Chain oil keeps going like black tar

gtd.
gtd. Posts: 626
edited February 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Been using Muc Off wet but it just keeps turning into black tar like stuff. bike is used for commute and single track mostly.
Mountain: Orange Patriot FR, SubZero & Evo2LE.
Road: Tifosi Race Custom.
Do it all bike: Surly Disc Trucker 700c/29er

Comments

  • omegas
    omegas Posts: 970
    after applying wipe away any excess , you need a minimal amount on the outside of the chain.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Wet lube is horrible stuff. Clean chain properly, get a wax based lube - Squirt is good, and apply frequently in bad weather. It doesn't collect crud, and very little sticks, just wipe after a ride and reapply if necessary.
    I find I need to apply every few rides in bad weather, every few weeks maybe less in dry weather.

    Now let the how to clean, how often, what with, use chainsaw oil, dry lube is rubbish, wet lube is rubbish, wax lube is rubbish belt drive rules debate begin.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    omegas wrote:
    after applying wipe away any excess , you need a minimal amount on the outside of the chain.
    Actually you need none at all on the outside of the chain. Only the rollers need lubing, which are inside.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    The black tar is probably due to commuting. Road grime is horrible stuff, I guess it's a mix of tarmc, exhaust fumes, brake dust and tyre rubber.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • gtd.
    gtd. Posts: 626
    cooldad wrote:
    Wet lube is horrible stuff. Clean chain properly, get a wax based lube - Squirt is good, and apply frequently in bad weather. It doesn't collect crud, and very little sticks, just wipe after a ride and reapply if necessary.
    I find I need to apply every few rides in bad weather, every few weeks maybe less in dry weather.

    Now let the how to clean, how often, what with, use chainsaw oil, dry lube is rubbish, wet lube is rubbish, wax lube is rubbish belt drive rules debate begin.


    Used to use chainsaw oil...

    Usually clean chain using parafin/white spirit or dirty two stroke mix then wipe and dry then use wet lube... cant remember if the chainsaw oil went tarry.
    bails87 wrote:
    The black tar is probably due to commuting. Road grime is horrible stuff, I guess it's a mix of tarmc, exhaust fumes, brake dust and tyre rubber.

    I only commute 6 miles a day + popping to shops etc. Cleaned and lubed drivetrain last week and it was pitted this morning black tar all over the cassette.
    Mountain: Orange Patriot FR, SubZero & Evo2LE.
    Road: Tifosi Race Custom.
    Do it all bike: Surly Disc Trucker 700c/29er
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    cooldad wrote:
    omegas wrote:
    after applying wipe away any excess , you need a minimal amount on the outside of the chain.
    Actually you need none at all on the outside of the chain. Only the rollers need lubing, which are inside.
    On a commuter exposed to salt that will soon result in the orange chain of shame.........

    I'm in the slap it on an just wipe off the drips school for the commuter exposed to all the muck it is.....

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    cooldad wrote:
    omegas wrote:
    after applying wipe away any excess , you need a minimal amount on the outside of the chain.
    Actually you need none at all on the outside of the chain. Only the rollers need lubing, which are inside.
    On a commuter exposed to salt that will soon result in the orange chain of shame.........

    I'm in the slap it on an just wipe off the drips school for the commuter exposed to all the muck it is.....

    Simon

    Wash your mouth out with soap. Profanity is only allowed in CC.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Read the original post then, if your old eyes are still up to the task.......

    And my delightfully gorgeous MTB doesn't get used on the commute, I have the commuter for that!

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    One is supposed to actually read posts before posting random rubbish? Way too much strain on the elderly orbs.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • flappy8
    flappy8 Posts: 172
    Cooldad, what waxlube would you reccomend?
    MTB or Road - They are both good!
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I use Squirt - http://www.in2dust.co.uk/
    Not just my opinion though, it seriously works
    Dry weather
    http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/ ... ube-32098/
    Wet weather (I use it all year round)
    http://reviews.mtbr.com/squirt-lube-wha ... ubrication
    Even STW type people
    http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/squirt-lube

    Important to apply it properly though. The chain must be thoroughly, cleaned and degreased, then the lube applied initially twice (apply, leave to dry, apply again) and left overnight.
    After that it just needs a wipe and fresh lube as required.

    I don't rave about much, but this stuff is so much better than anything else I've ever tried, both in keeping the chain clean and keeping it smooth and quiet.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • omegas
    omegas Posts: 970
    cooldad wrote:
    omegas wrote:
    after applying wipe away any excess , you need a minimal amount on the outside of the chain.
    Actually you need none at all on the outside of the chain.

    Wrong and a very big wrong
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    omegas wrote:
    Wrong and a very big wrong
    Go on...


    But anyway. Modern chains are lubed sufficiently by applying lube to the rollers which gets inside by design and drive through from inside to out, keeping crud out. Outside just provides a layer of dirt attractor.

    Lubing is required far less than people think, wet lube is the devils spawn and really not required at all, and factory lube should not be removed at all until it's no good any more (it's the best lube there is). Frequent degreasing and lubing is going to wash out the oil inside the chain.

    Just wipe down, apply dry lube if needed even in the winter, ride and worry less about lubing chains.

