Cycling when in snows

jefflad
jefflad Posts: 315
edited November 2011 in Commuting general
As the title says who does it?

We're currently struggling financially and are thinking of ditching 1 of our 2 cars. As such this would mean I cycle all weathers rather than just looking out the window and deciding if I go or stay in bed for an hour and take the car. I'm a touch apprehensive but it would release some much needed cash even though cycling doesn't exactly mean an end to spending.

Using public transport would, be pretty much similar to using the car in petrol costs which seems silly but there you go. Any advice or tips would be much appreciated.

Comments

  • Layer your clothing, protect your extremeties, lots of lights, decent winter tyres & enjoy it.

    Watch out for snaking cars, its quite easy to just get clipped if someone gives it too much gas and gets a wiggle on.
  • jefflad
    jefflad Posts: 315
    Thanks, The things that cross my mind is me slipping, sleet and all mixed in with strong gusty winds... not that I'm a worrier of course ;)
  • Lazarus
    Lazarus Posts: 1,426
    Apparently you do in your avatar ! ! :D

    That said since ditching the MTB I no longer cycle in the snow, unless I have no choice and it's the only way to get home :( Got caught out twice last year after cycling to work and then heading home in a blizzard. Surprisingly it wasn't as bad it should have been, Cars followed each others tracks and I just tried to keep on the fresh snow and at no point lean the bike over.
    A punctured bicycle
    On a hillside desolate
    Will nature make a man of me yet ?
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    Last winter was my first, I got through it with effectively no rear brake and my studded tyres didn't turn up until it was all but over.

    Like you're planning I have just ditched the second car. The maths is quite simple really, monthly fuel ~£120 and rising, annual tax £260, insurance £850 and allowing £500 for repairs is around £3000 per year, I figure with the insurance alone at ~£850 I can easily justify a new half decent bike and don't need to feel guilty about buying bike gear.

    Cycling in the snow was OK, I came off a few times but I put that down to inexperience:

    Advice:
    You'll be as fast as (if not faster than) the other traffic so use their tracks
    Stick to the roads, they get gritted and better to die quickly under a bus than slowly freeze to death alone on a cycleway
    Don't dress as warm as you would if you were walking
    Don't lean too much and take corners slowly
    Avoid snow that's packed to sheet ice
    Add 50% more time
    Have somewhere to wait it out for the inevitable days when only cyclists can make it through on time
    Avoid steep climbs/descents where you'll have to stop for lights or junctions
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • I do it. But then I commute on an MTB.
    Decent tyres (and warm clothes) are all you need.
    The problem is when it starts melting or gets icy. Had 4 or 5 'offs' last year, but not on any of the roads I use - it was all on the tracks.
    You just have to make sure that you try to stay as straight as you can and pedal smoothly. Pushing hard on the pedals, or making sudden left or right turns can be problematic.
    2007 Felt Q720 (the ratbike)
    2012 Cube Ltd SL (the hardtail XC 26er)
    2014 Lapierre Zesty TR 329 (the full-sus 29er)
  • We got it pretty bad last year, yet I managed in/out every day. Once on day-off I cycled the 6 miles to my sister's house with a snow shovel zip-tied to top tube to dig out her car/drive.
    Clipping in can be awkward as you compress the snow into ice, just keep banging your cleats against the pedals to dislodge.
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc
  • jefflad
    jefflad Posts: 315
    Lazarus wrote:
    Apparently you do in your avatar ! ! :D

    Lol, yes I forgot all about that :) no traffic though which is my worry.

    Thanks too to initialised, I've only really got one bad road really to ride on the rest are semi-rural so for fresh snow I should be OK-ish or I could just do the A19 all the way (not a chance).

