Chain failure.

MarkDon

Well that was a waste of a day off work. Thought id pop over to do a lap of kielder today as weather was ok. 90mins of driving later, empty carpark, perfect. Get put on the path and the new tyres are performing well (panaracers), then i start to hear a clicking intermittently. A little while later and my gears start to jump, ive do e a grand total of 5m at this point where i decide to investigate as its getting annoying slipping going up hill. After a quick check i notice this...



So, whats caused that then? Im still a novice with regards to maintenance, the bike is 13mth old, got a few hundred miles done on it now and its been pretty good so far. So, im assuming i need a new chain? Or just replace the joint? In hindsight i should have had a chain tool and powerlink, but i own neather so will have to invest. Os there a chance ive killed the cassette, mechs etc?

Needless to say the walk back was very blue, i think i used ever swearword up about 20times.

Chunkers1980

I've never had a chain go like that, they have always just failed and fallen out.

Cheapest option is to just put a powerlink in there and see what happens.

Ghostt

Odd, maybe a rockstrike or similar when the chain was in the big ring at the front, cracked it and the link fell apart under normal loads? Might be a manufacturing fault, but then again, if it took 13 months to go I doubt it

Anonymous

For that you'd just pop it out and stick a powerlink in, continue to ride. Yeah, always carry powerlinks and chain tool.

Chains snap all the time. Fix and ride. Okay that's an odd way of it snapping, but I wouldn't worry. Powerlinks are fine to use and can get a lot more life out of a chain.

Only time to replace the chain is when it has stretched & worn. Need to check the chain length, especially after a few hundred miles. If it's heavily worn you may need to replace the cassette too. Could be why the chain went if you've got sharp teeth on the cogs perhaps (don't know if that really contributes to them going).

MarkDon

Ah ok, so will a sram link fit a shimano chain? Is it classed as a permanent fix?

MarkDon

Oh, and its not 13mth, i thought that seemed like a short time, 25mth old now. Think ive done about 350mes that i can account for.

Chunkers1980

Yes.

But due to typos can't be sure - you've done 350 miles in 25 months? - You need to ride some more!

Anonymous

Should fit Shimano though you'll see arguments for and against. Never heard of problems myself from those I know who do it, though I've read that 10 speed is more of a problem (not to mention 10 speed SRAM powerlinks aren't reusable).

Strictly speaking Shimano you have to mess about with those spare pin things.

Or get a KMC Missing Link, they're stated as good for Shimano, SRAM & KMC chains.

And yes, permanent fix in my book.

DodgeT

I've used SRAM powerlinks in shimano chain no probs. Again assuming its 9 speed. Otherwise you need a KMC.
Fit one then ride till something else breaks

MarkDon

Will give the sram a shot.

Poor milage is due to working away mon-fri and more recently our 7mth firstborn. Not done much for the last 10mth or so, been a tough time.

cooldad

I'd replace the chain, nice KMC one that comes with a masterlink.

386ka

A ridding buddy have had a chain failure like that in the middle of a climb. But, he continued to ride up the mountain, about 6 km 450m climb in the snow, and somehow it didn't snapped. I am still amazed how it held together, but he was careful with the torque though.

But, I would say it is a new chain time, would replace the link if the budget is tight.

MarkDon

Ok, so i got a link and a tool, replaced the link, all feels good.

While i was at it i realigned the calipers as they were both slightly catching, then took it out for a spin.

All ok, until i build up speed, and the gears start jumping again, sounds very 'grindy' too.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a good guide to indexing gears please? Or does this sound more like terminal damage to other parts?

Cheers.

cooldad

Parktools website has info on just about anything you need to do.

MarkDon

Aye, i had a look on there but i must be blind as i cant find it

cooldad

MarkDon wrote:

Aye, i had a look on there but i must be blind as i cant find it

The blue tab top right that says Repair Help. Can't have looked very well.

Anonymous

When you say gears are jumping, are they jumping up and down a gear, or is the chain skipping on the same gear cog?

If just skipping, not jumping up/down then chances it's simply that the chain is worn. Might find the cassette is too if the chain is heavily worn (you can replace just the chain and may find it still jumps).

http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

MarkDon

If im riding now its changing gear by itself if im going up hill or powering along. And if i want to change sometimes i have to click twice before it will actually change, and sometimes it changes ok, then goes back.

Cleaned the chain and gears etc, ends of cogs look polished, unlike the rest of the cogs(where the chain doesnt touch), the front mech is scratched on the inside edge too.

Appologies i couldnt see the info required on park site, i guess the web version looks different to the phone version.

Ive found a decent looking guide on the BR site, so will give tht a go when the baby goes to bed later.

Ouija

Had a chain go like that a couple of weeks ago climbing up Bickley Gate into Dalby. Had to ride all the way back to Scarborough trying not to put any power down in case the opposing side link broke too. Carry tools, just not a chain tool but never had one break before... and i slap in over 250miles a week.. so kinda figured i didn't need to lug one around. Do now though.. lol.

I'd guess that chains stretched some and you probably need a new one (and cassette too, if you don't want the new one slipping all the time).

As for your indexing problems... sure sign your cables are sticking in the outers, refusing to move (hence not moving until you've double clicked your shifters). New cables and outers would be nice. If your derailler isn't direct pull you might want to convert it to direct pull to solve the most common sticking problem (in the loop that goes from the end of the frame into the back of the derailler).

chez_m356

i've had 2 chains go exactly like the ops in the last 2 years, both were quite badly stretched

MarkDon

Shopping list...



This is getting expensive now!

Anonymous

MarkDon wrote:

This is getting expensive now!

Oh yes , this is just the beginning

MarkDon

Note to self : look after components better and do more routine maintenance.

Anything wrong with that list?

Anonymous

There will always be different opinions as to what to get.

Just shop around and look for deals, sales offers, check ebay too. Should be able to get some stuff cheaper.

allen.coulson

What has happened is that, for some reason, during the ride...I cannot go on...

I'm afraid that you have become gay and your tyres have turned pink as a sort of vulcanised celebration.

Sort of congratulations.

MarkDon

Ummmmmm, yeh, thanks for that informative post, made total sense.

Tit.

cooldad

I blame the crack. And Wiggle.

But a bit of shopping around and you can knock £20-£30 off your total.

Ouija

Any particular reason you want the new deraillers?

MarkDon

I thought i'd get the front because the guide the chain goes through is badly marked, looks like when the chain went the damaged link was catching on it.

Rear because the jockey wheels look worn and im using deore at the minute so thought id change everything to slx at the same time.

Anonymous

Can replace them, up to you. Front almost certainly just needs the indexing sorted out to ensure the chain doesn't rub the mech.

Rear jockeys can be replaced when worn. They'll wear far more than the mech itself and it's costly to replace the mech just when they're worn. If you want blingy, KCNC (arguably better wearing but not sure. Trying them myself at the moment).

But if you're on a mission to replace them with SLX then fair enough.

Personally I'd do one bit at a time and just ride to see how it feels.

D4V1D

What would be the best tool to carry which would be capable of handling this problem. I'm right in thinking it would have to grind the head off the link which is still attached. I have a chain tool but I think its only good for pushing out my joining pin. so I don't think it wouldn't be able to handle this job. I don't want to be caught out by this type of problem.