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SKS Chromaplastic mudguard fitting

essjaydeeessjaydee Posts: 917
edited November 2011 in The workshop
Hiya

Just fitted a set of these to my Voodoo marasa hybrid, and thought I'd post my experience for anyone contemplating fitting a set of guards :wink:

My bike has disc brakes and a Topeak super tourist rack fitted, so I was a bit concerned that this would be a major headache. But it wasn't and was pretty straightforward in the end.

I have 700x28 mararthon tyres, and after much deliberation went for the 35-38 road guards, as this would give me the option of going for wider tyres if I ever wanted to.

On arrival they are packed well with a good instruction leaflet provided. I fitted the front first (easiest). Had to use one of the brake caliper attachment bolts to fit the mudguard stay to, so put a slightly longer bolt in to compensate for the width of the stay. Easily sourced from any good hardware shop. Because of this had to cut the stay shorter on the caliper side, but easily done with a good pair of pliars (cutters). I just scored the stay all round where I wanted to cut it and then held it with a pair of molegrips and bent the off cut repeatedly, until it snapped off. Only took a couple of bending movements to break. The rest was straightforward as per the instructions.

To fit the rear guard I removed the rack first. Again had to use one of the caliper bolts and again put a slightly longer bolt in as per the front. You get a clip provided for the lower front end of the mudguard, but I couldn't use this as the mudguard was touching the front mech, so I used a long bolt (supplied) with some large penny washers to space the mudguard away from the front mech. Only took a couple of minutes to do. Fitted the rest of the mudguard as per the instructions. Then refitted the rack, which needed a bit of adjustment to the front attachments, but again easily done.

Overall it took me a couple of hours (max) to fit these. Didn't take any specialist tools other than a pair of good pliers and molegrips, and a couple of additional bolts and washers, which I had in the shed anyway.

They look great on the bike and will be a great benefit on those wet commutes 8)

Posts

  • meanredspidermeanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Blimey - took me about 20 minutes to fit mine to the Bordman CX.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • GussioGussio Posts: 2,452
    Probably took me about 2hrs to fit on a Pompino, with much hacksawing of stays and drilling of a hole in the rear guard to allow a bolt to be inserted inline with the seatpost.

    Happy with the job and delighted to enjoy dry feet and behind.
  • sfichelesfichele Posts: 605
    I found these an absolute b%#t4rd$ to fit to a BTwin Sport 1. I had to hacksaw clearance into my forks. However once fitted they are awesome mudguards
  • Mr PlumMr Plum Posts: 1,097
    sfichele wrote:
    I found these an absolute b%#t4rd$ to fit to a BTwin Sport 1. I had to hacksaw clearance into my forks. However once fitted they are awesome mudguards

    :shock:

    Do you mean that you took a hacksaw to the guards to create some clearance around the forks... or you actually took a hacksaw to your forks?!
    FCN 2 to 8
  • Mr Plum wrote:
    sfichele wrote:
    I found these an absolute b%#t4rd$ to fit to a BTwin Sport 1. I had to hacksaw clearance into my forks. However once fitted they are awesome mudguards

    :shock:

    Do you mean that you took a hacksaw to the guards to create some clearance around the forks... or you actually took a hacksaw to your forks?!

    humm, I'm interested now!
  • symosymo Posts: 1,743
    Where can I buy spare bolts for the SKS guards? Wiggle used to do them but now doesn't seem to, and I have lost one.
    +++++++++++++++++++++
    we are the proud, the few, Descendents.

    Panama - finally putting a nail in the economic theory of the trickle down effect.
  • MichaelWMichaelW Posts: 2,164
    When you cut down the metal stays you have to round the sharp edges off with a file. The small plastic cap will protect you until it falls off. In everyday use the sharp end can rip clothing. In a crash it can rip much more.
    If rack and mudguard stays share the same bolt, the rack should go innermost to reduce bending on the bolt. This is tricky with those extended disc-specific racks.
    If the plastic of the mudguard interferes with the front mech you can remove some. I nibble away at the plastic with a Dremel or file. Usually you need to thin the area between the chainstays. If you have a threaded eyelet on the chainstay bridge you can drill and bolt the mudguard in place. With no eyelet, you can use the supplied metalwork bracket but it is much better to use a single small ziptie. Drill small hole 1cm from the tip and wrap small tie around the bridge.
  • symosymo Posts: 1,743
    So no-one has a link to where to buy the rounded ended nut things for the fender arms?
    +++++++++++++++++++++
    we are the proud, the few, Descendents.

    Panama - finally putting a nail in the economic theory of the trickle down effect.
  • GussioGussio Posts: 2,452
    symo wrote:
    So no-one has a link to where to buy the rounded ended nut things for the fender arms?

    You can probably buy a 100 of the things from ScrewFix for a quid or so.
  • You can get spares for these from SJS Cycles, I think there about a quid or so each.
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