    LTL- I'll be on my MTB too the wheels I've gone for are marathon plus simply for something with a bit of grip and puncture (touch wood) protection as I don't fancy changing a tube in the ice cold conditions... But it'll happen now I've mentioned it ;)

    I did find my toes particularly cold this morning even with two pairs of socks, I'll try my overshoes on the way back tonight to see if that helps but generally my top half is warmer than the bottom so'll have to sort some warmer pants for the great British winter :s

    Blue meanie - ha ha ha can picture it now cyclist saves a motorist! You can never have too many zip ties!
  • Same boat here - just sold my sports car and kept the "sensible" one!!!!
    With some of the released cash doing on a roadie and an MTB for fun/commuting.
    I was a bit apprehensive re the bad weather (and in particular, the snowy) times.
    So far, the rain and windy season has not dampened my enthusiasm at all (in fact there is nothing quite like arriving home wet and bedraggled, but with a sense of fulfillment at completing the challenge and enjoying a nice hot shower).
    Snow is the only obstacle left, really - so thanks for the good advice above, and in a curiously masochistic way, i am sort of looking forward to it!!!
    Regards from The Slapster, Cornwall, UK

    Chronologically inept since 2026


    Who Rides Cubes:
    On the road - 2011 Cube Streamer
    On the trail - 2012 Cube Elite Super HPC Pro
  • On the subject of Commuting in the snow.

    Which tyres can people suggest??

    I currently have a set of road running tyres on my Rockhopper, so would going back to knobblies be the best for the winter season?? or stay with the road tyres as they are higher pressure??

    Or something else??

    Best regards and hope not to end up on ymar$e too mcuh from getting the choice wrong.

    Regards

    Paul
    "Commuterised" Specialized Rockhopper Disc 2004.
    FCN #7 - Skinny tyres and Cleats.
    1962 Rory O'Brien Roadie Lightweight. (but heavy by todays standards!)
    FCN #4
    2007 Specialized Roubaix Expert.
    FCN # 1/2 - Cobbly racing tyres and MTB cleats.
  • Best tip I found last year was when it is actually snowing, I put my ski goggles on so I could actually see where I was going :)
    Commuter: Litespeed Sienna, DA 7800
    Sunday Best: Cervelo S2 DA 7900
    Winter Hack: Cannondale Badboy discs for those really snowy commutes
    Spare: Trek 1200 (ali) with 9sd 105
    HED V04 TT being built
  • jefflad
    jefflad Posts: 315
    jodypress wrote:
    Best tip I found last year was when it is actually snowing, I put my ski goggles on so I could actually see where I was going :)

    LOL, my eyes were streaming this morning and I was thinking I needed to get glasses as the ones I have always mist up so I've dumped them... may be a bit overkill but love the idea, just need to find cheap ones ;)
  • jefflad
    jefflad Posts: 315
    Aerozine50 wrote:
    On the subject of Commuting in the snow.

    Which tyres can people suggest??

    I'm using marathon plus's have heard good things about them but this winter they'll be my weapon of choice.
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    There are also Marathon Winters:
    swlwinter2.jpg
    The Conti TopContact Winters look interesting: http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/arti ... yond-32327
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • I have marathon winters. Got them cheap, otherwise I wouldn't have bothered. Daren't use them in anything other than snow and ice as i don't want to wear out the studs on tarmac. I keep them at a fairly low psi too.

    As for cold feet - I swear by sealskins. Waterproof and windproof. Add a thin pair of merinos underneath if it gets rediculously cold, but I didn't have to bother last year.
    2007 Felt Q720 (the ratbike)
    2012 Cube Ltd SL (the hardtail XC 26er)
    2014 Lapierre Zesty TR 329 (the full-sus 29er)
  • Hello all, this is my first post on here.
    Cycling in snow - I've riden all thorough the last 2 winters. There was a lot of snow where I live (South Bucks). This is my advice, I do 24 miles a day & things I've learnt:

    1. If you have the option, switch to a MTB.

    2. Tyres (already mentioned on here) - you will get away with normal MTB tyres, but last winter I got a set of Schwalbe Ice Spiker. These tyres aren't cheap but are worth every penny. Lower the pressures for ice (approx 35 psi). Normal off road tyres are ok in fresh snow but no better after it has compacted & turned to ice. Beware though, tyres with studs are not the be all & end all, you still need to take it easy.

