Rusty chain

The Rookie
The Rookie Posts: 27,812
edited January 2012 in The workshop
OK so I wipe clean and relube (finishline wet lube) the chain once a week and then give a through clean and relube about once a month (depending on mileage and weather etc), all of a sudden last week the chain went really rusty over 2 or three days and now I'm struggling to keep it rust free. I will be replacing it (any suggestions for ones that will stay rust free longer?) and did I do anything wrong?

Simon
Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

Comments

  • phy2sll2
    phy2sll2 Posts: 680
    No, they just put salt down on the roads where you live.

    Have you tried a taking a brass brush to it? If that doesn't help, I'd replace it, but wait until spring!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Not tried a brass brush, but gave it several good wipes off and lubes last night, yes will wait as long as possible until I replace it for obvious reasons!

    Any suggestions on chains that are less prone to rust?

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • pdw
    pdw Posts: 315
    Re-lube after every wet ride. Or just live with it.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Normally just a bit of surface rust, just ride it off.
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Enough surface rust that I had some stiff links!

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Rusty chain...i'll show you a rusty chain !!!!
    14102011004.jpg

    BSO at work...i got so fed up of looking at it...i oiled it withut the owners knowledge :lol:

    Just oil it Simon. Once the rust has got in there, you'll never get rid of it permanently. It doesnt matter that much, its only going to be on the surface.
    Its a bit different with modern multi speed chains but i did up my SILs Dawes Diploma 3 speed whose chain was SO rusty, it had siezed rigid. It took 2 days of soaking in WD, a lot of muscle power releasing all the siezed links, lots of oiling...it's still working fine a year later.
  • In very wet weather, grease can be used instead of oils. I have seen it used by pro's on tour when they have very wet stages.
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  • BiggerBoat wrote:
    In very wet weather, grease can be used instead of oils. I have seen it used by pro's on tour when they have very wet stages.
    Going off topic somewhat...i've always wondered how often the mechanics change chains on the TdeF for instance.
    Shame i didnt think to ask when the prologue was in London.
  • Gussio
    Gussio Posts: 2,452
    Connex do a titanium chain, yours for a shade over £200 :shock:
  • mudcow007
    mudcow007 Posts: 3,861
    could always get your chain power coated - mucho coolness!

    on a serious note, how much lube do you wipe off? are you just wiping it off the side plates or the rollers? maybe leave some of the residue oil on, id rather have gunged up jockey wheels that rust
    Keeping it classy since '83
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I just wipe off the excess, I don't 'rub it' clean!

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.