Few problems with my bike.

Nevakonaza

Hey guys,

Right id appreciate some help here,Dont know much about bikes at all.

I have had this bike for about 6-7 months now, Its a great bike but its got some problems.

Specialized Hardrock 2011 Mountain Bike

1)Now its only done this to me twice, But nethertheless I suspect something isn't quite right,
When changing gear sometimes, the chain will come off the Cassette and I have to manually put it back on. also when changing gear it takes forever to change over..im there peddling as I change gear and it just clicks and clicks then after about 50-60 seconds finally changes gear.

2)This is my biggest problem,Squeeky breaks!
This problem seems to be the worst after its been raining, but lately they are been squeaky even though it has not rained all week, I have adjusted them many times but the squeak just comes back.

I was thinking of changing the pads but not sure what are the best for in the price range of £10-15?

Not sure if i need 70 or 72mm?

I use my bike to get to work and back daily, I know its not a road bike but I preferred a mountain bike.
Appreciate any help.

many thanks.

benpinnick

Number 1: Indexing and adjustment. Two things you need to know - The throw (max and minimum reach) of your rear mech is controlled by two screws on the side of the derailleur, marked L and H. This controls the Low and High maximum throw. If the gears are dropping off the inside (smallest) adjust the H screw, if falling off the top, adjust the L screw. The jockey wheels (little roller wheels) on the mech should line up vertically with the cog you are trying to stop it falling off. The reason its going to far off the bottom is probably: 2: Sounds like your gear adjustment is out generally. This often happens on new bikes as the gears settle in. This is why bike shops often offer a 6 week check. Probably going to need to add two turns or so to the barrel adjuster on the shifter for the rear gears to take up the slack. Add half a turn (out) to take up slack and try the gears, repeat until your happy with the shifting. This should take out the slack in the cable and get you back on track. If you have exposed cables (where you can see the actual wire for parts of the cable run) you should be able to see that when in highest gear (small cog) on the back you can see a slack wire, which will become less slack as you turn the barrel adjuster.

As for your brakes, you could try new pads, might work. Not sure what you mean by needing 70mm or 72 though?

Nevakonaza

Hi benpinnick,Thanks for your reply.

Just had a look at my bike, and can see those 2 screws with L & H marked underneath them, So il adjust them slightly and take it for a spin..

As for the brake pads I have on now that I got with the bike, They are called Promax 260,Dont look very good quality. :x

Reason i say 70mm or 72,Been looking at some new V pads online and some are said to be 70mm and some are 72mm.
I will of course measure mine but was wondering if it makes any difference.

benpinnick

Don't forget to tension the cable, the L and H will only stop the chain falling off, not sort your shifting.

As for your brakes, now I know they are v brakes thats easy to fix....

Vs squeal because they aren't 'toed in'. What this means is that the brakes need to be set up at an angle to the rim, specifically the front of the pad must hit before the rear. Adjust the pads so that as you pull the brakes when the front edge of the pad hits the rim, the rear end is still 1-2 mm from the rim. This will kill the squeal.

Size wont matter on pads, unless you are replacing just the rubber but (some brakes are cartridge style, where you lireally replace the rubber only (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=27232) whereas most are like these (which would be a good choice BTW) http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=55821

Nevakonaza

Will tension the cable also,Just been watching a few how too clips on youtube.

Looking at my brakes,They sit flat on the rim,and not how like you said front edge of the pad hits the rim and rear end 1-2 mm from the rim...so yeah probably why.

I thill think il order some new pads though,for it because when the existing ones get wet it sort of soaks in to the block which i think dont help.

Out of these ...which ones would you get?

1) http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=55824
2) http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=55821
3) http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=55826

Thanks again for your help!

benpinnick

All would be fine, the last have the cartridge style, which in theory makes the pads cheaper for the second and subsequent replacements, but never seems to work out that way.

I'd consider the aquastop if you ride alot in the wet, but looks like you'll have more absolute power in the dry with the middle set, so 6 of one half a dozen of the other I guess.

Nevakonaza

Well i choose these in the end,Il see how they go.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=55826

Thanks for your help!