2010 Trek Fuel Main Pivot Bolt Question

col72
col72 Posts: 8
edited February 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi

I've got a 2010 Trek Fuel 6 with creaky suspension. I am thinking that the main pivot bearings could do with either replacing or a clean and grease. To have a look at them, I tried to remove the main pivot axle bolt using the allen key fitting from the non drive side. This just turns round on itself and won't come loose. There is nothing I can see on the drive side where I can use a tool on the 'nut' to stop this happening.

Anybody had a similar problem or can help?

Cheers

Comments

  • d00m
    d00m Posts: 160
    Isn't there a black nut at the other end, with torque values on? With the cranks off you should be able to get an open ended spanner on it. Unless I'm confused of course!
  • col72
    col72 Posts: 8
    Unfortunately not, the torque values are written on the drive side nut, this screws into a gold colored 'nut' on the drive side although this does not have an allen key or open ended spanner fitting on it. It fits flush against the axle housing. The only thing I can think of is using a dremmel multi tool to cut in a channel to get a large flat head screwdriver to stop it from turning but this will ruin the nut..... open to any other suggestions.
  • 386ka
    386ka Posts: 479
    Can you take pictures?
    A much loved, Giant Trance X3 2010
  • 386ka
    386ka Posts: 479
    If yes, then there is a allen key on both sides...
    A much loved, Giant Trance X3 2010
  • col72
    col72 Posts: 8
    Thanks for the link for the frame schematic.......this frame is pretty much the same although mine is a 2010 model and the head tube isn't tapered. The issue I am having is with 'bolt 7' (as per diagram in link). I have checked and double checked and there is no allen key fitting on this, which I realize is different from the diagram....thanks for your help with this.
  • .blitz
    .blitz Posts: 6,197
    Looks similar (!) to my Rize. I had to unscrew one side (a little) then tap it with a rubber mallet - the other side will start to push out. Unscrew it a little more then tap it again with the mallet until the other side is loose enough to pull out (shock removed obv).

    FWIW the main pivot bolt had never seen grease in its life and the plating on it had corroded to the inner shells of the bearings. Lurvely.
  • d00m
    d00m Posts: 160
    What a pain in the arse :mrgreen:
  • tom_fun
    tom_fun Posts: 124
    What .blitz said....

    Just swapped the bearings on my Kona and thats how I got mine out.

    Here is a Video I found very helpful....

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SJ3zdYZt80
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    tom_fun wrote:
    What .blitz said....

    Just swapped the bearings on my Kona and thats how I got mine out.

    Here is a Video I found very helpful....

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SJ3zdYZt80
    About to do mine this weekend, bike is stripped down to the frame ready and waiting, hope it's as easy as in the video.
    That's the guy I bought the bearings off as well.
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  • tom_fun
    tom_fun Posts: 124
    I was able to borrow a workbench vice from work and it was as easy as the video. I emailed Kaesae with a couple of questions before I started and he is a helpful chap.

    Good luck!