Maxxis Minion Dilema

jonnyashworth
jonnyashworth Posts: 547
edited January 2012 in MTB buying advice
For the past 6 months I have been running A maxxis minion DHF 2.35 60A Single Ply Kevlar Bead up front on my remedy with a High Roller 2.35 60A Wire out back. I run both tyers tubeless with stans and they have never gone down but it does make it a bugger to chop and change tyers (So I obviously like a tyer that works well all year)

I have loved the Minion as it wears slowly and gives me all the grip I need. Plus it rolls pretty quickly and even with the single ply it works well at low pressures. All in all the High roller has been great too. As all who use them will know it does have a bit of a vague area in mid lean that can lead to severe sphincter tightening at high speeds :lol:

Anyway its now time for me to replace the HR but am not sure weather to go for the Maxxis Minion 2.35 60A Single Ply Kevlar Bead DHR or DHF on my rear wheel??? Has anybody got first hand experience of these tyers so they could give me an educated description of how they ride / compare to each other as a rear tyer.

(Long gone are the times where I would buy both, try them and bung the one I didnt like in the shed!!!! RUBBER AINT CHEAP NO MORE!!!)
Yeti SB66c 2013

Comments

  • Clank
    Clank Posts: 2,323
    Matter of choice - I'm afriad!

    I currently run the DHF and DHR combo (kevlar, 60a, 2.35) and it's working for me. Back wheel breaks before the front does and seems reasonabley predictable - sufficient grip at mid lean, but it drops off quick as the angle increases beyond that as the knobbles tend to squirm a fair bit. I am pushing about 15st through 'em, through. However there's many here running the DHF front and rear now, but I've not tried that myself (would like to, though) - as you said, rubber ain't cheap!

    Watching with interest!
    How would I write my own epitaph? With a crayon - I'm not allowed anything I can sharpen to a sustainable point.

    Disclaimer: Opinions expressed herein are worth exactly what you paid for them.
  • ilovedirt
    ilovedirt Posts: 5,798
    Always go for the DHF, the DHR is supposed to be faster rolling (it isn't, really), and as such has less side tread, and can get a little sideways. The DHF is much better in corners.
    Production Privee Shan

    B'Twin Triban 5
  • cheers okay next question..... is there a big difference in size between the 2.35 and the 2.5?? as the 2.35 comes up very narrow
    Yeti SB66c 2013
  • ilovedirt
    ilovedirt Posts: 5,798
    the 2.5 is fairly large, wouldn't want bigger than that for an XC tyre.
    Production Privee Shan

    B'Twin Triban 5
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I've always thought the DHR is more for actually doing DH, whereas the DHF is used for all kinds, at least up front. I don't do much DH but have the DHF on all the time.

    I've heard to do DHF on the back run backwards. No idea how that works.

    Any reason why not just another HR?

    There's also the HR II, which seems only to be 2.40
  • ilovedirt
    ilovedirt Posts: 5,798
    deadkenny wrote:
    I've always thought the DHR is more for actually doing DH, whereas the DHF is used for all kinds, at least up front. I don't do much DH but have the DHF on all the time.
    It just stands for "downhill front" and "downhill rear", doesn't really mean anything apart from the tread pattern.
    Production Privee Shan

    B'Twin Triban 5
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Yeah I know, it's just that whilst most run DHF for any kind of trail, I usually hear of people picking DHR if they are actually doing DH. Typically DHF is paired with another DHF or HR for general use I find.
  • ilovedirt
    ilovedirt Posts: 5,798
    Most downhillers I know (those that run minions anyway) run DHF front and rear, the DHR isn't a great tyre really.
    I'm currently rocking a minion DHF and DHR on mine, probably get rid of the DHR when i can afford to though. (or when it wears out)
    Production Privee Shan

    B'Twin Triban 5