Real world bike questions

AndyMalone

Hi,

I'm just going through the stages of getting my first bike at the moment (you may have seen a few posts) but I have a couple of questions that I'm hoping some of you will be able to comment on...

Firstly, the real world difference in bikes. As I've been going through the research process I've read lots about various frames, component sets, etc... and I wondered how much difference they actually make to the beginner cyclist? I suppose this comes from seeing things like the Giant Defy and Synapse bikes at hugely reduced prices with things like Shimano 2300 and Sora sets on. I completely understand that these aren't the best quality bits of kit but I wondered – outside of the important desire to own good stuff! – how much difference these actually make when riding? Which bits of a bike are the most essential to 'get right' and which bits are the 'nice to haves'?

On a similar vein I wondered about frame geometries. I've been looking at the synapse because I want something to break me into road cycling without too much initial discomfort. I'd eventually like to do some racing with the local club, I'd also like to do some longer rides (possibly a coast to coast for example). By reading the reviews they make it sound like the difference between say the Synapse and Giant would be vast. In fact in some cases it sounds like you basically need a specific bike for each and every type of ride you ever plan to do. How much actual difference in ride does a few degrees or millimeters here on there make? (I'm not saying it doesn't by the way, just keen to know just how much impact these things have).

And finally... upgrading... one thing I thought about as an option was picking up something reasonable but cheap (lets say hypothetically a 2011 Giant 3/4) and then looking to get some upgrades later on, so maybe buy some 105 parts, wheels etc... to bolt onto the frame as my own experience and ability grows. I just wondered, in peoples experience, does this end up costing substantially more? Or is it much better to just get the level of bike I'll need for say the next 2 years immediately?

I guess the real reason for these questions is that I'm really trying to strike a balance between the money I spend on my intro bike vs the features/kit that I will really need in the first 6-18 months of riding.

Thanks in advance for any comments or input.

Nairnster

Yo would be better of looking at least the defy 2 from 2011 if thats what your after, as they come with better forks (i think i read 800g lighter) and components, and can be had for about £460 at the moment.

Sora is perfectly fine for a newbie, I had a road bike years ago with Tiagra, and dont find Sora any worse in actual function.

I love my Defy 2, but am planning on new wheels and a 105 groupset in the summer. The bike will not then need to be upgraded as far as I am concerned, as I will never be racing etc, and it will be light enough for my needs

petemadoc

Components - If we're just talking shimano then I'd say 105 is the min spec you should be looking for at bikes around the 1K mark. If you buy a bike with anything lower you'll end up upgrading later which will cost more in the end. 2300 just feels a bit cr4p, Sora you can't change up a gear from the drops, you could say that tiagra is sufficient.

Unlikely you'd want to race on a relaxed geo bike like the synapse but I'm sure people probably have. Might be better with something a little more aggressive and leave some spacers under the stem while you get used to the position. No need for a bike for every occasion. Best to ride some different bikes and see how they feel. Bear in mind that you'll probably make many adjustments to your final position at a later date anyways. Stem, seat position etc can all be tweeked.

In a financial sense the only upgrades worth doing on a bike are the wheels and saddle, get the frame and groupset you can afford now as buying a complete bike nearly always offers the best value.

If your budget is tight then look for a 2nd hand bike with tiagra or 105. Should be able to get something decent sub £500 if you keep an eye out

RonB

I can well understand the interest in upgrades and making sure that you have "recognisable" components. But if this is all about starting out, if you do get hooked after a couple of years or so you will be heading for the n+1 principle and thinking about a whole new bike, which you could justify because of your miles out on the road, fitness etc. Then your first bike would perhaps be ideally suited for the winter and the next one could be saved for warmer months.

Anyways, good luck with your search.

northpole

I don't think the geometry is as important as some make it out to be and I suspect you will be well through your first year of riding before you'll be in a position to fully appreciate the differences (that was my experience). If you are young and flexible, go for the more aggressive geometry, particularly if you have racing in mind.

In terms of components, I wouldn't recommend anyone buy a bike with less than 105 or veloce - these were the traditional starting points for both companies, the cheaper ranges appearing more to suit price points in the market and cycle to work schemes where people wanted bikes and the clothing to go with them.

