Canyon Nerve XC 8.0

El Diego
El Diego Posts: 440
edited June 2012 in Your mountain bikes
E78579A5.jpg

SPEC'
XT Groupset except for the brakes, which are Avid Elixir CR
Tapered Fox 32 120mm FIT 15mm Maxle Lite
Fox RP2 Shock 120mm
DT Swiss X1700 wheels - *soon to be Hope Pro 2 Evo on Stan's Arch EX (buckled the front beyond repair)
Raceface Turbine 70mm
Easton Haven Handlebar
Raceface Turbine
ODI Cross Trainer lock on grips
Fizik Gobi XM Saddle
Point 1 Racing pedals

Comments

  • blablablacksheep
    blablablacksheep Posts: 1,377
    i think your bike needs a clean :)

    lovely bike though, just need some mud guards
    London2Brighton Challange 100k!
    http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    Nice bikes arent they but you shouldnt clamp your bike in a workstand by the frame you should do it on the seatpost.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • Briggo
    Briggo Posts: 3,537
    stubs wrote:
    Nice bikes arent they but you shouldnt clamp your bike in a workstand by the frame you should do it on the seatpost.

    Not that I do as I simply cant on mine but why...
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    Briggo wrote:
    stubs wrote:
    Nice bikes arent they but you shouldnt clamp your bike in a workstand by the frame you should do it on the seatpost.

    Not that I do as I simply cant on mine but why...

    Your frame walls are thin and arent meant to be clamped. Hydroformed frames sometimes have sections where the walls are about as thick as a coke can thats how its designed its not by accident but the frame designer didnt do the stressing to allow for some gorilla to clamp it in a vice.

    It might be fine and probably will be but its a £1000 for a new frame if it goes wrong.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • Curious Yellow
    Curious Yellow Posts: 281
    Why are the pedals off in the 2nd and 3rd pictures?
  • MountainMonster
    MountainMonster Posts: 7,423
    stubs wrote:
    Briggo wrote:
    stubs wrote:
    Nice bikes arent they but you shouldnt clamp your bike in a workstand by the frame you should do it on the seatpost.

    Not that I do as I simply cant on mine but why...

    Your frame walls are thin and arent meant to be clamped. Hydroformed frames sometimes have sections where the walls are about as thick as a coke can thats how its designed its not by accident but the frame designer didnt do the stressing to allow for some gorilla to clamp it in a vice.

    It might be fine and probably will be but its a £1000 for a new frame if it goes wrong.

    These bikes are meant to withstand a hell of a lot of trail abuse, meant to be thrown through rock gardens, and a gnarly, and your worried about it being clamped in a workstand? You also believe carbon melts in the sun?

    Anyways to the OP, very nice bike!
    My London Road
  • Briggo
    Briggo Posts: 3,537
    stubs wrote:
    Briggo wrote:
    stubs wrote:
    Nice bikes arent they but you shouldnt clamp your bike in a workstand by the frame you should do it on the seatpost.

    Not that I do as I simply cant on mine but why...

    Your frame walls are thin and arent meant to be clamped. Hydroformed frames sometimes have sections where the walls are about as thick as a coke can thats how its designed its not by accident but the frame designer didnt do the stressing to allow for some gorilla to clamp it in a vice.

    It might be fine and probably will be but its a £1000 for a new frame if it goes wrong.

    Really? Thickness of a coke can? I aint no engineer so I'd love to know if thats true, please show me such a mountain bike frame with such a trait.
  • Mojo_666
    Mojo_666 Posts: 860
    edited December 2011
    Briggo wrote:
    Not that I do as I simply cant on mine but why...

    Because the cable routed on the top tube also gets clamped which makes gear set up tricky, top tubes also now come in some strange shapes and you may no get a solid/safe hold. It is sometimes needed to clamp on the frame and wont cause major issue (except when cables are routed) but common practice is seat tube clamping, you should be able to rotate your stands clamp 90 degrees to allow you to do the same.
    My 1 and only Bike
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    MountainMonster wrote:
    stubs wrote:
    Briggo wrote:
    stubs wrote:
    Nice bikes arent they but you shouldnt clamp your bike in a workstand by the frame you should do it on the seatpost.

    Not that I do as I simply cant on mine but why...

    Your frame walls are thin and arent meant to be clamped. Hydroformed frames sometimes have sections where the walls are about as thick as a coke can thats how its designed its not by accident but the frame designer didnt do the stressing to allow for some gorilla to clamp it in a vice.

    It might be fine and probably will be but its a £1000 for a new frame if it goes wrong.

