Fulcrum/Campag Freehub Bearings - easy to change?
Bearings in the freehub of a mate's Fulcrum 3 wheel are knackered.
Anyone ever managed to get the bearings out?
Easy to drift out or are there any secret circlips or suchlike?
And are the bearings standard ISO or Campag specials (like in their UT bottom brackets. Grrrr!!)
Anyone ever managed to get the bearings out?
Easy to drift out or are there any secret circlips or suchlike?
And are the bearings standard ISO or Campag specials (like in their UT bottom brackets. Grrrr!!)
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Bearings come out easily - drift the outside one, remove the circlip and remove the inside bearing.
Do the opposite to replace. 1/2 hour easy job.0 -
Thanks guys. I'll give it a go.
Any idea of the bearing number/size type?0 -
Wiggle sell replacement kits, or just google replacement bearings, plenty around.0
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Thanks for that Mac, but those links are for freehubs and hub spares but not freehub spares!
l can get bearings easily enough but was hoping someone might know the bearing numbers - something like 6001-2RS maybe, so that I can pre-order them.0 -
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Mac, again thanks. That was the answer I was fearing. Non-standard bearings in the freehub and the distributors don't import bearings from Fulcrum/Campag. Grrrrr!
So, replacement bearings would normally cost something like £5.00 or a complete replacement freehub at £60.
Jim Walkers (iRide) aren't daft are they?
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get the bearing out and use a micrometer ID, OD and thickness, then go to a bearing shopRecipe: shave legs sparingly, rub in embrocation and drizzle with freshly squeezed baby oil.0
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I know this reply is a bit late but I stumbled across this recently and I thought I'd add my own experience with my Fulcrum Racing 5's.
Tools required:
a socket set (for bearing removal and installation)
a plastic mallet or hammer
circlip pliers
grease
2x 61901 2RS Bearings (12x24x6)
Use a large flat screwdriver or a socket extender to move the centre tube between the 2 bearings to one side and tap out the outmost bearing. The other bearing will be secured in place with a circlip which must be removed before tapping out. Clean, grease the inside of the freehub and tap in one of your new bearings, put the circlip back in and nip into place followed by the centre tube. Tap in the remaining bearing which should sit flush with the inner part of the freehub. Replace back onto the hub body.
I know this is brief and lacking pictures but at least it's something to work with.0 -
to make the tappingout easier, heat up the freehub with a hot air gun and the bearings will virtually fall out. Keep the freehub hot when fitting the new bearings (cold) and they will drop in.Recipe: shave legs sparingly, rub in embrocation and drizzle with freshly squeezed baby oil.0
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Quick update on this:
Just did my 2012 Racing 3's. The procedure was exactly as explained above (thanks SkeetAM - you saved me a lot of money!) but the bearing size was 6803_2RS. The bearing size should be printed on the dust cover of the bearing itself so just check before you buy.
As a side note, have I missed something or does anybody else think the sealing on these hubs is rubbish? Looking at the cassette side, if you remove the cassette lock ring, you can see the dust cover of the bearing! :shock: Surely there should be some rubber or metal sealing to keep the crud out. Anyway just IMHO.. (rant over)0 -
2RS bearings are perfect sealed, so what's the problem?0
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I'm sure they are. It's just other hubs I've had have a 'dust cap' - usually a part of the axle nut washer - which covers the whole space where the bearings are housed.
Also, from my own experience, and from looking at this and other forums, it would appear that water ingress and fast wear on the freehub bearings of these hubs seems to be a particular problem - which would suggest the sealing is not 'perfect', and indeed not adequate.0 -
Kinesis_Oli wrote:Also, from my own experience, and from looking at this and other forums, it would appear that water ingress and fast wear on the freehub bearings of these hubs seems to be a particular problem - which would suggest the sealing is not 'perfect', and indeed not adequate.
Of course it isn't adequate. Unless you buy the CX version, the bearings supplied are only sealed on the outer side. Water does get through to the inside eventually where it has only the grease to stop it getting to the bearing surfaces.
Really Campag are taking the pee by simply not putting double sealed bearings in the wheels as standard. It's a bit insulting - 'we are going to save 5p on the wheel by putting cheaper single sided bearings in the hope you'll just buy a new wheel or at least a new freehub when the bearings go prematurely'.Faster than a tent.......0 -
Never understood those single sealed bearings, maybe there 's a philosophy but I can't imagine one..
Pressing grease through a little hole like in the old days?0 -
The campag distributer (not mentioning names) wanted to sell me a new freehub for nearly £50 which is a complete waste as there's only a circle holding the two sets of bearings in. If you use pete.whelan's method of using a hot air gun they will fall out and you've saved £46.0
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With the help of this bard I replaced the freehub bearings on my two year old Fulcrum Racing Quattro wheels fairly easily.
The two bearings in the freehub were just shot, rusted up, worn out and falling apart. You notice noise and free play in the freehub&cassette.