    Wet lube will give you black gunk or similar as it sucks up and coats the chain in grit. It's not actually the solution to riding in the wet and dry lube does a fine job in the wet and mud.

    http://bikemagic.com/gear/how-to/chain- ... r-dry.html

    Should be stressed that beliefs in oiling chain techniques is almost like a religion.
  • bennett_346
    bennett_346 Posts: 5,029
    deadkenny wrote:
    omegas wrote:
    Wrong and a very big wrong
    Lubing is required far less than people think, wet lube is the devils spawn and really not required at all, and factory lube should not be removed at all until it's no good any more (it's the best lube there is). If so, why do KMC say to remove it (supposedly just a preservative to stop corrosion during transit etc etc)

    Frequent degreasing and lubing is going to wash out the oil inside the chain.
    Until you relube it and the oil is once again back inside the chain...

    Wet lube will give you black gunk or similar as it sucks up and coats the chain in grit. It's not actually the solution to riding in the wet and dry lube does a fine job in the wet and mud.
    Wet lube works well in the wet months where i live. Dry lube lasts about 5 minutes before my chain squeaks and loses all the oil in the rollers
    Just playing devils advocate here, i don't disagree with your points if it works for you
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    Do KMC advise removing it? I thought they advised the opposite, it's just that many forum posters seem to get hung up on the stickyness of the stuff and decide to strip it all off and stick on their own stuff.

    Whatever works for you though, true. Personally I leave the KMC stuff on and it's been fine so far. Eventually squirt a bit of dry lube just because I feel it may be about time. I don't bother stripping existing lube off. All works fine.

    Never had a squeeky chain, ever. Though I don't ride through rivers :D. My wet rides are basically just wet mud.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    omegas wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    omegas wrote:
    after applying wipe away any excess , you need a minimal amount on the outside of the chain.
    Actually you need none at all on the outside of the chain.

    Wrong and a very big wrong
    So what exactly is lube on the outside of the chain lubricating?
    I am quite open to reconsidering my opinion if you have a reasonable argument.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • bennett_346
    bennett_346 Posts: 5,029
    cooldad wrote:
    omegas wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    omegas wrote:
    after applying wipe away any excess , you need a minimal amount on the outside of the chain.
    Actually you need none at all on the outside of the chain.

    Wrong and a very big wrong
    So what exactly is lube on the outside of the chain lubricating?
    I am quite open to reconsidering my opinion if you have a reasonable argument.
    Awaits the inevitable "it aids shifting on the cassette" answer.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    Oil the cassette. Get better mech.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    deadkenny wrote:
    Oil the cassette. Get better mech.
    Almost as useful as oiling the rotors to stop the brakes squeaking.
    (Although after today's ride it's almost tempting; got people out of my way on the ride home though)
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    deadkenny wrote:
    Do KMC advise removing it? I thought they advised the opposite, it's just that many forum posters seem to get hung up on the stickyness of the stuff and decide to strip it all off and stick on their own stuff.

    I had an X9-SL basically explode after one ride, with the original KMC grease on a wet day. Constant chainsuck as soon as I hit the first muddy stretch. Got it replaced on warranty, cleaned off the grease, relubed with a proper bike lube, worked a charm. TBH it doesn't seem like chainlube at all, it's more like a packaging grease.
    cooldad wrote:
    Wet lube is horrible stuff. Clean chain properly, get a wax based lube - Squirt is good, and apply frequently in bad weather. It doesn't collect crud

    Never used a lube that collects as much dirt as Squirt tbh. Brilliant in the dry, awful in the wet in my experience. (twice I just turned around, went home (chainsucking all the way), cleaned the chain, relubed with White Lightning wet lube, went straight back out and did the same ride without any problems.)
    cooldad wrote:
    So what exactly is lube on the outside of the chain lubricating?

    Nothing. But, it may be stopping the chain from rusting.
    Uncompromising extremist
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I suppose different people have different experiences. I've never had chainsuck, only one chain ever snapped ( a Sram) and I just wipe my chain clean, very rarely has any gunk on it anyway, even if the rest of the bike is covered.
    A bit of a wipe dries the chain enough, and any minor surface rust disappears the next ride anyway - not a good reason to coat a chain with oil, IMO.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    I think again, remember that this is a bike that gets used for commuting- this time of year bikes used regularily on the road have more to worry about from corrosion. I use crap chains on the commuter and if they're not oiled or coated all over, they rust like mad.
    Uncompromising extremist
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Fair enough, I forgot (don't think commuting in here, occasionally trawl the commuting section but get bored quickly.)
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

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  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    Best commuting combination I've found, btw, is Squirt with a quick spray of White Lightning Epic Ride (the aerosol version) over the top. That'd probably be a total disaster offroad mind but it's fab on tarmac, lasts for ages.
    Uncompromising extremist
  • gtd.
    gtd. Posts: 626
    Northwind wrote:
    I think again, remember that this is a bike that gets used for commuting- this time of year bikes used regularily on the road have more to worry about from corrosion. I use crap chains on the commuter and if they're not oiled or coated all over, they rust like mad.

    to go off road I have to go by road... I don't drive hence commute and road riding.

    Currently the snow collecting between the chainstay and chainguide is washing the excess oil off

    using wet for now as the bottle is almost empty... hmm get some squirt or go back to bar and chain (chainsaw)oil?
    Mountain: Orange Patriot FR, SubZero & Evo2LE.
    Road: Tifosi Race Custom.
    Do it all bike: Surly Disc Trucker 700c/29er