If it were me, I'd pick out a few preferred models and then scour the classifieds and fleabay, getting whichever comes up at a decent price in the right size. It's a good way of getting much more for your ££ provided you are able to view before parting with money. (Assuming you aren't looking to buy through a cycle to work scheme).

Peter

AndyMalone

Thanks all. Very helpful.

I do think that my 'long term plan' is to get something now which is comfortable and winter friendly with a full on summer race bike down the line in a year or so once I can justify it. I'm definitely the sort of person prone to n+1 syndrome!

I'm going to trawl some bike shops today and try a few things out. Cheers.

sungod

go secondhand, you'll get far better spec. for your money

i'd suggest something 10-speed, compact chainset, shimano or sram, with a steel or good aluminium frame, there're plenty out there

a low cost new bike will probably have a fairly heavy frame, there's not much you can do to upgrade that

you do need to know what size to look for

stick to sources where it's likely to have been looked after properly, for instance cycling weekly ads, or the bikeradar for sale section if it's from a regular

be wary of gumtree, stolen bikes are fenced there, ebay is better in that respect but only use a safe payment method

Crankbrother

The synapse frame would def. stand upgrading, you'll take the hit on things like chainset and brakes initially but they can be changed for £100 once the summer and better weather arrives ...

Try and get something with Mavic Aksium wheels as a minimum ... They do a job, but will also have some resale value over some no name or built up wheels ...

Either that or spend £250 on a second hand Allez or Giant ... Ride it for a year then buy the exact bike for what you need it for whilst still being able to sell the first bike for £200 if you don't trash it ...

You'd be better off with a cheapish new bike than a mid range 2nd hand one ... It'll always feel like someone elses bike and if you spend a decent amount on it it'll be hard to justify ( and maybe afford) an improvement ...

chorlton chimp

You are , where I was a few months back.

I wanted a comfy bike so narrowed the choice down to Secteur, Synapse and Trek 1.2 which were all discounted down to my budget of £600. For mainly aesthetic reasons and wanting to start off with a triple chainset I ended up going for the Secteur sport and have been very pleased with the purchase. That being said I have nothing to compare it with apart from my heavy Claud Butler hybrid.

I have found Sora to be adequate for my needs although as posted above it is difficult, although not impossible to use the thumb shifters while riding on the drops. If you have small hands you probably won't bde able to reach the thumb levers. It's not much of an issue for me as I seldom use the drops.

A few weeks ago a mate bought a 2011 Synapse Tiagra - he is also very happy with it - the Tiagra shifters are definitely better than Sora as they are easier to access on the drops.

Lastly, the third member of our cycling group managed to buy a 2011 Cube Attempt for £750 which is 105 equipped and comes with a decent wheelset and tyres. It's certainly the best equipped bike of the three and I believe Wiggle still has a few for £700.

Garry H

The most important thing will be the frame, make sure it fits you and your needs.

Groupset wise, I've had Sora on a winter bike and to be honest it's more than adequate, mine never missed a beat in two years, although I did keep it in good running order. The biggest criticism I had of it was that the brakes were poor (it's also quite heavy). True, that you may not be able to shift up from the drops, but unless you're actuaally racing with it, then it will make no difference. If you don't have the necessary coordination to move your hands a couple of inches to a position where you can change up, then you probably shouldn't be riding a bike on the open roads.

If, however, you can afford a bike with 105, then go for that, but don't compromise on the frame just to get a better groupset. Happy hunting.

siamon

There are significant real world differences between manufacturers of road bikes, maybe not to the extent the tests suggest but the differences are easily identifiable. I reckon that if all branding was removed I could tell whether it was a Giant, Trek, Scott, Cannondale, Cervelo etc within 50 metres of riding it. They have consistencies throughout each brands range. Some people say this is bollox but I reckon they must ride in work boots and have no feel whatsoever.

All Madone's feel more similar to a 6.9 madone than they do to the their equivalent priced Cannodale or Scott or whatever.

I expect to get murdered for the last statement but is a fact.