hydro line shortening

daftlad22
daftlad22 Posts: 46
edited February 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi all , just gone up to discs from Vs but i want to take about 200mm of the Hydro lines as they are to long for my frame
They are XT M775 and have fitted well and i have not had to bleed them yet of course i will when i shorten them
So whats involved and whats the method please
Cheers Phil

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    It is all covered in the manual you can download from shimanos webby.

    You will need new inserts and olives and may need to bleed.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • daftlad22
    daftlad22 Posts: 46
    Sound mate, all ordered and a kit to reverse bleed em when ive done
    Phil.
  • alexm77
    alexm77 Posts: 23
    You shouldn't need to bleed them...

    http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content ... dFile.html

    Did mine this weekend, pretty straight forward.
  • daftlad22
    daftlad22 Posts: 46
    Alexm77 wrote:
    You shouldn't need to bleed them...

    http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content ... dFile.html

    Did mine this weekend, pretty straight forward.

    Top man alexm77 thats the kind of help us newbies are lookin for ,thanks a lot mate :D:D:D
  • alexm77
    alexm77 Posts: 23
    No prob daftlad. Few things worth mentioning...

    I did everything with the brakes fitted to the bike, as it's easy to ensure the the levers are at the high point. I've not done this before, and was a bit too worried about cutting too much hose. I left a bit too much, and the hoses are touching, which makes an annoying clicking noise so I'll be re-doing them.

    To avoid this, fit them on the bike first, with all the hose slack up at the lever end. Where it clips to the cable guide on the frame, mark the hose with some tape. Now pull the hose back down the frame, so you're getting slack at the caliper end, until you've got the correct slack up at the levers. The bars should be able to turn 180 degrees, and the gear cable to be a bit shorter so this takes the strain if you have a crash twisting the bars. Now measure the distance between your cable guide and the tape, and it should give you an accurate amount to chop off. You could do something similar for the front one using a cable tie.

    Before I cut the hose, I swivelled the levers up so the cable hole bit was at the highest point, just in case any oil was going to pour out. Once the hose was connected, I swivelled the lever so the bleed hole was the highest point, allowing any air bubbles to get out here.

    You need to remove the bleed screw on top of the lever before pushing the pistons back in - the PDF doesn't make this clear. I also managed to pour the fluid from the chopped off hose back in to the bleed hole, though don't know if this helps or not.

    Hth
  • daftlad22
    daftlad22 Posts: 46
    Spot on mate gona do em on Saturday morning ready for the Sunday blast
    Is the bleed nipple on the lever obvious to spot
    Cheers Phil
  • alexm77
    alexm77 Posts: 23
    Just looked up yours and they're a bit different from my slx ones (M666), so not completely sure - looking at the pics I think you might have to take the lid and diaphragm off the lever to push the pads back in, but just make sure it's level, and stick a couple of extra drops of oil in if there's room before putting the diaphragm back on to avoid any air being caught in there.
  • daftlad22
    daftlad22 Posts: 46
    Nice one, so it dont matter if when i refitt the lid with the diaphram on, it displaces oil and it spills thus there cant be air in the res
  • alexm77
    alexm77 Posts: 23
    yeah, that's pretty much it. That's the nice thing about mineral oil, doesn't matter if you make a mess :wink:
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    daftlad22 wrote:
    Nice one, so it dont matter if when i refitt the lid with the diaphram on, it displaces oil and it spills thus there cant be air in the res
    Well it can. As the left lever is over the front brake you can kill a set of pads easily.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • daftlad22
    daftlad22 Posts: 46
    A bit obvious that one mate most poeple will tie a wragg around the line or close as you could to the lever to soak what will be a miniscule amount of run off , its the method i required the common sense i allready have .
  • oodboo
    oodboo Posts: 2,171
    Recently got some xt brakes from rose. Never had to do any work on hydro brakes before. Need to swap the levers over so might as well trim them to size now that I know how :D

    Cheers
    I love horses, best of all the animals. I love horses, they're my friends.

    Strava
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    daftlad22 wrote:
    A bit obvious that one mate most poeple will tie a wragg around the line or close as you could to the lever to soak what will be a miniscule amount of run off , its the method i required the common sense i allready have .
    you may be shocked at how many people do not see that.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • daftlad22
    daftlad22 Posts: 46
    All done now used the tips and link that alexm77 gave me
    Had a moment with the rears as i think i took to long triming and fitting the hose insert and pulled some air but reverse bled and got good feel first time
    Front was so simple just cut line fitted insert , hose back on to lever and no bleed , good feel so happy days
    thanks for the help guys
    Phil

Categories