double or triple

nickbec
nickbec Posts: 36
edited September 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
I want to fit a new crank set and was thinking of switching over to a double. What are the benifits?
Are they any more complicated than the triple?

Comments

  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Well there's only 2 rings, as opposed to 3, so if anything they're less 'complicated'...

    It depends on the ratios you're thinking of running. You can either go for a 22/36 type, which will mean you lose a few at the top end, but retain your lowest gear and gain more ground clearance, have a better chainline in the 'outer' ring, and few duplicate ratios. You may find yourself spinning out if you ride on the road to the trails.

    Or you can go for a more 'XC' type like 28/42 which means you'll lose one off the top and a couple off the bottom, but again get better chainline, fewer duplicates etc.

    It rather depends what you don't like about your triple. If you never use the outer, and think a bash guard would be useful then the former is a good option. If you never use the granny, and find the big ring a bit tall then the latter works well.

    You can of course get every combination in between (24/38, 26/39 etc).

    I've not run a triple for the last 6 years, and wouldn't go back.
  • C0LL0
    C0LL0 Posts: 271
    njee20, thats a good reply, I've always thought more the better, I didn't think about duplicated gear ratios, so why am I carry more weight with an extra ring when I don't even use the big one!
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Exactly. If you go for a 36t 'middle' you'll be able to use the whole cassette in both ring, so less shifting on the front. You lose the top 3 gears IIRC vs a 44t outer ring.
  • nickbec
    nickbec Posts: 36
    ok great thanks. Will I have to shorten the chain to fit the new double?
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Won't have to, but you may as well.

    Similarly you don't need a shorter cage mech, but you can use one, so when the time comes you may as well get a shorter cage.
  • 1mancity2
    1mancity2 Posts: 2,355
    If you like your decents fast and wild fit a chain device which will help to stop the chain coming off.
    Finished, Check out my custom Giant Reign 2010
    Dirt Jumper Dmr Sidekick2
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Or just set your front mech up properly and don't pedal backwards... No need for a chainguide IMO.
  • Ryan Jones
    Ryan Jones Posts: 775
    Need to shorten the chain though, if you're going to do it right
    My Nukeproof Mega TR
  • dusk
    dusk Posts: 583
    I just don't find the big ring necessary on off road riding. shifting the front mech is more of a pain than the rear but I kept having to go to my big ring to keep some chain tension, so i've just bought an SLX double chainset
    YT Wicked 160 ltd
    Cotic BFe
    DMR Trailstar
    Canyon Roadlite

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