Un-lacing wheels and preserving the rims

jomoj

hello

I'm about to have some nice new rims built on to my hubs and would like to unlace the current rims from the hubs in the least destructive way possible so that I can use them and the spokes to practice wheelbuilding with.

Is there a particular pattern or method to use to de-tension the spokes that will result in the least distortion of the rim?

both wheels are 32H laced 3 cross

thanks

Joe

term1te

In my experience the rim shouldn't become distorted when you remove the spokes. As long as it is not damaged you should be able to true it back on a new hub. Likewise the spokes should be OK to practice with if there is not sign of damage. They may look a little bent when you remove them, but as long as there are no kinks they'll pull straight again when you lace them up. If you intend to build the wheel up again, you'll need hubs of the same dimensions as the ones you've removed, otherwise the spokes will be the wrong length.

If you've going to ride the remade wheels, I'd have a good look to make sure there were no cracks around any of the holes in the rim. Also is the nipples are alloy, I'd replace them for new ones.

Take some photographes of the wheels before you dissasemble them, to help lace them up correctly on the new hubs.

jomoj

thanks - so is no there no particular order to loosen off the spokes in? just start on one and work round or do them in pairs or opposite sides of the wheel for example?

hulla the hulla

You can back off all the spokes by working around the wheel a turn at a time if you feel necessary and it's probably good practice to do so but as mentioned above it's probably not going to cause you problems if you don't.

Tip - You can lay the old wheel on the worktop, lay the new rim on top of the old one and tape it to the old one so the holes are lined up, observing if holes are offset and rotation direction if relevant etc. Then you can undo the nipples so the spokes becomes loose in the old wheel, move the spokes one by one to the new rim and then gently attach with the old (or new if you so choose) nipples to the new rim, thus preserving the spoke pattern. You can then, once all spokes are attached loosely, remove the old rim and slowly work to build up and true the wheel with the new rim in place.

As mentioned though, make sure the old and new rims are the same profile otherwise your spoke lengths will be wrong.

jomoj

OK, thank you, I'll just work round and ease them off. I like your tip about transferring the rim over but I'm going to get a local wheelbuilder to build the new rims on (just arrived in the post - DT Swiss RR465 ) and keep the old rims and spokes for a later experiment in self-build - something I've always meant to try. Hopefully I'll be able to find some cheapish hubs that are close enough in dimensions to the current ones (Dura Ace 7700) for the spokes to be swappable.

hulla the hulla

jomoj wrote:

OK, thank you, I'll just work round and ease them off. I like your tip about transferring the rim over but I'm going to get a local wheelbuilder to build the new rims on (just arrived in the post - DT Swiss RR465 ) and keep the old rims and spokes for a later experiment in self-build - something I've always meant to try. Hopefully I'll be able to find some cheapish hubs that are close enough in dimensions to the current ones (Dura Ace 7700) for the spokes to be swappable.

might be worth taking a few photos then (think someone else mentioned this too) as an aid memoir. or you could buy one of the many decent wheel building books that are around (amazon have loads and they are not expensive).

have fun - nowt better than building wheels, truing them so they are arrow straight and knowing that it was all your handy work

rake

an electric screwdriver is very handy when you have 32 to undo with 10 turns each.start with a couple of turns around each one and then you can take em right out .

2Phat4Rapha

Slacken 'em all by one turn first, then again a couple of turns each after which it won't matter. And wear safety specs!

If you remove all the spokes from the hub as well, then don't reuse them in a wheel you are going to ride. Ok for building practice though.

Check the hub flanges for cracks and notice the "pull lines" left from the previous build. If it's a good hub and you haven't done it before, could strip, clean and refurb it with new bearing for the fun of it.

jomoj

thanks for all the advice and tips, I'm going to order the spokes and undo the rims this weekend. Hubs were recently serviced and still as smooth as butter so no concerns there, and hopefully they will be un damaged for re-use.

Was going to order sapim race (DB stainless) spokes but any opinion on whether it's worth using a heavier guage on the rear drive side or is this not necessary?

I'll probably start with a front wheel before getting into dishing a back wheel, have been truing my wheels for years but never assembled one from scratch. Should be fun.

Cheers!

hulla the hulla

Do you have a wheel truing stand or are you just using your bike frame / forks ?

Monty Dog

The advise for thicker spokes on drive side is more relevant where you are a heavier rider, want something strong or where using a lightweight spoke like a DT Revs. As for reusing spokes, provided the wheel doesn't have a history of premature spoke failure, you should be OK because the spoke is always working within its 'elastic limits' and therefore should have an infinite fatigue life. It's quite common to re-rim the same hub and spokes many times, only replacing the rim and nipples.

jomoj

re: spokes - I'll probably just get DB all round with the standard brass nips, I'm not exactly a powerhouse but I value reliability over gram shaving.

I haven't got a truing stand, usually just use the frame and some cable ties for guides but I might invest or build a DIY one if my front wheel attempt turns out all right. Never bust a spoke on the wheels I'm dismantling so I'd hope they are ok to re-use. Even if one goes, its not going to be catastrophic on a 32 spoke wheel.

Any recommendations for books? And tools wise I guess it's worth investing in a tension gauge..?

stigofthedump

For all the advice you will ever need get the Wheelpro book
Download for £9 here

http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php

It also has plans and designs for building your own truing stand and other tools.

Best £9 i ever spent. you also get free book upgrades for life.