servicing BB tool list.

blablablacksheep
blablablacksheep Posts: 1,377
edited February 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Just a quick question, going to open up my BB/cranks and see how worn they are as the cranks do have some side to side play in them, most likely due to the crank getting looose and needing to be tightened some more.

Question is, tools wise, im unsure what il need, more importantly...do i "need" to get a torque wrench for this?

I worried about the little 5mm bolt on the crank arm as it says in ominous words, "do not overtighten more than 12-14NM).....so worried if i take the cranks apart i might overtighten it if i didnt have a torque wrench.

So what you think, torque wrench or just go by feel,?

Other than that il need
Grease for crank arms(someone said anti-sieze for crank arms but all the vids i seen grease seems to be used)
BB tool
New BB ie deore one as old one nearly 6 months old now(no sign of wear from what i can tell but may as well replace it)
London2Brighton Challange 100k!
http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    there is a tool list on Parktools for every job.

    and not really if you have an idea what 14nm feels like.
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  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Kind of depends what is fitted. HTII, square taper etc.
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  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Grease for crank arms(someone said anti-sieze for crank arms but all the vids i seen grease seems to be used)
    Grease for anything that should move.

    Optionally anti-seize on threads that shouldn't move but you'd like to make it easier to undo them later. Generally I use it on some high torque threads. e.g. Pedal threads, crank threads, BB cup threads. Up to you if you use anti-seize. It's not essential, just might help.

    Thread lock on low torque small bolts etc that need it. Often there will be blue residue on the existing bolts that need it.

    Generally read the manuals for the bike and components. Should say what needs what and where.
  • 1mancity2
    1mancity2 Posts: 2,355
    I worried about the little 5mm bolt on the crank arm as it says in ominous words, "do not overtighten more than 12-14NM).....so worried if i take the cranks apart i might overtighten it if i didnt have a torque wrench.

    Shimano SLX or similar?

    Be careful with the pinch bolts, they round quite easily, clean them out with a cocktail stick so your 5mm allen key or socket gets good purchase.
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  • 1mancity2 wrote:
    I worried about the little 5mm bolt on the crank arm as it says in ominous words, "do not overtighten more than 12-14NM).....so worried if i take the cranks apart i might overtighten it if i didnt have a torque wrench.

    Shimano SLX or similar?

    Be careful with the pinch bolts, they round quite easily, clean them out with a cocktail stick so your 5mm allen key or socket gets good purchase.

    Good suggestions, the bolts do look rather "weak",

    Its deore crankset i have incl BB, so atm just going to replace the BB with deore one unless it worth getting a better BB, if they any better that is?

    Torque wise i havnt a clue what 12-14 is, but i guess it just "tighten till resistance" like most small bolts ie top nut bolt on bars ect.
    London2Brighton Challange 100k!
    http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    12-14 is not very much. Twice what you do for levers on your bars (aprox 5).

    Or get a torque wrench. But that's expense, especially if you want one for high torques also as you need two wrenches then. I went with them though given I didn't really know how tight things should be. Discovered the shop had way over and under tightened pretty much everything. I'm much happier knowing they're torqued right now. After a while I get to know how much they need though so could do without.