Titanium bolts

Ian43
Ian43 Posts: 172
edited February 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Probably a silly question but do titanium disc bolts require some lubricant as steel ones do, and are they corrosion and rust free as they say they are.
http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtop ... t=12778805

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    I dont lube steel disc bolts.

    some thread loc yes.

    what are the bolts going into? ally? what disc? steel or an ally carrier.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Russ-Tyson
    Russ-Tyson Posts: 44
    I would avoid titanium disc bolts just from experience as they can round off the heads easy(allen bolts) torx ones could be better but yes the bolts dont corrode but they will corrode to the alloy hub.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Bit of thread lock here. I'd not shy away from ti rotor bolts. XCRacer do some for sensible money which seem good.

    I'm currently using Ashima alloy ones, they're not great, the heads really are too soft.
  • Ian43
    Ian43 Posts: 172
    Just looking at swapping out my ones on my cleansweep G3 rotors, will look at the XC racers ones as well.

    I did think thread loc but was not sure.
    http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtop ... t=12778805
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Ian43 wrote:
    Just looking at swapping out my ones on my cleansweep G3 rotors, will look at the XC racers ones as well.

    I did think thread loc but was not sure.
    why?

    do you want to be checking them every ride?

    the original design was for steel bolts. Ti is not as strong as steel. as for ally ones io have seen them cut in two.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Yep, sure it's a risk! They're sold as rotor bolts, rather than just being some M5 alu bolts I came upon, but still...

    You'll be fine on those rotors - Juicy Ultimates used to come with ti rotor bolts. I agree with why though, you'll save more weight on the rotors themselves!

    You don't need to check them every ride though, that's just scaremongering! It's good practice to check any rotor bolts periodically.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Its not the bolt that stops the disc rotating on the hub, its the friction generated by the clamping load, Ti is more than capable of generating that load, aluminium alloys are marginal and realy need a torque wrench so you generate enough clamp force without wrecking the bolt.

    Clarkes do (or used to do) ally bolts for about 1/3 the price of Ashima.

    As the rear tyre can usually only generate half the grip of the front, you only really need half the bolts to keep it in place!

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Are you the Simon who's reviewed them on CRC then? They don't particularly look like alu - colour's a bit washed out, presumably they weighed chuff all?
  • WMB_Su
    WMB_Su Posts: 9
    Hi,

    We passed your query onto Owen Coutts, WMB's latest tech guru. Here are his thoughts...

    "Titanium does have the reputation of being corrosion resistant and so you’d think you wouldn’t need a dab of anti-seize or grease. However, even if you are using a titanium bolt in a titanium frame we would always recommend you use a
    dab of copper slip, copper grease or anti-seize to prevent any impurities in the titanium from corroding and seizing and to let you achieve the correct torque setting for the bolts.
    If you are using the titanium bolts in an aluminium alloy or steel frame, both of which can corrode and fuse with the titanium, you will also need to add a dab of anti-seize to help ward off any corrosion." Owen

    Cheers, Su
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Brillaint, disc bolts don't go anywhere near a frame!

    Njee, missed your post, but no, not me!

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Clank
    Clank Posts: 2,323
    The Beginner wrote:
    Brillaint, disc bolts don't go anywhere near a frame!

    Yeah, but I'll bet your hub flanges are aluminium, in which case, Owens advice still stands. :wink:
    How would I write my own epitaph? With a crayon - I'm not allowed anything I can sharpen to a sustainable point.

    Disclaimer: Opinions expressed herein are worth exactly what you paid for them.
  • b.bodegraven
    b.bodegraven Posts: 15
    Titanium may not be vulnerable to corrosion, but it is vulnerable to galling. Especially in combination with titanium lock nuts.
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    You revived an 8 year old thread just to say that! :/
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,449
    I didn't notice the date either, it's always catching me out! :'(

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