My nuts keep coming lose! - and a bearing problem.

alibear
alibear Posts: 3
edited September 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
I know very little about bikes but am needing to start riding again so that I can teach my son. I have been given a cheap mountain bike (Halfords Apollo Aerotec 5600 ) but all is not well. It has had a whole host of problems with it's rear wheel and I think I've got it half fixed but not fully.
Initially the wheel was rubbing on the frame of the bike so I added a spacer and a washer, this resolved the problem. While I was doing that I noticed that one of the bearings was also missing, the other was completely shot and the axle had a big gouge out of it so I put a new axle on and new bearings. I have also used a spoke key on it.

The problem is this - when I pedal hard the rear wheel nuts start to come lose, also I found that after a 2-3 minute ride the new bearings were completely ruined.

The inside of the wheel hub doesn't look/feel smooth - is this what is damaging the bearing? or have I done the nuts up too tight squashing the bearings in an attempt to stop the nuts coming lose? Why might the nuts still be coming lose?

Not sure whether to carry on trying to fix it or just give up, money is tight so I darent fork out for a new wheel incase it doesn't address the problems. Any help and advice would be very much apprieciated.
Thanks in advance

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If the bearing race inside the wheel (On which the bearings run) is shot it will trash the new bearings, your best bet is to look around for a good used wheel, it's not worth buying new at that level of bike. With a bit of luck you should be able to get one for under a tenner.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The wheel should run smoothly on the axle. Too tight and you'll feel it grinding a little. Too loose and you'll get a little play. But in there you have a locking nut which should keep it all tight. There shouldn't be any need to overtighten it onto the bearings.

    I have to say though, if this is a cheap apollo bike...how much is a cheap wheel...£20? Secondhand? £5? If you ask around, someone would probably give you one..
  • OK fabulous, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I shall look for a replacement wheel and have a looksee at the nuts again - a locking one ...hmmm they looked like regular ones to me, bet they have been replaced at some point.
    Feeling a bit more confident now :)
    Thank you
  • alibear wrote:
    ...and have a looksee at the nuts again - a locking one ...hmmm they looked like regular ones to me, bet they have been replaced at some point.

    What you generally have, on the inside, as in the nuts that sit on the inside of the frame (the ones that secure the axle in place), is two nuts. One to tighten the axle in place. Obviously this one doesn't really go properly tight, as you end up squashing the bearings. So you have another that goes tight against that one. Which basically serves to stop the other one from loosening. It's kinda like tying a not twice, I guess...

    But a new wheel would probably be the best option.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    To clarify the butchers post, on the wheel axle on either side you have the cone on which the bearings run which you adjust and then a locknut to stop the cone undoing itself (its just a plain nut) then you have the two main nuts that hold the wheel in the frame.

    in this link http://bike.shimano.com.br/media/techdo ... 746213.pdf the locknuts are at far right and left, cheaper hubs won't have seals etc, but the cones are the pieces just outboard the the ball bearings.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.