cheap but decent disc brakes required please
daffyavfc
Posts: 237
Hi
Got some promax disc brakes on a hybrid that I bought 2nd hand recently.
I'm struggling to get them seated properly, especially on the near side where I'm not sure how far to move the pad in or out from the calliper with an allen key. Pads are knackered too and I'm not confident of either setting or keeping them.
So I'm wondering if I could get some cheap mechanical brakes for my work hybrid, no downhill antics, so thought I'd ask in the MTB forum as you guys will know your callipers,pads and rotors like the back of your hand, I hope .
Seen some Clarks DMB-8 which are cheap and cheerful, any good?? at £17:99 at CRC for a calliper and rotor I'm not expecting F1 braking but will they be OK for a 12 mile round trip commute on roads 3 times a week??
Got a marin muirwoods that has promax mechanical brakes at present
Also, can I but any size Rotor as there are 160's and 180's.
thanks
Got some promax disc brakes on a hybrid that I bought 2nd hand recently.
I'm struggling to get them seated properly, especially on the near side where I'm not sure how far to move the pad in or out from the calliper with an allen key. Pads are knackered too and I'm not confident of either setting or keeping them.
So I'm wondering if I could get some cheap mechanical brakes for my work hybrid, no downhill antics, so thought I'd ask in the MTB forum as you guys will know your callipers,pads and rotors like the back of your hand, I hope .
Seen some Clarks DMB-8 which are cheap and cheerful, any good?? at £17:99 at CRC for a calliper and rotor I'm not expecting F1 braking but will they be OK for a 12 mile round trip commute on roads 3 times a week??
Got a marin muirwoods that has promax mechanical brakes at present
Also, can I but any size Rotor as there are 160's and 180's.
thanks
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Avid BB7. End off topic."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
that might be so but they are £54 each on CRC not including the rotor (not sure if I need to change it) and at over £100 are out of my price range.
Any other thoughts, Tektro ones???
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=348220 -
If you mean this brake:
It's Tektro's equivalent to the Avid BB7, and it works just as well.
The Avid BB5 is also very good:
As are all of the Shimano mechanicals:
The Clark's (CMD-5 pictured) brakes are decent quality stoppers, especially with 180mm rotors (to compensate for the smaller pad size):
I rank the Clark's' below the Avids, Tektro and Shimanos simply because pad changes require unbolting the caliper halves.
Incidentally, the Promax brake caliper works best if you set the bite point somewhere in the first third of cable travel. If you set it too near the end then the cable bolt arm might snag and not be able to spring back properly.0 -
The Clarks (I run them on my commuter) are super light, my setup is lighter than the juicy5's on my MTB.
Get a used set of any of those above (ebay is your friend) and you'll be sorted, my daughter runs Promax and they are horrid, however she's only 7st so they provide enough stop for her, personally I'd also avoid Tektro i.o. both sets I've tried haven't been much better than the Promax.
As for adjusting, wind the pad out until it just starts to rub but the wheel spins freely.
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Thanks for that, whilst choosing and ordering the brakes I'll crack on trying to set these ones.
How important is aligning the calliper correctly first? I presume you allow an even gap each side of the rotor then fine tune the inner pad with the allen key then the cable moving pad last by pulling the cable through.0 -
Personally i'd avoid mechanical disc brakes like the plague..
Spend a little bit more for hydraulic, the difference is like night and day..Always remember.... Wherever you go, there you are.
Ghost AMR 7500 2012
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Parktools0 -
daffyavfc wrote:Thanks for that, whilst choosing and ordering the brakes I'll crack on trying to set these ones.
How important is aligning the calliper correctly first? I presume you allow an even gap each side of the rotor then fine tune the inner pad with the allen key then the cable moving pad last by pulling the cable through.
Very.
and NO.
download and read the manual."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
cable pull. road brake use a different amount."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
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Rushmore wrote:Personally i'd avoid mechanical disc brakes like the plague..
Spend a little bit more for hydraulic, the difference is like night and day..Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
The Beginner wrote:Rushmore wrote:Personally i'd avoid mechanical disc brakes like the plague..
Spend a little bit more for hydraulic, the difference is like night and day..
I had a BB7 on my DMR, it was very powerful. I'd consider them again, they're pricey though.0 -
The son has BB5's on his spesh (as standard) wants to upgrade to hydro's, but I've told him that going to say Juicy's isn't enough of an upgrade to make it worthwhile....in some ways they are better than Juicy's as you have more adjustment for feel using the 2 sides!
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0