Tacx Sirius Turbo Trainer Assembly query

Thebigbee
Thebigbee Posts: 570
edited December 2011 in The workshop
Hi,

got a Tacx Sirius trainer for Xmas and thought I'd try working a few of the pounds I put on, off.

Just finished assembling it and followed the instructions to the best of my ability. The only problem that I thought I had faced was the fact that I only had 1 13mm spanner so tightening up the bolt that holds the mag unit was a bit of a pain so isn't exactly tightly done up but it says that the mag unit still has to be able to move.

Swapped the quick release over and fitted the bike. Thought that was odd but then remembered the handle. Pushed it down which raised the mag unit. Unfortunately it is still about 2-3mm off the wheel which is kind of annoying!

The bike is a Specialized Alez so was under the impression I didn't need to use the spacer kit.

Has anyone got any ideas where I have gone wrong and any advice to rectify?

Thanks in advance for any help, cheers

Comments

  • You have used the first (most forward) pair of holes to mount the mag unit?
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc
  • Yes - the bolt is through that hole. That's right isn't it?
  • Yup, right.
    There should be a black knob underneath the blue lever, turn this anti-clockwise to raise flywheel. Hope this works.
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc
  • If it does work, you should try to set a 'base resistance':
    1) Inflate tyre with a pump with a gauge to an arbitrary pressure, say 100psi
    2) Set turbo's resistance to zero/nil/lowest
    3) Put bike into Big ring and 7th on the cassette (any gear on the back, but choose big ring)
    4) Get on bike and pedal upto 100bpm cadence
    5) Stop pedalling and measure how long it takes for the rear wheel to stop, repeat 2-3 times and avg time

    If done correctly, and checked prior to each session you can get 'standards' to set yourself against, or go very scientific, or get so bored you go cycling at 10pm, in the dark, in the rain, in the...

    Have a read of this link:
    http://mr-miff-on-tour.blogspot.com/201 ... rance.html
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc
  • Yup, right.
    There should be a black knob underneath the blue lever, turn this anti-clockwise to raise flywheel. Hope this works.

    Hi - only just read this reply after buying 2 13mm spanners on Ebay earlier as was convinced that I would have to take the whole bolt out and start from scratch and didn't fancy rounding off the heads and scratching the turbo any more than I had on my bodge do up.

    Thanks so much for posting! I was assuming that the black knob HAD to be tight so didn't even attempt that. 2 turns and the wheel is right on it!

    FFS - I know I am pretty dumb but would it really be that hard to mention that in their frigging instructions?! Something along the lines of, "when assembled and bike in position it may be necessary to adjust the fly wheel height by turning the black knob anti- clockwise until it engages"!!

    Thanks again - I feel like a right spanner especially that I spent £4 on them. Lucky that someone knew what I was actually talking about as doesn't make any sense if you have no experience.

    Cheers
  • If it does work, you should try to set a 'base resistance':
    1) Inflate tyre with a pump with a gauge to an arbitrary pressure, say 100psi
    2) Set turbo's resistance to zero/nil/lowest
    3) Put bike into Big ring and 7th on the cassette (any gear on the back, but choose big ring)
    4) Get on bike and pedal upto 100bpm cadence
    5) Stop pedalling and measure how long it takes for the rear wheel to stop, repeat 2-3 times and avg time

    If done correctly, and checked prior to each session you can get 'standards' to set yourself against, or go very scientific, or get so bored you go cycling at 10pm, in the dark, in the rain, in the...

    Have a read of this link:
    http://mr-miff-on-tour.blogspot.com/201 ... rance.html

    Thanks for the link and advice - will start getting into some of the programmes when all up and running.

    Main newbie question is should I be in big ring all the time on the trainer and just change resistance on mag unit?

    Was going to use middle ring - not entirely sure why - aesthetics? Is big ring the way to go and just stay on that?

    thanks again
  • Small spinny gears will build endurance.
    Big resistance gears for strength.
    Alter cadences to boost your 'gallup'.
    Interval training for recovery rate.
    10-15secs flat out, then stop pedalling and stand with bent legs to increase your body's ability to endure lactate.
    One legged drills.
    So much fun to be had :-) Best thing is just try and use it regulary. If you can identify an area you want to work on for a specific event then you can target it on a turbo. Best of luck.
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc