Troubles with range of tension on sram x9 ten speed

bennett_346

Hi, having a bit of a problem here.

I understand how to index gears fine, the problem comes with the barrel adjuster on the X7 10spd shifter.

It is fully wound clockwise to lowest inner wire tension, and is indexed correctly, but on any setting other than minimum tension on the trigger shifter, the gears become worse and worse indexed. It's almost as if the range of adjustment is completely off.

Any explanation here?

nicklouse

poor routing.

incorrect shifter.

bent hanger.

bennett_346

This bike is 6 weeks old and came with perfect shifting, now it has bedded in, and no routing has been changed. The shifter is stock so must be right.

I've never hit the hanger and just checked it now. It is straight.

This is confusing me endlessly now.

Chunkers1980

The barell adjusted does not increase tension on the wire. Tension is the same, winding out the barrell adjuster just moves the mech, if it's all un-stopped or not resting at the end if its travel, or taking slack. Mechs - don't actually need the stops - they just help

bennett_346

Chunkers1980 wrote:

The barell adjusted does not increase tension on the wire. Tension is the same, winding out the barrell adjuster just moves the mech, if it's all un-stopped or not resting at the end if its travel, or taking slack. Mechs - don't actually need the stops - they just help

Sorry. Bit of confusion here. The barrel adjuster i mean is on the shifter, not the mech.

Thanks.

Anonymous

Same. SRAM have no barrel adjuster on the mech (and likewise some Shimano mechs, like SLX). Mech or shifter end, it's doing the same job of just moving the mech. If the mech is at the limit however you'll be stressing the cable and probably stretch it.

I'd re-do the lot. If it was built and indexed by the shop then chances are it was done badly. Back off the limit screws, shift to smallest cog, undo cable from mech, pull the cable out and check it's lubed and if not lube it. Then start again.

Also, title says X9, but you say X7 in the post. I've read comments about the X7 having issues a bit like this when new.

Though it's also to be expected for a little cable stretch initially, though some recommend you should pre-stretch it before indexing.

bennett_346

deadkenny wrote:

Same. SRAM have no barrel adjuster on the mech (and likewise some Shimano mechs, like SLX). Mech or shifter end, it's doing the same job of just moving the mech. If the mech is at the limit however you'll be stressing the cable and probably stretch it.

I'd re-do the lot. If it was built and indexed by the shop then chances are it was done badly. Back off the limit screws, shift to smallest cog, undo cable from mech, pull the cable out and check it's lubed and if not lube it. Then start again.

Also, title says X9, but you say X7 in the post. I've read comments about the X7 having issues a bit like this when new.

Though it's also to be expected for a little cable stretch initially, though some recommend you should pre-stretch it before indexing.

Thanks for this. Think i will remove the inner and lube it properly then start the indexing from scratch. The B screw is correct but i don't think the limit screws are and this is probably having a bigger effect than i first though, but because you need cable without an outer on to adjust them easily i haven't so far touched them.

The rear mech is X9 and the shifter X7, apologies for the ambiguity there :P

Chunkers1980

After 6 weeks there's really no need to remove the cable from the outer - in most cases you'll screw it up as there will be an end cap on the cable and it'll be squashed and not go back properly without with strands hanging out.

Sounds like your first click up is not actaully doing anything so sending the indexing out right up the block to the bigger cogs.

Anonymous

Good point. I've had that in the past.

I find the easiest for me is to start on the small cog, shifter in top gear, clamp the cable to the mech and use a combination of the H limit and adjuster to visually line up the jockeys to the small cog. After that the rest is just shifting up and down with tweaks on the adjuster and set the L screw to ensure it doesn't drop off the big cog. In big cog, maybe adjust B screw to get top jockey close but not too close to the cog. If it's shifting fine and chain tension is okay then probably just leave that.

At least that's the way I do it now. Maybe not perfect or the "right" way, but seems to work for me.

supersonic

It is fully wound clockwise to lowest inner wire tension, and is indexed correctly,

So no problem, leave it alone!

bennett_346

supersonic wrote:

It is fully wound clockwise to lowest inner wire tension, and is indexed correctly,

So no problem, leave it alone!

Yes, no problem, just find it weird that it should be at that extent!

supersonic

You could undo the cable clamp bolt, add 5mm of slack, tighten, wind out barrel aduster... this will give you a larger adjustment window if you ever need it.

bennett_346

supersonic wrote:

You could undo the cable clamp bolt, add 5mm of slack, tighten, wind out barrel aduster... this will give you a larger adjustment window if you ever need it.

Ahhhh now this is the kind of thing i was looking for!

Much thanks pal

pugaltitude

I just put top cog front, small cog rear with rear cable disconnected.
Then wind barrel out 2 full turns. Fit cable and fine adjust using barrel.
The h and l screw will be fine.

Chunkers1980

The least as possible is always best when it comes to how much of the barrel you let hang out. Never wind it in, after setup.

sanchez89

my setup is same as yours by the sounds of it. mine also went a bit pete tong a few weeks from new.

i followed this video http://www.pinkbike.com/news/tech-tuesday-sram-rear-derailleur-adjustments-2010.html

turn your barrel adjuster fully in, then back out 2 full turns then reset gears as normal.

should be fine. if not something is defo not functioning correctly.

bennett_346

sanchez89 wrote:

my setup is same as yours by the sounds of it. mine also went a bit pete tong a few weeks from new.

i followed this video http://www.pinkbike.com/news/tech-tuesday-sram-rear-derailleur-adjustments-2010.html

turn your barrel adjuster fully in, then back out 2 full turns then reset gears as normal.

should be fine. if not something is defo not functioning correctly.

Hmm, this could be helpful, are you also running ten speed x9/x7?

Thanks for the help

sanchez89

yes i am indeed. 10sp x9 rear mech, x7 shifters.

follow that video to the letter and you'll be laughing.

when mine when all gay it got stuck in the largest cog, clicking shifter did nothing. reindexed and been fine since.

glad i can help.

bennett_346

sanchez89 wrote:

yes i am indeed. 10sp x9 rear mech, x7 shifters.

follow that video to the letter and you'll be laughing.

when mine when all gay it got stuck in the largest cog, clicking shifter did nothing. reindexed and been fine since.

glad i can help.

Exact same setup. Going to combine this with supers suggestion and all should be "cushty".

smokymcjoe

how did you get on. guessing all good ;-)

bennett_346

smokymcjoe wrote:

how did you get on. guessing all good ;-)

Normally i'd reply back but due to all sorts of hectic commitments my bike hasn't been seeing much love this past week!