cheap but decent disc brakes required please

daffyavfc
daffyavfc Posts: 237
edited January 2012 in MTB buying advice
Hi

Got some promax disc brakes on a hybrid that I bought 2nd hand recently.
I'm struggling to get them seated properly, especially on the near side where I'm not sure how far to move the pad in or out from the calliper with an allen key. Pads are knackered too and I'm not confident of either setting or keeping them.
So I'm wondering if I could get some cheap mechanical brakes for my work hybrid, no downhill antics, so thought I'd ask in the MTB forum as you guys will know your callipers,pads and rotors like the back of your hand, I hope :D .

Seen some Clarks DMB-8 which are cheap and cheerful, any good?? at £17:99 at CRC for a calliper and rotor I'm not expecting F1 braking but will they be OK for a 12 mile round trip commute on roads 3 times a week??

Got a marin muirwoods that has promax mechanical brakes at present

Also, can I but any size Rotor as there are 160's and 180's.

thanks

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Avid BB7. End off topic.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • daffyavfc
    daffyavfc Posts: 237
    that might be so but they are £54 each on CRC not including the rotor (not sure if I need to change it) and at over £100 are out of my price range.
    Any other thoughts, Tektro ones???
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=34822
  • bikaholic
    bikaholic Posts: 350
    If you mean this brake:

    tektro_aquila_brake.jpg



    It's Tektro's equivalent to the Avid BB7, and it works just as well.


    The Avid BB5 is also very good:

    avid_bb5_brake.jpg


    As are all of the Shimano mechanicals:

    shimano_br-m475_brake.jpg


    The Clark's (CMD-5 pictured) brakes are decent quality stoppers, especially with 180mm rotors (to compensate for the smaller pad size):

    clarks_cmd-5_bake.jpg



    I rank the Clark's' below the Avids, Tektro and Shimanos simply because pad changes require unbolting the caliper halves.

    Incidentally, the Promax brake caliper works best if you set the bite point somewhere in the first third of cable travel. If you set it too near the end then the cable bolt arm might snag and not be able to spring back properly.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The Clarks (I run them on my commuter) are super light, my setup is lighter than the juicy5's on my MTB.

    Get a used set of any of those above (ebay is your friend) and you'll be sorted, my daughter runs Promax and they are horrid, however she's only 7st so they provide enough stop for her, personally I'd also avoid Tektro i.o. both sets I've tried haven't been much better than the Promax.

    As for adjusting, wind the pad out until it just starts to rub but the wheel spins freely.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • daffyavfc
    daffyavfc Posts: 237
    Thanks for that, whilst choosing and ordering the brakes I'll crack on trying to set these ones.
    How important is aligning the calliper correctly first? I presume you allow an even gap each side of the rotor then fine tune the inner pad with the allen key then the cable moving pad last by pulling the cable through.
  • Rushmore
    Rushmore Posts: 674
    Personally i'd avoid mechanical disc brakes like the plague..

    Spend a little bit more for hydraulic, the difference is like night and day..
    Always remember.... Wherever you go, there you are.

    Ghost AMR 7500 2012
    De Rosa R838
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    VWsurfbum wrote:
    Don't think those will work with MTB levers.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    daffyavfc wrote:
    Thanks for that, whilst choosing and ordering the brakes I'll crack on trying to set these ones.
    How important is aligning the calliper correctly first? I presume you allow an even gap each side of the rotor then fine tune the inner pad with the allen key then the cable moving pad last by pulling the cable through.

    Very.

    and NO.

    download and read the manual.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    cooldad wrote:
    VWsurfbum wrote:
    Don't think those will work with MTB levers.
    correct.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • VWsurfbum
    VWsurfbum Posts: 7,881
    nicklouse wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    VWsurfbum wrote:
    Don't think those will work with MTB levers.
    correct.
    too late now but why?
    going on a Hybrid, fitments should be the same?
    Kazza the Tranny
    Now for sale Fatty
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    cable pull. road brake use a different amount.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • VWsurfbum
    VWsurfbum Posts: 7,881
    fair enough.
    Kazza the Tranny
    Now for sale Fatty
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Rushmore wrote:
    Personally i'd avoid mechanical disc brakes like the plague..

    Spend a little bit more for hydraulic, the difference is like night and day..
    You've clearly never tried Avid's BB5 or 7 which are just as good as low end hydro's......
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Rushmore wrote:
    Personally i'd avoid mechanical disc brakes like the plague..

    Spend a little bit more for hydraulic, the difference is like night and day..
    You've clearly never tried Avid's BB5 or 7 which are just as good as low end hydro's......

    I had a BB7 on my DMR, it was very powerful. I'd consider them again, they're pricey though.
    08 Pitch Pro
    14 Kona Unit
    Kona Kula SS
    Trailstar SS
    94 Univega Alpina 5.3
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The son has BB5's on his spesh (as standard) wants to upgrade to hydro's, but I've told him that going to say Juicy's isn't enough of an upgrade to make it worthwhile....in some ways they are better than Juicy's as you have more adjustment for feel using the 2 sides!

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.