You eeeenglish wiz ze seeentered pads". French people all seem to think they cause brake fade.
If you are prone to getting Sintered to get to hot, the best thing to look out for is cooling off sections, where instead of lightly dragging the brake you can get right off it for a bit to allow it to cool.
Kevlar is ALMOST the best of both worlds....ceramic are better still!
Noting that different compounds from different manufacturers within the same catch all groupings will behave differently anyway!
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
deadkenny wrote:Northwind wrote:Something I heard every time one of our group in france had brake issues on long descents "You eeeenglish wiz ze seeentered pads"."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
deadkenny wrote:Just invite them over to ride in our crappy weather conditions and laugh at their foolish organic pads then.
I used the same type of pads for that holiday, and for a race at fort william, and for endless interminable swampy xc rides... SS Kevlar, good at everything.Uncompromising extremist0