Fixed rear wheel alignment.

symo

Dear Forum,

Last night whilst riding home my rear wheel altered suddenly out of centre. I had to disengage the rear vee brake to ride the last 2 miles home.

On inspection I discovered the rear wheel on the fixed gear was out of centre; so following the advice of Sheldon (may he rest in peace) I walked the wheel about. However I was having no joy in centring the wheel. Any suggestions as I had to ride this morning without a rear brake?

Lots of love

Symo

EDIT:
PS Does anyone know how to replace the allen key headed bolts on the rear of the Genesis Day One (flat bar 2010)? they appear to be made of play doh as my decent quality allen keys are rounding out the heads.

Gussio

If the axel is moving in the dropouts, fitting a chaintug on the driveside may solve your problem. If there is deformation of the wheel, then TBH I'd be taking it to the LBS for an inspection.

If accesible and with a raised enough head, Allen bolt might be removed by using a hacksaw blade to cut a slot then using a screwdriver to unscrew. Otherwise, LBS might be able to remove it for you.

Good luck

Blue Meanie

Best suggestion is to learn to modulate your speed using your legs, ffs it's a fixed. Admittedly I have a front brake, but it's on it's original pads since 2007. I cycle uphill/downhill and through traffic never using my (front and only) brake apart from when really tired or if I get caught out. Maybe try out your local track for some brakeless fun. Learn to do fixie skids ,experiment on grass (of the lawn variety) and if required have a beer or two to relax you into a few falls/offs. I'm a ex-courier and have the spoke cards to prove it.

Drill the head off the bolt, remove wheel and clamp stud in a vice. Get decent high tensile bolts and fit them instead. Try to keep your threads greased to some extent. Chain tugs are good.

Once your bolts work, try tightening one side then the other whilst 'walking the wheel'; it works but beware overtightening and bending your axle or twisting your track-forks. Or have two chain tugs and err, tug your chain/wheel straight.

My mistake: Rode home last month and approached the descent into my hometown, riding at 30mph with a 70" gear means cadence is around 150bpm. As I approached a hump back bridge there was a car coming the other way and the road signs say I should defer unless I get there first so I sped up to around 33mph (165bpm) which is somewhat beyond my ability to maintain a smooth pedalling action. Chain came off (was slack, unlubed and all a bit dirty) and locked the rear wheel. I didn't brake and slid the bike for about 6-8secs (50/60yds) through the pinch point and over the bridge before I put it down. Bit of a bruise, but I beat the car. <-What an idiot, oops. Moral of the story? Don't listen to me. :-)

symo

Thanks for the replies, bendertherobot had similar issues and PM'd me with his solution and the LBS has provided some allen key bolts in SS to replace the cheese like genesis ones.

Also please read my OP where I explained my awareness and use of walking the wheel.

As for skid stopping I take it you mean shifting all weight onto the stem and locking up? Can't do it, mainly because of all the weight that I have in the rear panniers keeping the back wheel firmly in contact with the ground.