Hub noise - lbs or diy?

iclestu
iclestu Posts: 503
edited February 2012 in Commuting chat
Oh Great gurus of the cycling world....

I have an intermittent grinding noise comming from my rear hub (which is getting progressively worse). Now that I am car-less the lbs is a bit more of a faff than it used to be (its further than walking distance and they invariably want to keep hold of it for a few days) and the flyer I saw for MOBILE bike repair guy has just emailed me back asking me to bring it to his workshop. (pppfft - why are u mobile then!?)

Anyways, the purpose of this post is to see how feasible it would be to have a look myself?

Having done a little bit of a google im a little bit lost. From here:

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/cyclo-cross/product/pro-cx-10-35695

my hubs are "alloy sealed cartridge low flange". All the guidance I have seen relates to cone spanners and the like (which isnt going to apply to mine?) so how do I replace the cartridge? Anyone got any ideas or experience of this?
FCN 7: Dawes Galaxy Ultra 2012 - sofa-like comfort to eat up the miles

Reserve: 2010 Boardman CX Pro

Comments

  • Invacare Spectra Plus electric wheelchair, max speed 4mph :cry:
  • iclestu
    iclestu Posts: 503


    thanks for that. doesn't sound too difficult?

    Are all cartridges the same size? Any idea how I find out which size to buy? I have been trying to google a spec but cant find one.
    FCN 7: Dawes Galaxy Ultra 2012 - sofa-like comfort to eat up the miles

    Reserve: 2010 Boardman CX Pro
  • This gives more details... http://www.khurramweb.com/sw-102.html

    If you can't get the proper drifts, i find a cheap socket set usually provides a solution.

    As to sizing... there is a standard naming convention for bearings, but there aren't standard sizes for the hubs, you might find something on manufacturers website for branded hubs, for non-branded you'll probably have to measure them once removed. When you take the hub covers off you may be able to see the numbering on the bearing; if you look at Wiggle's website for instance they list a range of bearings with standard numbering such as 60012RS, 69032RS, 61803 etc. these tell you the size (so a 6001 is 12mm axle, 28mm outside dia and 8mm thick). The other info, such as 2RS means it has 2 rubber seals (the most common for bike bearings). See here for more info on bearing sizing.
    Invacare Spectra Plus electric wheelchair, max speed 4mph :cry:
  • iclestu
    iclestu Posts: 503
    thanks very much for this. What happens at the drive side? Does this bearing just slide inside the freehub body somewhere? Do i need a new freehub body? How do i source the correct one of these?
    FCN 7: Dawes Galaxy Ultra 2012 - sofa-like comfort to eat up the miles

    Reserve: 2010 Boardman CX Pro
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    try reading both Sheldons and Parktools pages. all the info is there.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • iclestu
    iclestu Posts: 503
    nicklouse wrote:
    try reading both Sheldons and Parktools pages. all the info is there.

    Had already had a look at sheldons but couldnt quite work out how the cartridge fits in the freehub. Never knew the parktools site existed!

    I'm afraid I am still not sure what parts to order? Do I have to take it to bits to find out? Can i just buy any Shimano 10 spd freehub body if the freehub body needs replaced?

    oooo - too many questions. Hope im not trying peoples patience but its a complicated affair!!!
    FCN 7: Dawes Galaxy Ultra 2012 - sofa-like comfort to eat up the miles

    Reserve: 2010 Boardman CX Pro
  • iclestu
    iclestu Posts: 503
    This gives more details... http://www.khurramweb.com/sw-102.html

    If you can't get the proper drifts, i find a cheap socket set usually provides a solution.

    As to sizing... there is a standard naming convention for bearings, but there aren't standard sizes for the hubs, you might find something on manufacturers website for branded hubs, for non-branded you'll probably have to measure them once removed. When you take the hub covers off you may be able to see the numbering on the bearing; if you look at Wiggle's website for instance they list a range of bearings with standard numbering such as 60012RS, 69032RS, 61803 etc. these tell you the size (so a 6001 is 12mm axle, 28mm outside dia and 8mm thick). The other info, such as 2RS means it has 2 rubber seals (the most common for bike bearings). See here for more info on bearing sizing.

    Hmmm - so if I cant see this number on the side of one of the bearings, is my ruler good enough? or should i really be getting some callipers or something?

    Starting to wish id gone with LBS!
    FCN 7: Dawes Galaxy Ultra 2012 - sofa-like comfort to eat up the miles

    Reserve: 2010 Boardman CX Pro
  • tx14
    tx14 Posts: 244
    iclestu wrote:
    nicklouse wrote:
    try reading both Sheldons and Parktools pages. all the info is there.

    Had already had a look at sheldons but couldnt quite work out how the cartridge fits in the freehub. Never knew the parktools site existed!

    I'm afraid I am still not sure what parts to order? Do I have to take it to bits to find out? Can i just buy any Shimano 10 spd freehub body if the freehub body needs replaced?

    oooo - too many questions. Hope im not trying peoples patience but its a complicated affair!!!
    the splines have the same spec but the interface with the hub body are usually different. you need the specific freehub body for the model. (if it is indeed the freehub that's faulty)
  • iclestu
    iclestu Posts: 503
    tx14 wrote:
    iclestu wrote:
    nicklouse wrote:
    try reading both Sheldons and Parktools pages. all the info is there.

    Had already had a look at sheldons but couldnt quite work out how the cartridge fits in the freehub. Never knew the parktools site existed!

    I'm afraid I am still not sure what parts to order? Do I have to take it to bits to find out? Can i just buy any Shimano 10 spd freehub body if the freehub body needs replaced?

    oooo - too many questions. Hope im not trying peoples patience but its a complicated affair!!!
    the splines have the same spec but the interface with the hub body are usually different. you need the specific freehub body for the model. (if it is indeed the freehub that's faulty)

    Having stripped this down to find my size (3 cartridges - 2 60002rs and 1 69002rs in the same hub) I have patched it back together as best as I can until the new cartridges (now ordered) arrive but (unsurprisingly) the noise is now much worse having pulled the bearings cartrides out and put them back in. Hope they hold out for another couple of days

    The freehub mechanism itself seems ok but the splines are all pitted with grooves (to the extent that I could not manage to remove all the cassette cogs which were kinda 'fused' into the grooves they had made). So, given that my cassette will need replaced shortly anyways it strikes me as a good time to replace this freehub body anyways. I popped it off the hub shell without any real difficulty so no problems fitting a replacement but i have NO idea how to source the correct one.

    The hubs are not branded so finding something on google is proving difficult. The pawls are 'external' in that they jut out from the freehub body into the bearing shell (which holds the ratcheted thing for them to click against). I can see the odd one that LOOKs like this on the internet. for example:


    http://www.cyclesportsuk.co.uk/product_ ... s_id=10317

    But how can I be sure without a spec sheet to look up? Aaaargh. really wish I had made this my lbs' problem. A new wheel is surely an extreme solution?
    FCN 7: Dawes Galaxy Ultra 2012 - sofa-like comfort to eat up the miles

    Reserve: 2010 Boardman CX Pro