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Fitting a 2nd set of brake levers.

northstarnorthstar Posts: 407
edited December 2011 in The workshop
Hi,

Is it possible to fix a second set of brake levers to a road bike and link them up with the existing brake system? I'm guessing I will have to buy some extra kit to do it after the levers?

These are the levers http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/ ... evers.html and my bike is a Scottroad bike with a Scott braking system.

Thanks.
Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.

Posts

  • redveeredvee Posts: 11,921
    The levers you have linked to are TT brake levers for in the end of bullhorn bars. You need something like Tektro RL720 which go on the top of the drops just where the bar tape finishes.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • Normally, you'll need a new brake inner and some new handlebar tape. (Use old rear inner as front if poss)
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc
  • Mr PlumMr Plum Posts: 1,097
    You need some 'interrupter levers'. The ones you've linked to won't work the way you'd like them to.

    Just curious as to why?
    FCN 2 to 8
  • Mainly because I have the type of levers redvee is talking about on my single speed/fixed bike so want to try these levers on my road bike.

    I've bought them brand new 3rd party today, just need to sort out the cabling etc - it's also because i can't reach my normal brakes from the lowest point of my bars when descending, will update when it's finished.
    Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.
  • 1) Undo brake cable clamps and neatly remove anti-fray ends, withdraw brake inners.
    2) Unwrap handlebar-tape upto STI to expose brake outer.
    3) Cut outer, from STI to new Lever, to length.
    4) Cut outer, from new lever to Frame Cable-Guide, to account for lever.
    5) Refit inners, if above done correctly and neatly you can use the old brake inners. If not, re-use the longer rear inner and cut to length for the front and fit ferrules as necessary. Replace rear inner cable.
    6) Set-up brakes, fit new anti-fray ends.
    7) Rewrap handlebar.

    Simples
    nb if planning to re-use inners, a good way to stop them fraying is the slightest drop of superglue on the cut end to stop fraying when re-fitting
    and, if you're good: only withdraw inner enough (don't fully remove) so when you cut the outer you don't chomp the inner - makes the task so much quicker and if you're really good you don't even have to un-wrap the handlebar tape (so far).

    An LBS would probably charge about £8-15 plus new inners and outers (£2-6). Job should take a good mechanic with the right tools/space about 30mins. Your average 'home-mechnic' will take all afternoon, p1ss about and end up at the LBS because they've cut their inners too short (or don't have cable cutters/required ferrules or anti-fray thingies) - measure twice :-)
    For the LBS; Stage 8) Profit!
    Give it a go, and if it doesn't work then off to the LBS (Stage 8 for the home mechanic can be £save if it works)
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc
  • jomojjomoj Posts: 777
    northstar wrote:
    .

    I've bought them brand new 3rd party today, just need to sort out the cabling etc - it's also because i can't reach my normal brakes from the lowest point of my bars when descending, will update when it's finished.

    that sounds like a case for changing / fettling the bars and stem setup rather than adding bar top levers. Depending on the lever type you might be able to add a shim to bring the lever closer or use a shallower drop bar.
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