Cleats

siamon
siamon Posts: 274
edited December 2011 in Workshop
Has anyone got any tips to ensure the cleat is in the correct place on the shoe please? I use the shimano ones that come with the SPD SL pedals.

Comments

  • sheffsimon
    sheffsimon Posts: 1,282
    Cleat position depends your physiology/preferences, but as a kick-off, the ball of your foot should be over the pedal axle.

    You can then tweak from there. Take an allen key/screwdriver out with you on the bike and tweak em while you are out.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Start in a 'neutral' position i.e. spindle under ball of foot and foot broadly parallel to the wheels. See if you can borrow a turbo trainer and do it indoors - you can get your feet out the shoes, leaving them in position and tweak / adjust / tighten more easily until you feel comfortable. However, it you start experiencing any discomfort, particularly knee pain then it may be worth seeking further help. It also depends on whether you have any existing injury / biomechanical issues that could impact on your foot position.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • also to make sure that the cleats point forward allow for any natural twists to your legs by sitting on a table and let your legs relax and note how the feet point. Adjust the cleats so they point 'true' ahead
    Recipe: shave legs sparingly, rub in embrocation and drizzle with freshly squeezed baby oil.
  • siamon
    siamon Posts: 274
    The reason I asked was because before last Fridays ride I decided that I needed my cleats as far back as they would go, and adjusted accordingly. I had previously decided I could feel that the spindle was too far forward on the balls of my feet, although, how I would know this considering how stiff my shoes are I am not sure. However, I then experienced knee pain during the ride. The pain started at 23 miles so I turned back, but it increased steadily until I got home when I was basically pedalling one legged. As soon as I got off the bike the pain disappeared. As my knee's are already run to bits, this engendered a significant amount of panic. The pain was located under the lower patella tendon.

    What sort of "further help" is available, without spending a 3 figure sum on a full bike fit, the last one of those I had was had me rocking in the saddle. Ouch.
  • Pseudonym
    Pseudonym Posts: 1,032
    siamon wrote:
    The reason I asked was because before last Fridays ride I decided that I needed my cleats as far back as they would go, and adjusted accordingly.
    siamon wrote:
    However, I then experienced knee pain during the ride.

    Do you think it's possible these two events may be connected in some way..?
  • siamon
    siamon Posts: 274
    Yes, hence the request for advice on how to seat the cleat properly.
  • Pseudonym
    Pseudonym Posts: 1,032
    did you have any knee pain before you moved them..?
  • siamon
    siamon Posts: 274
    No previous knee pain on the bike whatsoever. I have noticed a tendency to under pronate on the pedals. I.e. I tend to push down with the outside of the foot rather than the ball, this is probably over from running. However I now control this on the bike as it does not seem efficient.

    I had set the cleats by loosening them, and rolling lightly on a turbo, then tightened them in the position they seated themselves in as per Monty Dogs solution.

    Also, I know what meniscus wear and delamination of the joint surface pain feels like and the pain was different. More like an over use strain, which is another reason I feel moving the cleat is responsible. It seems three mm of extra movement pushed it too far. The other recent change is I have started riding in the drops as much as I can as per phreaks suggestion on another thread.

    Restricted my ride to 14 miles today and not a hint of pain (although I did forget to move the cleats back)!!!!!!
  • Pseudonym
    Pseudonym Posts: 1,032
    siamon wrote:
    No previous knee pain on the bike whatsoever.

    there we are then. A victory for logic....
  • As others have hinted at, if you had no pain before why did you move them?

    Moving from all the way forward to all the way back is a huge change in bike position and depending on how much you toe down also changed your effective saddle height. I'd suggest working out where the cleat needs to be using the 'ball of your foot over pedal axle' method and then if you have to move the cleat back do it in stages dropping your saddle at the same time.
  • siamon
    siamon Posts: 274
    I moved them from the centre to the back because I thought I could feel the spindle was under the very front of the ball of my foot due to my freakishly long finger like toes. Anyway they are back in the middle of the possible adjustment now. Sorry if the toe information has caused any nausea.
  • siamon
    siamon Posts: 274
    Just got back from the physio, she insists that my attempt to perform like Lance Armstrong within three months is solely responsible for the searing pain. She said my left quads are destroyed and had yanked the patella out of position. Therefore the patella tendon was under abnormal duress. She has banned me from cycling for a week but I thought I might pop out tomorrow morning to check the problem is fixed.

    If anyone does have a way to ensure the cleats are correctly aligned for the physiology of a particular rider then it will be much appreciated.
  • Pseudonym
    Pseudonym Posts: 1,032
    as already pointed out - start with the pedal axle approximately under the ball of your foot and adjust from there...