Brake cable for cross style levers

The Rookie
The Rookie Posts: 27,812
edited October 2011 in The workshop
I'm about to change from my clunky MTB style brake levers to some I picked up off ebay that were on a Marin single speed (no makers name in/on them at all), they are similar to cross style levers where the inner locates in the housing and pulling the lever pulls the end of the outer away from it.

Long story short, what cable do I use, a drum end would work, but look tatty, the longer brake end (sprt of like a big gear cable end) locates nicely but stick out even further while I tried a gear cable and the end is JUST too big to go into the apeture (but may do with some cleaning up) - suggestions?

Simon
Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

Comments

  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    You do know you shouldn't use gear cables as brake cables, right?

    As for the solution to your problem, I'm having trouble understanding your description, though, if I'm correct in inferring that you're trying to use in-line brake levers as the "end" brake lever, I can't see how you'd do that.
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    They are inline style levers but were being used as end levers on the bike they came off.

    Not using gear as brake cables, 'shouldn't' is fine if you explain why perhaps, sure they are not as substantial but as long as they don't break, what does it matter?

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    Gear cables are thinner than brake cables. If they don't break, then it'd probably be ok, but frankly I'd be too scared of running a thinner cable because it'd be under the most strain when you really need it!
    You must never use gear housing (outers) for brakes though, as the gear housing is much weaker and will simply rupture.

    I'm not sure there's an easy neat solution; the crosstop levers simply weren't built to hold the end of the cables.

    Edit: Ah, maybe this will help.
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    davis wrote:
    I'm not sure there's an easy neat solution; the crosstop levers simply weren't built to hold the end of the cables.
    I'm trying to find out what was on the Marin they came off as that is what they were doing from the factory.

    Thanks for the link, mentions pear type ends but the ones I have are too long, maybe shorter are available!

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    It looks like the FGSS boys on flats use pear ended cables http://www.lfgss.com/thread23574.html , I'll maybe try trimming down the smaller diameter bit so the pear end sits flusher or maybe try a different brand!

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    Not using gear as brake cables, 'shouldn't' is fine if you explain why perhaps, sure they are not as substantial but as long as they don't break, what does it matter?

    Simon

    But that's the point, they might break, and if they do it'll be when you need them most: when you're pulling the brake lever hard because a lorry has just pulled out in front of you. You grab the lever and *ping*....no brakes :shock:
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • Hi, I've got the set up you describe. The brakes work fine with normal STI drop bar brake cables. Yes, the ends do stick out of the levers a bit, but they don't get in the way or look too naff and as davis says, they're a lot safer than trying to use gear cables.
    Hope that helps !
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    OK thanks for that, I think I'll find some pear ended cables that have a nicer profile than the ones I have now which are a bit longer and clunkier looking than some I've seen (in pics).

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Just to tidy this up, I went into the LBS and they pulled out all their brake cables for me and I picked on with the lowest profile head and shortest shank piece, ironicly it was also the cheapest they sold!

    Fitted, looks fine and are 60g lighter than the old Deore levers!

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • A good quality gear inner used as a brake inner won't snap because it's 'weaker' any quicker than the cheapest 'no-name' brake inner. It's corrosion that spells the end of an inner's life. So long as your cheap inner is 'pre-lubed' should be ok. (Where pre-lube is internal.)
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Your average cable (brake or gear) is unlikely to snap under tension. I'd have thought that the diameter was more to do with the amount of stretch (especially "elastic" stretch) you get and therefore brake lever travel for a given applied load (the cycling equivalent of spongy brakes on a car)
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH