Fork install

simz720
simz720 Posts: 17
edited January 2012 in Workshop
Hi there, I am about to install some forks on my road bike. I just wanted to know what is the best way to remove my old fork and install the new ones and what tools I am going to require. :?:

I have a cartridge headset if this helps !?

Comments

  • With Aheadset forks you only really need an allen key or 2. Have you ever stripped down your headset or replaced the bearings? If so then fitting a fork should be just like this. Your main problem will be in cutting the steerer to length. There has been plenty of discussion on cutting steerers to length, if it is aluminium then a hacksaw will be OK.If it is carbon you migth need a special blade. Ceramic tile blades will work.
    Lastly, don't take this the wrong way, but if you have to ask, you might need a bit more experience/ help to do a safety related job like this. Try your LBS who will probably charge very little and allow you to watch to gain experience.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    I'd get your LBS to at least remove / install the headset crown race as that has the highest risk of damage should you get it wrong.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • simz720
    simz720 Posts: 17
    Yes, I was going to go to a bike shop to have the Crown Race installed. As far as the steerer tube is concerned it is cf but the steerer tube itself is not too long and I have ordered plenty of spacers so I should be fine on that front. And I am basically going to strip my bike right down to the frame and rebuild it.
    But thank for the help anyway
  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    If you are getting the crown race done, then its very simple indeed:

    Get a work stand or something to support the bike when it hasn't got a front wheel or forks on. You'll need grease, degreaser, WD or similar, allen keys, a torque wrench and a tray or oven dish to hold bolts and stuff when you take them off.

    If your bolts are ragged, then now is the time to change them.

    Clean everything external spotless before you start.

    Take off the wheel, front brake, stem, spacers and head set preload bolt and cap - no need to take off bars or anything like that.

    Put all bolts in the tray, give them a good degrease, spray with WD or similar to get rid if remaining clag, wipe down, leave in their spotless and safe.

    Slap the old forks out using the palm of your hand - if they are tight a rubber or hide mallet gently tap the top of the steerer once or twice and they will pop out.

    Grease up all the races and bearings, slide the new forks in. Make sure you have installed the bearings correctly - some are single sided: ie a spinny side and a sitty side. Have a look at which is which as you take them out but it should be pretty easy to spot.

    Once the forks are in, pop in the spacers you want below the stem, pop on the stem with the newly cleaned and greased bolts, and do up finger tight at the most: you're only doing it up to hold it on and not to put any pressure anywhere.

    Fit newly cleaned and greased front brake and nut thing.

    Get the newly cleaned and greased top cap and pre-load bolt, pop them in them do up the bolt until you reach the first bit of resistance. Take the bike off the work stand, hold it up then apply the front brake and rock the bike backwards and forwards: the bike should rock on the loose bearings.

    Tighten the pre-load bolt half a turn at a time until there is no forwards/backwards rocking movement but the bars still swing completely freely left and right full lock (you should be able top pick up the bike and the front will flop around). Any resistance here them loosen off a tad.

    I then do the bolt up half a turn but I don't think you really need to do this.

    Get torque wrench and do up stem bolts to correct torque setting. Do them a bit at a time each one otherwise the clamping will be out - ie three turns top, three turns bottom, etc etc.

    Really you want either no or one 5mm spacer on top of the stem, minimum of spacers underneath so maybe worth getting the fork steerer cut when you are 100% sure what length you want it at.

    Leave bike to one side, go for an espresso, come back and give everything a look over to make sure that all is cool.

    HTH

    Y
  • simz720
    simz720 Posts: 17
    Thanks Yossie, for really good instructions and taking the time to write that, I appreciate it mate.
  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    Pleasure - no worries at all.

    Essentially all this stuff is very simple if you just take your time and look at it logically - it all slots together like a big Meccano set and its not like you're building an engine or a gearbox so you can't go too wrong.

    Any problems, post back here and someone will help out.

    Y