Tub Puncture Repair?

Cornish-J
Cornish-J Posts: 978
edited September 2014 in Road buying advice
Do you get the same products available to repair punctures as you do clinchers? i.e. the foam cannisters etc (for on the road repairs)

Do these foam type products then render the tub unrepairable after use? i.e. can the tub be stitched after the foam etc has been used?

Do any of these products inflate a tub to anything near it's recommended pressure - around 160-180psi?

many thanks
J

Comments

  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    There are a number of sealant options that you can either inject into the tyre prior to use, e.g. Tufo, Stans or Cafe Latex or some that you apply after a puncture. Depends on the make of the tyre and the effectivity of the product i.e. some are formulated for butyl tubes (e.g. Tufo) and others for latex. I've had great success using Tufo Extreme Sealant with Tufo CX tubs. BTW inflating tubs to 160psi plus doesn't really provide any benefit on the road and will probably just make the ride harsher and more likely to puncture.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • Pseudonym
    Pseudonym Posts: 1,032
    In my experience, the Tufo sealant starts to let go once you get further than about 80psi. Like Monty says, running tubs at 180psi is just daft...
  • Cornish-J
    Cornish-J Posts: 978
    I run my planet x TT wheels at 180psi - but for road riding, what would you guys suggest? 120-140 (same as clincher?)

    to put in to context - i'm looking at a set of zipp tubs to use as my daily wheels - i know tubs are more of a pain in the ass than clinchers but i need to know that if i get a puncture out on the road then i can at least get it to a rideable state i.e. just to crawl home.
  • danowat
    danowat Posts: 2,877
    Agree about the pressure thing, 160-180psi is way to high IMO, I run my TT wheels with tubs at 120-130psi max, and then thats on smooth roads.

    As for puncturing, I punctured a tub last year and used a Vittoria pitstop can on it, it was shite and started blowing the sealant out at anything over 50psi.

    If you are intent on using tubs for daily wheels (something I'd never do personally), then carry a spare tub, only way you can be sure of getting back IMO.
  • Pseudonym
    Pseudonym Posts: 1,032
    unless you're particularly heavy, I would try running all your wheels at between 90-110. I'm around 71-72kg and tend to run clinchers at around 90. The highest I will go with tubs is about 110, and that's for smooth circuits...
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    You'd be bouncing the wheels all over the road at those pressures - can you feel them skipping ?
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    I weigh 82kg and I run Continental GP4000s clincher tyres on carbon rims. Rear 110psi and front 90psi. If it is wet I drop the rearto 100psi and the front to 85psi. Anything harder than that and the ride is very firm. Be careful with pressures much above 120psi as many clinchers state a maximum somewhere around that mark.

    I run these wheels and tyres all year round (just training, no commuting) and they have all the benefits of their tub equivalents apart from being slightly heavier. Having said that they are a very light hand built wheel, with Superlight Conti tubes and are probably lighter than most clinchers out there already.

    I have tubs on my TT bike and would never contemplate running them at anywhere near 160psi, let alone 180psi on the road. I value my teeth and 'soft bits' too much!

    In my opinion if you are going to run tubs all the time you need to carry a spare tub. Having said that, what if you hit a pothole/ debris that punctures both at the same time? That has happened to me on my clinchers, but the Conti Superlight tubes are so small when wrapped up that two of them take up little more room than one normal tube and certainly a lot less room than one rolled up tub. Add to this the fact that you can cut up a length of old clincher to carry a couple of spare 4" pieces of tyre to plug any hole from the inside and you have a 'get me home' kit for two wheels if you carry a couple of small Park tyre levers and some CO2 canisters/ mini pump. The equivalent for tubs is going to be much bigger, unless the sealant stuff can bridge bigger holes too...

    So IMHO I just can't see the point in running tubs everyday (which I used to do as a teenager). You may be lucky like I was back then and never get a puncture, or you may not be...!

    PP
  • Cornish-J
    Cornish-J Posts: 978
    I only weigh 63kg - i've been cycling 2 years now and never had a puncture *touch wood* but i do consider myself very lucky.

    I'm not going to cater for a real unlucky situation (like 2 punctures in one hit) - if that happens then i'll just call a family member or something to come pick me up or taxi etc.
    I just want to know that there's a product out there (like pit stop for example) that will see me home.