    3. Deep snow (anything over about 6 - 10 inches) - avoid, try & stay in ruts made by cars. It can throw you off if you're not careful. Also watch your pedal clearance in ruts.

    4. Clothing/equipment - mittens, walking boots, thermal top, shemagh, goggles/glasses, head band. I would advise against using SPD's. Get a pannier rack & ensure you carry warm kit (micro fleece & gortex jacket)

    5. Riding style - Be cautious, don't hesitate to put a foot down or walk if required. Allow extra time for your journey. Get out & practice before any 'have to do journey' such as riding to work. Riding in snow & ice is a skill. Use your eyes & ears - assume most drivers can't handle their vehicle in these conditions & will drive too fast on junction approaches etc. Be careful when pulling across a lane for right turns for example.

    6. Bike - Loads of lube the night before. Be aware that cables (brakes & gears) can seize, mechs' can seize. Spray lube on front & rear mechs. Remember that your brakes (if you have rim brakes) won't perform as well as normal. Your water may freeze in the bottle. Decent lights. Bang snow off your bike before parking so it doesn't freeze on it.

    7. YOU WILL LOVE IT!!!!!!! It took me a while to learn all this but it is well worth it. You soon warm up. IT IS GREAT. The stuff I've outlined above doesn't take long once you get into it.

    Anyway, good luck. I'm off to bed now!
  • Some good advice above. I've done my fair share of snow cycling. I'd say the limit was about 4" is the limit before I start to lose rear traction caused by snow wedging under the front wheel - depends upon the type of snow. Last couple of years I've used Ice Spikers but I suspect Marathon Winters will be better as they are narrower. Hi Viz is particularly effective in the snow because of the reflected light. Be aware too of your front wheel tram-lining in other people's frozen wheel tracks. It's fun but harder work so allow much more time - up to double depending upon what you normally ride.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • Also,
    when the road's a bit clearer, pop a few wheelies/bunnyhops to dislodge accumulated snow from frame/mechs/brakes.
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc
  • MichaelW
    MichaelW Posts: 2,164
    Tyre selection is crucial.
    For fresh snow, rutted snow and slush, knobbly MTB tyres are OK. For ice, only studded tyres will get a grip.
    Marathon winters are good on clear, icy roads but lack the knobbles for slushier conditions. Some good info here.
    I made some DIY studs from a fairly cheap MTB tyre with large, well defined knobbles. I put a 3/8" panhead self-tapping screw, about 30 per tyre. Not a durable as carbide studs but I should get a 2nd season out of them. In an emergency you can use zipties for extra grip but you cant repair flats.
    Consider a 2nd set of wheels for studded tyres.
    You need to take care when putting your foot down, you have more grip with the tyres than feet. Clipless pedals clog up and its hard to unclip once a slide starts. The shoes are mostly not very good in winter unless you splash out on special winter boots. Hiking boots or trail shoes do OK.
    Take a wooly hat and an insulation layer for repairs; padded gillet style is versatile. Some people carry nitrile rubber gloves for winter repairs.
  • I cycle all year around and have for a few years, I do though.

    a) live in london.

    b) have the nuclear option of the MTB with soft compound mud spikes, but unless it's so bad landrovers etc are getting stuck it's not needed.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    I have marathon winters. Got them cheap, otherwise I wouldn't have bothered. Daren't use them in anything other than snow and ice as i don't want to wear out the studs on tarmac.

    But you aren't worried about wearing the rubber out on tarmac? What is going to wear out first - the soft squashy black stuff or the really hard metally stuff?! :lol:

    Marathon Winters are most useful on tarmac in wet, sub zero conditions. I ran them for a couple of weeks last year and really, they weren't needed as I didn't hit ice. But I did cover plenty of miles and the only issue is losing studs altogether. The studs themselves don't really wear much being harder than the tarmac.