    These bikes are meant to withstand a hell of a lot of trail abuse, meant to be thrown through rock gardens, and a gnarly, and your worried about it being clamped in a workstand? You also believe carbon melts in the sun?

    Anyways to the OP, very nice bike!

    I was only paraphrasing what a mountain bike designer said, I might have had a drink of hyperbole when I said coke can but it is a recognised term for a thin tube wall not neccesarily meaning it is actually the same thickness.

    Tubes are very strong when they are being crushed from the ends or being twisted or bent, they are very weak when they are being squashed on the sides. If you dont believe me try the old school teachers trick of getting a bog roll tube putting it on end and putting a series of hardback books on it, it will take a surprising amount of weight before it crushes. Try putting the bog roll tube on its side and see how many books you can put on it.

    If you want to clamp your frame in a vice then go ahead but if it goes tits up your going to be a bit cheesed off you didnt clamp it on the seatpost. It does happen I have seen several examples on this site and others.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • MountainMonster
    MountainMonster Posts: 7,423
    stubs wrote:
    MountainMonster wrote:
    stubs wrote:
    Briggo wrote:
    stubs wrote:
    Nice bikes arent they but you shouldnt clamp your bike in a workstand by the frame you should do it on the seatpost.

    Not that I do as I simply cant on mine but why...

    Your frame walls are thin and arent meant to be clamped. Hydroformed frames sometimes have sections where the walls are about as thick as a coke can thats how its designed its not by accident but the frame designer didnt do the stressing to allow for some gorilla to clamp it in a vice.

    It might be fine and probably will be but its a £1000 for a new frame if it goes wrong.

    These bikes are meant to withstand a hell of a lot of trail abuse, meant to be thrown through rock gardens, and a gnarly, and your worried about it being clamped in a workstand? You also believe carbon melts in the sun?

    Anyways to the OP, very nice bike!

    I was only paraphrasing what a mountain bike designer said, I might have had a drink of hyperbole when I said coke can but it is a recognised term for a thin tube wall not neccesarily meaning it is actually the same thickness.

    Tubes are very strong when they are being crushed from the ends or being twisted or bent, they are very weak when they are being squashed on the sides. If you dont believe me try the old school teachers trick of getting a bog roll tube putting it on end and putting a series of hardback books on it, it will take a surprising amount of weight before it crushes. Try putting the bog roll tube on its side and see how many books you can put on it.

    If you want to clamp your frame in a vice then go ahead but if it goes tits up your going to be a bit cheesed off you didnt clamp it on the seatpost. It does happen I have seen several examples on this site and others.

    Also the forces needed to clamp a bike and hold it still are minimal. You seem to be thinking were clamping a hydraulic press at full whack onto the frame. Your delusional.
    My London Road
  • ben_chesterfield
    ben_chesterfield Posts: 54
    very nice bike op.

    how long did the bike take to arrive after ordering?

    thanks

    Ben
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    MountainMonster wrote:

    Also the forces needed to clamp a bike and hold it still are minimal. You seem to be thinking were clamping a hydraulic press at full whack onto the frame. Your delusional.

    Thats fine if it twists your titties so much you carry on clamping your bike up by the top tube. It probably wont do any damage but it does happen and you will kick yourself if you do crimp the frame. Why take the small but genuine risk of damaging hundreds or thousands of pounds of frame when you could remove the risk by simply using the seatpost which is cheaper and less likely to get damaged.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • MountainMonster
    MountainMonster Posts: 7,423
    stubs wrote:
    MountainMonster wrote:

    Also the forces needed to clamp a bike and hold it still are minimal. You seem to be thinking were clamping a hydraulic press at full whack onto the frame. Your delusional.

    Thats fine if it twists your titties so much you carry on clamping your bike up by the top tube. It probably wont do any damage but it does happen and you will kick yourself if you do crimp the frame. Why take the small but genuine risk of damaging hundreds or thousands of pounds of frame when you could remove the risk by simply using the seatpost which is cheaper and less likely to get damaged.

    I clamp by my seatpost anyways, i just find it retarded your saying its going to crack from clamping it on a tube. The chances of a modern frame cracking from the clamping forces of a workstand is about as likely as me farting rainbows.
    My London Road
  • Briggo
    Briggo Posts: 3,537
    Mojo_666 wrote:
    Briggo wrote:
    Not that I do as I simply cant on mine but why...

    Because the cable routed on the top tube also gets clamped which makes gear set up tricky,

    The one and only valid reason why you wouldn't want too clamp your top tube and this only applies if you don't have full outers AND the cables even run under/over the top tube.
  • chez_m356
    chez_m356 Posts: 1,893
    Briggo wrote:
    Mojo_666 wrote:
    Briggo wrote:
    Not that I do as I simply cant on mine but why...

