Flippy floppy crank problem

naffa
naffa Posts: 126
edited December 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi guys and gals I'm wondering whether the bb needs replacing on a bike ive just bought or is it different being an older bike. Basically the crank moves from side to side and up and down within the bottom bracket. I'm not sure of the age of the bike so heres a pic
DSC_0019.JPG
Cheers Nathan.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    yes. sounds like it needs replacing.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
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  • naffa
    naffa Posts: 126
    Are they easy enough to replace?
    I fancy having a go myself are there any special tools i'll need?
    Are the bearings all the same size?

    Thanks Nathan
    Cheers Nathan.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Yes if you have the right tools.
    Doubt it's loose bearings, most likely a cartridge BB - they come in different sizes and axle lengths.
    You need to work out what's on there and replace with like.
    Tools depend on type of BB. Common older are square taper - you need a BB tool and a crank puller.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • delcol
    delcol Posts: 2,848
    yeah you will need special tools.

    if it's anything like our kids old diamond back ascent (1992) you will need a crank puller to extract the crank arms
    and a bottom bracket tool to remove the bb..

    if it's the same type of crank and bb, you will be looking at something like these. (i cant say which size you will need,) he got his from halfords even came with greese.
    http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_210159
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    So you need to work out what sort of BB the bike has. Pic would help.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    My old Gary Fisher Pirnha has what looks like identical frame to that (probably older as it was on canti's not V-s and Yellow is clearly better than Orange), the BB was cup and cone (and they were FUBARed), I replaced mine with a sealed cartridge one (same axle length) for an easier life!

    11082011035.jpg
    Taken during the build, it now has the right wheels and decent tyres and CREE8 green pedals on black Deore crankset.

    You'll need a crank puller and a BB tool.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • naffa
    naffa Posts: 126
    Well thanks for all the replys and advice. I tried removing the arm and crank today without a crank removal tool but couldn't so I'm gonna have to get hold of one. I can see that the tool needed for removing the bb is a multispline one. I have a multispline tool for removing rear freewheels is this likely to fit and do the job? :?:

    @ The Beginner, I've seen your bike over on retro bikes haven't I?

    Naffa
    Cheers Nathan.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Probably not. Different splines.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    naffa wrote:
    I've seen your bike over on retro bikes haven't I?
    You will have indeed!

    It's a different tool to the freewheel one, a single tool will probably cost you about a fiver (see ebay links below), if you buy a sealed BB from an LBS they'll probably fit it for free. It's possible yours just need spanners and a C-spanner (or hammer and screwdriver) - I can't remember what was originally fitted, but would strongly suggest upgrading to sealed unless total originality is important to you.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cycle-Bike-Cy ... 2a172c9ff4
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bike-Bicycle- ... 3cbf87e49b

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • add595
    add595 Posts: 196
    If the bottom bracket has splines, as you say, it is likely a sealed unit. Just get a new one the same length as the old one.

    I have just bought one of these crank removal tools and I am very impressed: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160654754587

    You will need a torque wrench for putting alloy square taper crank arms back on. You must not over-tighten them, as you will deform the square in the crank arm, which will turn them into bin fodder. You must also not under-tighten them as they will come loose and the square will get deformed, also turning them into bin fodder. Low strength lock tight is recommended also, and make sure the axle and crank square are squeaky clean before attempting re-assembly.
    2009 Giant Trance X5
    Kinesis Decade Virsa custom build
    Pinnacle Peak 700c hybrid road rat
    Various other parts 'n' projects
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    No you don't. Nice if you do but...
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • add595
    add595 Posts: 196
    Cooldad is right obviously
    2009 Giant Trance X5
    Kinesis Decade Virsa custom build
    Pinnacle Peak 700c hybrid road rat
    Various other parts 'n' projects
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I am, nice if you have one, not crucial if you don't, and most people don't. Currently have 5 bikes with square taper, 3 with HTII lying around. No torque wrench and no trashed cranks.
    Many, many more in the past.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Obviously
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • add595
    add595 Posts: 196
    I am guessing the OP hasn't changed square taper cranks arms before, therefore are unlikely to know how tight or not-tight to do the crank bolts up. I can only recommend a torque wrench under this circumstance.

    I can 'feel' how tight to do the bolts up, as I have done it so many times before. I am sure you may not use one for the same reason.

    Just my £0.02, if you don't agree feel free to argue about it.
    2009 Giant Trance X5
    Kinesis Decade Virsa custom build
    Pinnacle Peak 700c hybrid road rat
    Various other parts 'n' projects
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Me argue? Nope reasonable point.
    But I don't use one because I'm cheap.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • delcol
    delcol Posts: 2,848
    changing to sealed bb,, thats not very retro is it,,,, thats why we just changed the knackerd bearings, to keep it as it was,, and they were cheaper, cause we are tight..
  • naffa
    naffa Posts: 126
    Well afer much effort and aggro I have finaly removed the bb which is a sealed unit. I broke a brand new crank removal tool from Halfords in the process. The cranks just wouldn't budge even when I used heat on them so I ended up grinding the cranks off leaving the bottom bracket looking like this,
    DSC_0024.JPG

    It was square taper and on the cartridge it says 68mm and BB - 7700. I suppose the other measurement i need is the total length including the tapered bits is that right?
    Cheers Nathan.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Yup.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • naffa
    naffa Posts: 126
    Found 1 and 1 only on eBay so I've bought it.

    Gotta take the crank tool back to Halfords and either get a replacement or refund from them.
    Cheers Nathan.