New Wheels

yeachan153
yeachan153 Posts: 401
edited February 2012 in Road beginners
Hi

Am I right in thinking the tools I will need for fitting a new rear wheel is the chain whip & cassete lock ring remover? (obviously to move the cassette)

Will I need anything else? (excluding a spanner!)

Comments

  • kentphil
    kentphil Posts: 479
    don't think so.... perhaps just some grease to put on the new hub before putting on the cassette.
    1998 Kona Cindercone in singlespeed commute spec
    2013 Cannondale Caadx 1x10
    2004 Giant TCR
  • MattC59
    MattC59 Posts: 5,408
    KentPhil wrote:
    don't think so.... perhaps just some grease to put on the new hub before putting on the cassette.

    Nope, keep the outside free of grease, you don't need it. The cassette won't seize and the grease will just attract dirt.
    Science adjusts it’s beliefs based on what’s observed.
    Faith is the denial of observation so that Belief can be preserved
  • warrerj
    warrerj Posts: 665
    MattC59 wrote:
    KentPhil wrote:
    don't think so.... perhaps just some grease to put on the new hub before putting on the cassette.

    Nope, keep the outside free of grease, you don't need it. The cassette won't seize and the grease will just attract dirt.
    Got to disagree with that I've had cassetts seize on in the past.
    I always put some copper slip (well I now use Juice Lubes Ass Juice - good stuff) on the freehub body before I put the cassett on. Now they slip off every time even on my MTB on the spring service and clean up ater a muddy winter.
  • The instruction that came with my EA50's say that the outside of the free hub should be lightly greased.
  • MattC59
    MattC59 Posts: 5,408
    warrerj wrote:
    MattC59 wrote:
    KentPhil wrote:
    don't think so.... perhaps just some grease to put on the new hub before putting on the cassette.

    Nope, keep the outside free of grease, you don't need it. The cassette won't seize and the grease will just attract dirt.
    Got to disagree with that I've had cassetts seize on in the past.
    I always put some copper slip (well I now use Juice Lubes Ass Juice - good stuff) on the freehub body before I put the cassett on. Now they slip off every time even on my MTB on the spring service and clean up ater a muddy winter.

    Well, that's just my experience. In 26years of mtb-ing and road biking, I've never had a cassette seize. Well, I tell a lie, cassettes (top three sprockets) have a habit of eating into expensive aluminium freehub bodies and sticking, but that's a different issue.
    Science adjusts it’s beliefs based on what’s observed.
    Faith is the denial of observation so that Belief can be preserved
  • Evil Laugh
    Evil Laugh Posts: 1,412
    :oops:
  • Thanks, do you think I could get away without a chain whip? Wanting to cut costs where possible!
  • BruceG
    BruceG Posts: 347
    yeachan153 wrote:
    Thanks, do you think I could get away without a chain whip? Wanting to cut costs where possible!
    NO
  • ilm_zero7
    ilm_zero7 Posts: 2,213
    yeachan153 wrote:
    Thanks, do you think I could get away without a chain whip? Wanting to cut costs where possible!
    yes you can if you use the main crank - but it A) inst easy and B) depends how tight the cassette is

    but get a chain whip - not that expensive
    lifeline-8850-med.jpg?w=350&h=350&a=7
    £9

    unless you go for the cream
    lezyne-cnc-chain-rod-2012-med.jpg?w=350&h=350&a=7
    £30
    http://veloviewer.com/SigImage.php?a=3370a&r=3&c=5&u=M&g=p&f=abcdefghij&z=a.png
    Wiliers: Cento Uno/Superleggera R and Zero 7. Bianchi Infinito CV and Oltre XR2
  • An oil fliter wrench does job if you have one for servicing the gas guzzler
    Allez Triple (hairy with mudguards) - FCN 4
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  • Screw a length of old chain onto a bit of wood = cheap/free chain whip
  • Screw a length of old chain onto a bit of wood = cheap/free chain whip

    I made one ages ago from a cone spanner with a 'peg hole' (for hanging it up on a board) and bits of spare chain.
  • simon_e
    simon_e Posts: 1,707
    Both great DIY methods.

    I bought the Fat Spanner chain whip from LBS for less than a tenner. I see there are IceToolz on ebay for £5-6 posted. For that money you might as well get the tool for the job and be done with it.
    Aspire not to have more, but to be more.
  • If the hubs on your wheels have cone bearings you'll probably need some cone spanners as the bearings will invariably be done up too tight.
  • simon_e
    simon_e Posts: 1,707
    If the hubs on your wheels have cone bearings you'll probably need some cone spanners as the bearings will invariably be done up too tight.
    +1.

    I bought a nice set from Halfrauds after seeing them mentioned on here. Didn't break the bank and each covers 13~17mm. Standard axle grease is ideal for the bearings (you'll surely need that too).
    Aspire not to have more, but to be more.
  • SimonE was it the CYLCO ones you bought from Halfords?

    I have just lost my cup-and-cone virginity with warrenty upgrade wheels and I need a set - but - my cycle spoke wrench just snapped and it was hardly uised os I am wary of CYCLO stuff now?