    Because the cable routed on the top tube also gets clamped which makes gear set up tricky,

    The one and only valid reason why you wouldn't want too clamp your top tube and this only applies if you don't have full outers AND the cables even run under/over the top tube.
    nothing to do with the uniform shape and diameter of a seat post then? anyway nice bike there mate, but why change the seatpost QR, you not like it, or just a colour thing?
    Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 10- CANYON Nerve AM 6 2011
  • Briggo
    Briggo Posts: 3,537
    chez_m356 wrote:
    Briggo wrote:
    Mojo_666 wrote:
    Briggo wrote:
    Not that I do as I simply cant on mine but why...

    Because the cable routed on the top tube also gets clamped which makes gear set up tricky,

    The one and only valid reason why you wouldn't want too clamp your top tube and this only applies if you don't have full outers AND the cables even run under/over the top tube.
    nothing to do with the uniform shape and diameter of a seat post then? anyway nice bike there mate, but why change the seatpost QR, you not like it, or just a colour thing?

    This has already been said.
  • chez_m356
    chez_m356 Posts: 1,893
    Briggo wrote:
    chez_m356 wrote:
    Briggo wrote:
    Mojo_666 wrote:
    Briggo wrote:
    Not that I do as I simply cant on mine but why...

    Because the cable routed on the top tube also gets clamped which makes gear set up tricky,

    The one and only valid reason why you wouldn't want too clamp your top tube and this only applies if you don't have full outers AND the cables even run under/over the top tube.
    nothing to do with the uniform shape and diameter of a seat post then? anyway nice bike there mate, but why change the seatpost QR, you not like it, or just a colour thing?

    This has already been said.
    who are you, forum police? i don't care how people clamp, its up to them, try looking in a workshop, seatposts are clamped because they are not angled or shaped like frames, you get an even clamping force, plus theres no chance of damaging paintwork if the clamp should move or slip for some reason, its called common sense
    Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 10- CANYON Nerve AM 6 2011
  • El Diego
    El Diego Posts: 440
    I know I shouldn't really clamp it by the top tube, but I'm very careful not to do it up too tight.

    I changed the seat clamp because I bent the curved washer thing on the stock one.

    To whoever asked, why no pedals in the 3rd picture, I took them off because I was giving a proper good bath and was switching my SPDs for flats.
  • IT66T
    IT66T Posts: 377
    Nice looking bike you've got but how about some pics after it's had a clean please :) .
    You must treat others with respect in order to be respected ..
    09 5.2 Rockrider budget rescue . viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=13033836&p=19671152#p19670604
  • El Diego
    El Diego Posts: 440
    edited June 2012
    9F6FA6E9.jpg

    Going up Helvellyn
  • IT66T
    IT66T Posts: 377
    Wow 8) , Their was a bike hiding under all that crud :shock: , your bike just looks amazing and i bet it feels a fair bit lighter to ride now but i bet it won't stay looking like that for too long especially now the rain is back with us again and i bet that won't stop you from enjoying being out on it again lol .
    You must treat others with respect in order to be respected ..
    09 5.2 Rockrider budget rescue . viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=13033836&p=19671152#p19670604
  • WhipIt
    WhipIt Posts: 52
    What size is it? What are your measurements? Thanks!
  • El Diego
    El Diego Posts: 440
    It's a large. I'm 6,2" with 33" inside leg and it's a good fit.
  • Curious Yellow
    Curious Yellow Posts: 281
    Just ordered one. Mind putting some more pics up so I can get a fix while I wait for it? Please!
  • El Diego
    El Diego Posts: 440
    More pics here:

    http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss69/deanamoran/Canyon%20Nerve/

    It's resting at the moment. I buckled the wheel on a particularly heavy landing.

    B73B7576.jpg
  • chez_m356
    chez_m356 Posts: 1,893
    El Diego wrote:
    It's resting at the moment. I buckled the wheel on a particularly heavy landing.

    B73B7576.jpg
    just a slight buckle then :D
    Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 10- CANYON Nerve AM 6 2011
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    chez_m356 wrote:
    El Diego wrote:
    It's resting at the moment. I buckled the wheel on a particularly heavy landing.

    B73B7576.jpg
    just a slight buckle then :D

    It will polish out :lol:
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • El Diego
    El Diego Posts: 440
    I'm going to retire the wheel and hang on the wall as a trophy - evidence of my clumsy lack of skill on a bike.
  • Curious Yellow
    Curious Yellow Posts: 281
    Ouch! Did you stay upright after the jump though?
  • El Diego
    El Diego Posts: 440
    Unfortunately not! I landed heavily on my right hip :(

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