    Also, no one has answered this yet - when using a foam or something, is the tub still re-stichable afterwards?
  • Pseudonym
    Pseudonym Posts: 1,032
    I guess nobody answered because we were all a bit distracted by your tyre pressures....

    the outer will be re-stitchable, but it's not the outer you need to worry about. The inner may or may not be repairable, depending on the sealant you use and its potential reaction with the patch that will need to go on the inner...

    These days I would rather run my tubs without sealant and know I can get them repaired.
  • Cornish-J
    Cornish-J Posts: 978
    I've always been of the understanding that you should run tyres to pretty much their max pressure?

    Why wouldnt you run them at near max pressure? Manufacturers will of course give themselves plenty of lee-way in terms of 'safe' levels of pressure..
  • Pseudonym
    Pseudonym Posts: 1,032
    Cornish-J wrote:
    I've always been of the understanding that you should run tyres to pretty much their max pressure?

    Why wouldnt you run them at near max pressure? Manufacturers will of course give themselves plenty of lee-way in terms of 'safe' levels of pressure..

    the number stated on the side of the tyre is usually the maximum 'safe' pressure. It doesn't mean you should run it at that. Just because an aircraft has a maximum ceiling of 60,000ft, doesn't mean it needs to fly at that height all the time. I'm sorry to say your understanding is wrong.
  • Cornish-J
    Cornish-J Posts: 978
    can you explain why not?
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    Have you ridden a bike on UK roads with 180psi of pressure in it? And the same tyre with 110psi? Try it and see which ride you prefer.

    Optimum tyre pressures are based around a number of factors including tyre size, width, rider weight etc etc. search T'interweb for details and that will reveal all. Each to their own though, if you insist on running 160-180psi then good luck.

    PP

    p.s. which tubs have a 'recommended' pressure so high?
  • Cornish-J
    Cornish-J Posts: 978
    I ride my TT's at 180psi - i dont care about ride comfort, i just want max speed.

    i ride my road bike at 110-120psi - dont notice anything wrong with the ride comfort etc
  • Cornish-J
    Cornish-J Posts: 978
    ps - my tt tubs are corsa cx evo
    road - gp4000s
  • Pseudonym
    Pseudonym Posts: 1,032
    Cornish-J wrote:
    I ride my TT's at 180psi - i dont care about ride comfort, i just want max speed.

    jeezuz - where is the 'facepalm' smiley when you need one.....
  • Cornish-J
    Cornish-J Posts: 978
    again, do you want to explain why?

    or would rather just be a nob? :)
  • At that sort of pressure every time you hit an imperfection in the road the wheel will bounce up into the air a little bit - when it is in the air it cannot transfer any power to the road. Also the discomfort of getting all that road buzz passed up into your arse/arms will probably cause you to lose some power output over longer rides.

    It's a hotly debated subject but a lot of people are of the opinion that higher pressure does not equal reduced rolling resistance, mainly due to the bounching effect that I mentioned above.

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  • Cornish-J
    Cornish-J Posts: 978
    Thanks for the explaination - be interesting to know what the pressures the pros ride.
  • Pseudonym
    Pseudonym Posts: 1,032
    Cornish-J wrote:
    or would rather just be a nob? :)

    mate - I'm not the one running 180psi in my road tyres.... ;)
  • Cornish-J
    Cornish-J Posts: 978
    and yet still havent explained why its a bad idea - why not try and offer some advice/help instead of saying the same thing about 4 times?

    easy to critisize....
  • Pseudonym
    Pseudonym Posts: 1,032
    you've already been told why - I don't feel the need to repeat what others have already told you.

    Easy to criticise, not so easy to spell it.....
  • Cornish-J
    Cornish-J Posts: 978
    Thanks to all who helped - i think i have enough info to make an informed decision.

    J
  • danowat
    danowat Posts: 2,877
    Sealant will mess the vavle up, aswell as the inner tube, its a one shot only thing, the tub is ruined after you've used it.

    As for pressure, 180psi won't be any faster than 120psi, in the real world, infact, 180psi is likely to be slower as the tyre will be skipping all over the place and it will be harder to keep the bike steady, you will also suffer poor grip on corners.

    Tubs are lovely to ride, don't ruin that ride with excessive pressures.
  • Cornish-J wrote:
    Thanks for the explaination - be interesting to know what the pressures the pros ride.

    http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/tyre-pressure-21-days-of-tour-tech-41808/