I ordered two new 6803_2RS from a local bearing distributor, these came with double sided seals, hopefully will last longer.
You need basic tools to take apart the wheel, undo one bolt and spacer, and remove the freehub by just pulling it off the axle, knock the outermost bearing out of its race with a socket and hammer, then turn it sideways and pull it back out. Then remove the circlip retaining the inner bearing with small needlenose pliers to pull the circlip together using the two holes in its ends. Then knock the inner bearing out from the other side.
I warmed up the freehub body in hot water and pressed the new bearings in with a socket and very light tapping. Grease, re-install the freehub and tighten up the retaining nut. Done. Good as new, possibly more durable with the two sided seals.
Total cost was $5, compared to $90 for a new body. Thanks again to board members for the advice.
Apparently the same freehub and freehub bearings are used for Fulcrum racing 1-3 as well (although the wheel bearings themselves differ).
You can also get fancy and install ceramic bearings for $25 per race.0 -
A couple of points to add.
Firstly the standard bearings fitted by Fulcrum (Camapagnolo) are hardened steel. The reason they don't last long is the outer is subject to water ingress and goes rusty. The water penetrates the seals eventually and the bearings then fall apart or seize. Water makes its way through the outer bearing to the inner bearing as Fulcrum only use a seal on one side of the bearings.
Best thing to do is follow the various instructions above, but to replace them with stainless steel bearings, cost about £1 more but will not rust and if you use 68032RS (two rubber seals) then your bearings are sealed for life.
I would advise against using ceramics in the freehub as the balls can shatter and the bearing then fail (ask me how I know...). Ceramics should be fine as replacement wheel bearings (not the freehub) in the lower end fulcrums as they don't get loads like chain off, or chains moving up and down the cassette.
Bob0 -
Just bumped into this thread and saved myself £50...thanks guys!
And FWIW the (now shattered) original bearings lasted 4 summers, 1 winter and about 16,000km...
cheers!0 -
Just an update...
Getting the first bearing out was easy...it basically fell out in pieces...however the second one would not move:-(
Both the circlip and the bearing itself are fused to the body...tried heat, cold, brute force, nothing helped...the circlip and the inner part plus the balls all came out eventually but the outer ring is there to stay.
I then noticed that 3 of the 6 pawls were semi-gone, so ended up buying a new freehub body from the cycle clinic, dropped it in and all is well again now!!!0 -
Hi guys - I have a loose freehub on a rackng 3 and it sounds like this 'maybe' the solution.
When fitting the Freehub on the axle the ring does not fully sit down and it extends over the threads. Do you think this is the same?0 -
Did you get it done? Post some pics up so we can see it.0
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sorry to necro an old thread, but this has been doing my nutt in, so i thought i'd jump in.
I have been trying to repair my Quattro freehub and have been having no end of issues (usually caused by me buying the wrong bits!)
I can confirm 6903 are definitely the wrong bearings, and i've now orders some 6803 (2RS) which should be here soon.
I've also had issues getting the first bearing out, and am due to borrow some circlip pliers tomorrow to have a go at the 2nd. This whole thing has been a nightmare and has put me off Fulcrums!
I've also had a shop replace my front wheel bearings, so both sets had gone for me within about 2 years of riding (and not many winter miles)
I was planning for my next wheelset to be Zonda's, but i'm now thinking i'll save up a bit more and get Shimano R81 C35's0 -
Don't really see the problem with the Campagnolo/Fulcrum freehubs.
Outer bearing comes out easy with screwdriver/ punch and inner after removing circlip either with pliers (holes ) or after drilling 2 mm hole in freehub and push out with a spoke.
Push in with socket on outer ring.
Shimano has its own difficulty's ...but different.0 -
New Ultegra wheels WH-RS700-C30 should be available soon, also the new Fulcrum Racing 3 with a wider rim.IdolOracle wrote:but i'm now thinking i'll save up a bit more and get Shimano R81 C35's
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Keezx wrote:Don't really see the problem with the Campagnolo/Fulcrum freehubs.
Outer bearing comes out easy with screwdriver/ punch and inner after removing circlip either with pliers (holes ) or after drilling 2 mm hole in freehub and push out with a spoke.
Push in with socket on outer ring.
Shimano has its own difficulty's ...but different.
I totally agree. I actually found it easier to change the bearings on my Fulcrum 7s than my old shimano rs81s.0 -
the bearings didn't come out "easily" - in fact i was whaling on them for ages with a punch and hammer, even after trying to heat the hub up with a hairdryer. Anyway the buggers are out now, and the new 6803's went in much easier. Now that i've done the whole thing from start to finish, i'd be happy to do it again, but when i was half way (i had to borrow circlip pliers from a friend, so it was all a bit stop-start) i really felt it was all a bit daft.
UIt C30s look good, albeit a bit pricey, but i guess the RRP won't last long0