    Of course, unless folk are complacent what with the lack of winter so far, if you haven't got your Marathon Winters now, you are probably too late!
    Faster than a tent.......
  • Twostage
    Twostage Posts: 987
    I can never keep my hands warm in winter (reynards syndrome) but sweat bands on the wrist help. Overshoes help with the feet. Buff or skull cap under the helmet stops the brain freezing. Fresh snow is ok, melted and re-frozen is a nightmare but you just have to find a route which is clear or get off and walk.
    Yep, you will save money, stay fit and enjoy it.
  • fossyant
    fossyant Posts: 2,549
    I bought Schwalbe Snow Studs for my MTB in Jan 2010, so have seen both Snowy winters.

    You won't wear out tungsten carbide studs. The MTB is now sat shod with studs awaiting any ice or snow as that's when the 23mm fixed road bike isn't used. Haven't missed any days commuting since getting those tyres.

    I am lucky enough to have an off road route I can use, so when it's really bad, you aren't messing with cars. Riding in thick snow is fine, just have to watch the transition from tyre ruts to the fresh fluffy stuff.

    I found that when the snow was really bad, and there were lots of ruts in the road (before the cars had properly compressed it) I took to the pavement (yes I know, but there were bugger all peds or cars going anywhere). I even got encouragement from a few peds as I pedalled past.

    The only down side of the tyres is they are slow on tarmac, but and knobblies are.

    Marathon Winters - great for road and ice, not so good off road or in snow.
    Snow Studs, slow on road, but still a MTB tyre, slightly narrow and work well on ice and snow.
    Ice Spikers - slow on road, excellent on ice, although struggle a little in snow (quite wide).
  • jefflad wrote:

    I did find my toes particularly cold this morning even with two pairs of socks.

    Try long ski socks to help with cold feet.Shins are pretty much square on to the wind,keeping them warmer will have a knock on effect for your feet.
  • RowCycle
    RowCycle Posts: 367
    I commute to work all year around (15min). I usually use a single speed (freewheel not fixed) road bike. When it snows I use my mtb with big fat, low psi, tyres.

    I agree with the points initialised made.

    Cycling in thin fresh snow is a lot harder than I thought.
  • jefflad
    jefflad Posts: 315
    jefflad wrote:

    I did find my toes particularly cold this morning even with two pairs of socks.

    Try long ski socks to help with cold feet.Shins are pretty much square on to the wind,keeping them warmer will have a knock on effect for your feet.

    Thanks, I'll have a look for some in the shops as I was looking at sealskinz the other day but frightened off by the price :oops:
  • tomb353
    tomb353 Posts: 196
    another vote for Marathon Winter.

    This will be my 3rd winter with them, have never missed a days commute despite it hitting -10 last year (Newcastle).

    My routine now is that the front tyre is changed to marathon winter when temperature first drops below freezing (so not yet this year). That way I do not come a cropper on black ice.

    When it snows I put the back tyre on as well, other than that the bike stays unmodified (cyclocross).

    The tyres are amazing, you can run them fine when there is no snow, they just make a bit of noise and are a bit heavy. You can ride on sheet ice.

    As someone says above the problem is not snow, you can ride on fresh powder on most tyres. Equally when its snowed you can carry your bike to the nearest gritted road and then ride with no problems. When you need ice tyres is riding side roads or paths with compacted ice, or on main roads when ridges of ice form after days of snow fall and the gritting isn't often enough / no longer works.

    Part of what you are paying for is the security of knowing you are very unlikely to come off and will get home whatever happens.

    If you have disk or hub brakes then a DIY alternative to ice spikes is to put cable tyres around the rim and tyre to bite into the ice, they wear off but just replace. Apparently this works but have never tried it myself.
    vendor of bicycle baskets & other stuff www.tynebicycle.co.uk
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  • jefflad wrote:
    jefflad wrote:

    I did find my toes particularly cold this morning even with two pairs of socks.

    Try long ski socks to help with cold feet.Shins are pretty much square on to the wind,keeping them warmer will have a knock on effect for your feet.

    Thanks, I'll have a look for some in the shops as I was looking at sealskinz the other day but frightened off by the price :oops:


    Warmer trousers/tights will really help keep your feet warm - work on the same principle. Sealskinz I think are horrible but I have to admit that they are a "Marmite" product - some people swear by them.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH