BB30 bottom brackets
evo3ben
Posts: 552
My new bike has a BB30 bottom bracket with an FSA crank fitted. I needed to make a few changes to the chain rings to took the crank off. It has a self extracting bolt which is handy.
When i refitted the crank back on the bike, i torqued up to 45nm (FSA recommends 45-55nm) but when i spin the crank it does not spin very freely. It was fine before i took it off and presuming that Connondale torqued it too FSA recommendations cant understand why its gone slightly stiff?? I loosened the crank and re-tightened to 40nm and still a little stiff but not as much. I then tried 38nm and all is fine. Could this cause a problem?
Now i know that there are great benifits from having a BB30 bottom bracket but i dont feel convinced.
Years ago i had a RaceFace crank which needed the bolt to be torqued up to around 45nm and i constantly had problems with over tightening and creaking and changed it for a Hollowtech II SLX crank and all my problems disappeared. I cant help thinking that the Hollowtech II design is still better that the bolt and torque system and that i would be better off getting some 24mm converters http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=46583 and fitting a Hollowtec II crank.
Anyone any thoughts please :?
When i refitted the crank back on the bike, i torqued up to 45nm (FSA recommends 45-55nm) but when i spin the crank it does not spin very freely. It was fine before i took it off and presuming that Connondale torqued it too FSA recommendations cant understand why its gone slightly stiff?? I loosened the crank and re-tightened to 40nm and still a little stiff but not as much. I then tried 38nm and all is fine. Could this cause a problem?
Now i know that there are great benifits from having a BB30 bottom bracket but i dont feel convinced.
Years ago i had a RaceFace crank which needed the bolt to be torqued up to around 45nm and i constantly had problems with over tightening and creaking and changed it for a Hollowtech II SLX crank and all my problems disappeared. I cant help thinking that the Hollowtech II design is still better that the bolt and torque system and that i would be better off getting some 24mm converters http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=46583 and fitting a Hollowtec II crank.
Anyone any thoughts please :?
http://www.mudsweatgears.co.uk
http://www.easterncross.org.uk
http://www.centralcxl.org.uk
Cannondale FSI Carbon 1
Cannondale SuperX Force CX1
http://www.easterncross.org.uk
http://www.centralcxl.org.uk
Cannondale FSI Carbon 1
Cannondale SuperX Force CX1
0
Comments
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How good is your wrench? That's just pre-load right?0
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Its not a certified calibrated wrench which as your prob going to say, could be the problem. Not sure what you mean by pre-load?
45nm is the recommended torque for the main bolt that holds the cranks together. The pre-load nut on teh inside of the crank is torqued to 7-9nm.http://www.mudsweatgears.co.uk
http://www.easterncross.org.uk
http://www.centralcxl.org.uk
Cannondale FSI Carbon 1
Cannondale SuperX Force CX10 -
Surely that's a pre-load issue then?0
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Here is a link to the crankset instructions http://www.fullspeedahead.com/storage/i ... 229_v1.pdf
So, if im understanding correctly, i need to back off the pre-load adjustment nut and re-tighten?http://www.mudsweatgears.co.uk
http://www.easterncross.org.uk
http://www.centralcxl.org.uk
Cannondale FSI Carbon 1
Cannondale SuperX Force CX10 -
Would think so.
Preload is not fact it's feel - loose enough to spin smoothly but not allowing play. Just like aheadset systems ect....0 -
I see exactly what you are saying 8) Thanks very much for clearing that up! Now i understand it properly, hopefully i can get it set up easier.http://www.mudsweatgears.co.uk
http://www.easterncross.org.uk
http://www.centralcxl.org.uk
Cannondale FSI Carbon 1
Cannondale SuperX Force CX10