Stans' ZTR Crest/Nobby Nic UST set up

Hairylegs66
Hairylegs66 Posts: 103
edited December 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi to all!
I am in the process of going tubeless on my Malt 1. Having always used tubes up until now I am overwhelmed with all the conflicting/confusing advice on the web about what I actually need to do the job properly. Merlin Cycles have built me a set of Stan's ZTR Crest on XT hubs, I have bought the Stan's valves for ZTR rims and a pair of Nobby Nic Evos that are UST ready. I have also bought a presta adaptor for my air compressor at home to help inflate/seat the tyre beads. Apart from soapy water and strong thumbs, is there anything else I need to consider buying? Do I really need to fill the tyres up with a sealant too (as per Schwalbe's instructions that came with the tyres?) Is the Stans' sealant injector/applicator worth an extra tenner? Do I need to fit the Stan's yellow tape as well or is that just for non UST rims?
I would really welcome any advice before tackling this before I make a huge mess and potentially trash all my new kit in the process!!
Many thanks,

Comments

  • styxd
    styxd Posts: 3,234
    You need some yellow tape, Stans rims arent UST.
  • Ok, thanks for that.
  • Steve_b77
    Steve_b77 Posts: 1,680
    As above you'll need the yellow tape, search youtube for how to install it correctly.

    Then add the required amount of Stans sealant as stated on the side of the bottle, you'll be needing this to seal any holes you get from punctures, UST tyres are not puncture proof
  • with regards to the sealant injector you can if you really want to. but the small 60ml bottles of stans fluid fit in the valve pretty well (with the core removed obviously)

    when i did mine i used the soapy water on the rim and tyre beads, seated fully with air compresser, again with the presta valve core removed for greater airflow.

    then i added in the 60ml of sealant, 1 bottle per tyre, replaced valve core, pumped up to 30psi and then commenced with the spin, rotate and shake method to try and get the sealant into all the little holes.

    left over night on a bucket, next morning turned over and pumped back up to 30psi if it had deflated considerably, (which mine didnt).

    or you can stick them in the bike and go for a quick ride round.
    2011 KHS Full Susser Carbon 29er Race Build
    Clank wrote:
    M'eh, I might just go back to zapping it with frikken lay-zur beeeems. And sharks.
  • oh and you may find that the Nobby nics are nigh on impossible to get on. alot of people are saying you cant fit 2011 model UST nic's onto Crest rims as Schwalbe have made the inner diameter smaller.
    2011 KHS Full Susser Carbon 29er Race Build
    Clank wrote:
    M'eh, I might just go back to zapping it with frikken lay-zur beeeems. And sharks.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    They are fecking tight, but I've fitted several 2011 Schwalbes to my Crests and Podiums, all done with hand and no soapy water, but they are tight.

    You won't need a compressor or sealant injector or anything, fit one side of tyre, scoop of sealant, other side of tyre, depress tyre around valve, pump. Very very easy.
  • You need Stans Olympic valves, Yellow tape and Stans Sealant.

    There's no such tyres as 'UST Ready'. They're either UST (don't need sealant) ot Tubeless ready (do). Either way, the rims aren't UST (hence the yellow tape) so you need sealant either way.

    No point buying the injector IMO, just unseat one of the beads and scoop the stuff in.

    I'd reccommend fitting the yellow tape and mounting the tyre with a tube first and leaving overnight to 'pre-form' the tyre and help stick the tape to the rim.

    Finally, watch all the video's on the Stans site prior to going for it !
  • Thanks everyone for the tips and advice. For the moment I have mounted the Nobby Nics with tubes on the rims as I won't get them done tubeless before the Xmas break. And yes they were a complete swine to fit on these rims, my thumbs are still aching. Merry Xmas everyone. :D
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    That's a good sign though, you don't want them loose. As long as the tyre went onto the beads cleanly it ought to tubeless up though.

    (did you already add the yellow tape? A good trick when fitting tubeless tyres is to fit them with a tube, then undo only one side of the tyre to get the tube out and leave the other side of the tyre on the bead. Then fit the valve. This way, you're basically only needing to seal half a tyre.
    Uncompromising extremist
  • Briggo
    Briggo Posts: 3,537
    Thanks everyone for the tips and advice. For the moment I have mounted the Nobby Nics with tubes on the rims as I won't get them done tubeless before the Xmas break. And yes they were a complete swine to fit on these rims, my thumbs are still aching. Merry Xmas everyone. :D

    Really? Why? The're pish easy to fit on, I change from Nobby Nics to Racing Ralph and Rubber queens all the time on mine. Just remember to sit the bead on the inner indent, that gives you some extra breathing space, when you pump it up the air pushes the whole tyre out to where it should be job done.

    Oh and I don't get all this sealant malarky, it sounds like a right royal pain in the backside, tubes seem so much easier.
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    Briggo wrote:
    Oh and I don't get all this sealant malarky, it sounds like a right royal pain in the backside, tubes seem so much easier.

    Tubes are heavier, and more puncturey. Tubeless and sealant can be a faff but it's a faff at the time of your choosing, in the house or garage. Whereas punctures are a faff usually exactly when you don't want them, in the rain and mud halfway down the big descent you just spent 20 minutes climbing for, meanwhile your mates take the piss.
    Uncompromising extremist
  • Briggo
    Briggo Posts: 3,537
    Oh I dunno the amount of people I see on the trail side with their sealant filled tyres still having as much issues as that replacing a tube.

    Either seating is wrong or trying to get the sealant to the hole, by removing the wheel and shaking it about/turning it round quickly lots and lots.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    It's a faff when your sealant fails on the trail due to a large puncture - now try fixing it and reinflating ;-)

    Of course you can take a spare tube... which kinda contradicts the point of tubeless!
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    Briggo wrote:
    Oh I dunno the amount of people I see on the trail side with their sealant filled tyres still having as much issues as that replacing a tube.

    Well yeah, obviously on the occasions you get a flat, it's exactly the same as when you get a flat with a tube, except with a wee bit of latex splashing around. The point is, you get less. I've had 2 flats in the 2 and a half years since I went tubeless. Well, 3, because I did one ride with a tube in and I flatted.

    (oh- I still use tubes on the dh bike but dualplies and fat tubes have different rules entirely)
    Uncompromising extremist
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    1 flat in last three years, and that was a pinch in a 1.95 on rock. Called picking your line and not riding through the neighbours rose bushes.
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  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    :roll:
    Uncompromising extremist
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Love you too.
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