Rubber Queen tubeless issues

kenan
kenan Posts: 952
edited January 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Trying to set-up a Rubber Queen (Non ust) onto a DIY tubeless set-up. The bead is seated but the sidewall is leaking air slowly, seems to be coming through the sidewall. Lost 20psi going from 37-17 overnight and there were some spots of sealent on the sidewall this morning. Any tips/advice?

Comments

  • sanchez89
    sanchez89 Posts: 567
    shake the sealant around, maybe add a bit more too. Continental non-tubeless sidewalls are known to be porous.

    Pump it up to about 30psi, shove it in the bike and go for a quick ride round. check tomorrow and probably add more sealant and repeat the spin/ride until sealed fully.
    2011 KHS Full Susser Carbon 29er Race Build
    Clank wrote:
    M'eh, I might just go back to zapping it with frikken lay-zur beeeems. And sharks.
  • kenan
    kenan Posts: 952
    Yeah had read they are porous, tis a shame as it's a great tyre.

    I'll give the riding a go, thanks for the tip. Fitting a Nobby Nic to the rear tongiht, hope that goes better. . .
  • kenan
    kenan Posts: 952
    Well the Nic went on better, and seems to be holding pressure well so took them both for a spin round the block.

    It might be all in my mind but the ride felt smoother, like the tyres were now softer even with highter pressures then before.
  • It sounds like yourgoing through a similar learning curve to mewith the whole tubelrss thing. At first I ran a set of bontys which lasted just a few weeks before tearing the sidewalls to bits on both tyres (needless to say I'll never buy bontys again). After that I went on to a set of conti mt kings mk1 in the supersonic 2.4 folding version, These leaked air pretty badly no matter what I did so after they wore down I decided that if I wanted to run contis tubeless I would only use UST versions. After that I found kenda nevegals held air really well but am now running the best (and probably cheapest) tubeless setup I have ever run. Maxxis Minion 2.35 single ply 60a wire bead on both the front and rear they cost about £22 each online and have bundles of grip and roll really well too also if you wanted even more grip you could run the front as a 42a super tacky. It would be nice to run the maxxis evo 3c version but it costs about £55 per tyer so I'll stick with the 60a. Also I find they hold air really really well.
    Yeti SB66c 2013
  • 386ka
    386ka Posts: 479
    It sounds like yourgoing through a similar learning curve to mewith the whole tubelrss thing. At first I ran a set of bontys which lasted just a few weeks before tearing the sidewalls to bits on both tyres (needless to say I'll never buy bontys again). After that I went on to a set of conti mt kings mk1 in the supersonic 2.4 folding version, These leaked air pretty badly no matter what I did so after they wore down I decided that if I wanted to run contis tubeless I would only use UST versions. After that I found kenda nevegals held air really well but am now running the best (and probably cheapest) tubeless setup I have ever run. Maxxis Minion 2.35 single ply 60a wire bead on both the front and rear they cost about £22 each online and have bundles of grip and roll really well too also if you wanted even more grip you could run the front as a 42a super tacky. It would be nice to run the maxxis evo 3c version but it costs about £55 per tyer so I'll stick with the 60a. Also I find they hold air really really well.
    Were the nevegals folding with kevlar bead? Are these suitable for tubeless?
    A much loved, Giant Trance X3 2010
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    386ka wrote:
    Were the nevegals folding with kevlar bead? Are these suitable for tubeless?

    Aye, very. Though, you might find they have some holes in the sidewalls that need attention (wee bit of tyre patch cement smeared on the other side will do it). But once up, they're good.

    My rubber queens foamed for days before they sealed up, but they did it eventually... My Baron seems to be just the same, you can see a hundred wee white dots as the sealant comes through.
    Uncompromising extremist
  • 386ka
    386ka Posts: 479
    Yeah, the walls are a bit thin, I don't know it will hold up. I have the nevegals, and I do like them a lot, but I am a bit worried about air burping. Bear in mind that I don't have UST rims, I have mavic 117.
    A much loved, Giant Trance X3 2010
  • kenan
    kenan Posts: 952
    I run Maxxis on my big bike but want a faster rolling tyre on my HT, hence the Nobby Nic and Rubber Queen. I do plan to run the bigger bike tubeless in the future so its good to know it should be an eaiser process.
  • The Nevegals I was running were kevlar bead and I have done bothe the 2.1 and 2.35 tubeless with no problems however I would push you to give Maxxis Ardents a try they are a similar tread pattern but better in my opinion Also readily available in a wire bead. I prefer wire beaded tyres for tubeless as I don't worry about the bead popping off. Just so you know I run all these tyres on my Trek remedy (so a fairly big bike) I certainly dont take it slow on the downhills either.
    Yeti SB66c 2013
  • mherbie
    mherbie Posts: 16
    I had the x king racesports and couldn't get them to seal because of the sidewall, I eventually switched to the protection version which has a thicker sidewall.

    Recently I've read it's worth washing the inside of the tyre with fairy liquid which can help with removing the releasing agent and thus help the sealant bond to the sidewalls.

    Maxis tyres work well with tubeless too.
  • kenan
    kenan Posts: 952
    mherbie wrote:
    Recently I've read it's worth washing the inside of the tyre with fairy liquid which can help with removing the releasing agent and thus help the sealant bond to the sidewalls.

    I'v been searching the net and people have done the same with meths. Woth a go if the air won't hold.
  • havent heard that before but sounds like a pretty good idea.
    Yeti SB66c 2013
  • kenan
    kenan Posts: 952
    Issue now resolved.

    Turned out the valve core was leasking air, replaced and is now holding pressure.