Wheel advice
Malcolm44
Posts: 9
Hello peeps
Been here for a while and am confused with the amount of choice.
Background:
50 y.o. male doing cycling as a means to stay fit, have done Etape Caledonia, and nearly done PFS sportive (see later). Have a Boardman Pro Carbon. weigh 16st
Now here is the reason for my question. The stock wheels (Richey rims) on the boardman have a history of throwing spokes (I have broken about 6 in the 18 months I have had it). This was highly depressing yesterday when I have to abandon the PFS sportive in sight of Edinburgh when tthe second spoke on the rear went (first one went at 40 miles but managed to open brake and limp along to where I eventually stopped at 84 miles). The wheel is probably a right-off (cracks at two of the nipple holes) so I am thinking a new wheelset.
I know that a lot of people have issues with bike gear wrt weight, brand, ultra high spec etc, but I am happy to be able to get from A to B easier rather than quicker (lets face it at 50 I am not likely to enter the TDF!! or win any sprints). I an thinking on the Mavic Aksiums if they are rather bullet proof (and can take my weight - and before anyone says loose weight - I am a naturally big guy and to be honest my target weight at a slimming club would be 15 1/2 st). I do have a budget, but can be flexible with HID to up that. Any suggestions would be apperciated
Been here for a while and am confused with the amount of choice.
Background:
50 y.o. male doing cycling as a means to stay fit, have done Etape Caledonia, and nearly done PFS sportive (see later). Have a Boardman Pro Carbon. weigh 16st
Now here is the reason for my question. The stock wheels (Richey rims) on the boardman have a history of throwing spokes (I have broken about 6 in the 18 months I have had it). This was highly depressing yesterday when I have to abandon the PFS sportive in sight of Edinburgh when tthe second spoke on the rear went (first one went at 40 miles but managed to open brake and limp along to where I eventually stopped at 84 miles). The wheel is probably a right-off (cracks at two of the nipple holes) so I am thinking a new wheelset.
I know that a lot of people have issues with bike gear wrt weight, brand, ultra high spec etc, but I am happy to be able to get from A to B easier rather than quicker (lets face it at 50 I am not likely to enter the TDF!! or win any sprints). I an thinking on the Mavic Aksiums if they are rather bullet proof (and can take my weight - and before anyone says loose weight - I am a naturally big guy and to be honest my target weight at a slimming club would be 15 1/2 st). I do have a budget, but can be flexible with HID to up that. Any suggestions would be apperciated
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Comments
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I've always been impressed by the strength of Mavic OpenPro 32h rims, when apired with Ultegra hubs it's a very nice combo.--
FCN 90 -
Hello Malcolm, welcome on board.
My advice would be to get some nice decent handbuilts. You haven't outlined your budget but if you could stretch to £300 then you could get something really good (and very maintainable) from the usual candidates like Harry Rowlands/Wheelsmiths. I could list all the options but your best bet would be to call them, explain what you want/why/what for/the budget and then let them give you the benefit of their expert advice. I am thinking something like 36 Sapim or DT Swiss spokes, Open Pro rims with Shimano Ultegra/105 hubs but there are loads and loads of options (which will vary the budget greatly).0 -
heh heh, looks like we were typing the same thing at the same time
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+1 for the above 2 posts!
However, if you don't want to go to custom builds then consider Shimanos as they have no upper weight limit (unlike Mavics). RS80s are the dogs doo dahs if you can stretch to 350quid or RS20s if you're nearer to 150quid budget.
Either way it'll be money well spent, there really is no need to put up with regularly popping spokes these days.
Regards, EarlyGo0 -
I had a pair of Mavic Open Pros and Shimano hubs built by Harry Rowlands.
I am very pleased with the wheels, the service and the price.
Give Harry a call, you won't be disappointed.0 -
You've had some bad luck. I suspect the wheel was tensioned unevenly (machine built wheels can be) and you were unlucky. It is often the case though that if one goes you're plagued by more (mostly because it takes time to detension a wheel and build it up even rather than just threading on a new spoke and calling it done).
I'd go with handbuilts if the budget will stretch or Fulcrums if it won't. Reasons below -
Handbuilts - Number of spokes, rim weight etc can be tailored to you, spoke tension will be checked and checked again by any decent builder and should a spoke break you will be able to get hold of replacements cheaply.
Fulcrums - The whole range is built on the strong end of the spectrum. I've put about 20,000 miles in total into the 7's, 5's and 3's I have. The 7's have done must miles and never been out of true, the 5's are slightly out after a year and the 3's I rode (and raced) to destruction. Not one spoke broken from any of them (several freehubs but everything has a weakness). 7's and 5's are a little flexy though.0 -
Thanks for the advice guys. For your information Ihave gone for Fulcrum 5's based on their reported strength. As stated before I am only looking for reliability not speed, so those seen to be the best fit at present. Many thanks again guys0
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Do some homework re the Fulcrums. They definately do state a rider weight limit. I can't remember the limits are but if you look on their website it is in there somewhere.
I have the 5s BTW, very nice wheels that've given me no problems, but i'm sub 80kgs.0 -
To the OP, if at all possible cancel your order.
For reliability then a good set of handbuilts based around good hubs (I'd avoid shimano purely because of the maintenance requirement) with some good rims.
My suggestion would be hope hubs, and dt double butted spokes although I'd probably avoid mavic rims as they're not as good as they used to be. My suggestion would be IRD clyde rims for something bombproof or cadence for lighter but still strong.
The strength of wheels comes from the build so a good builder is essential.0 -
yes I checked their site. I am below their limit re the weight. I know that they may not be everyone.s personal preference. but the way I was thinking was that my LBS is the one who has been replacing the current spokes.
With a hand built, is he capable/able to maintain it if it goes wrong (there are many potholes around where I live)?. There are not many choices with regards to LBS near by. So stock wheels that can be ordered and delivered in three days would be the better option against no ride for waiting on a handbuilt getting sent away checked and returned.
I hope that I have made the right choice. but I see its a decision I may have to regret WRT my weight as not many options are open (bearing in mind the reasons stated)0 -
I don't think you'll regret getting the 5s Malcolm. Its not much time to get a long term idea but ive had mine 6 months, still running very well. As for the strength of them, i can vouch for that....
Coming into work, distracted for a moment, didnt see the storm drain cover i always knew was there, stuck my wheel down it...BANG. Jesus, you moron Colin (me)...nervously checked the wheel...nothing, still true, no damage to the rims, and it was a hell of a bang.
Co-incidentally, when i had the tyre off some time later, you could see the marks on the innertube where i'd gone down the drain.
Funnily enough, as stated above re flexiness...i don't sense it on mine, while i definately do on my WH-R500s.0 -
Hello there Malcolm44,
Nothing wrong with the F5's so you haven't made a bad choice.
Just to clarify the picture regarding handbuilts, one of the main attractions is that your LBS (and you) will be able to maintain them (they don't have to go back to the builder) so they are more likely to be out of action less overall than a factory wheel.
Factory built wheels often have special spokes/nipples (which can take ages to get) and retruing them can be very difficult (specially when you get down to 18 spokes, etc.). The low spoke counts can also be a problem because it generally means that if you pop one then you are calling for a broom wagon because the rim will flex so much whereas losing one spoke on a 36 and you can limp home by removing the broken spoke and loosening off the brakes...not ideal and a bit hairy but better than trying to walk 30 miles in road shoes. Canny tourers often have a spare spoke taped to the frame and a spoke key in the bag just in case.
However, having said all that, the F5s should get you through the winter no problem and then last for ages beyond that. Enjoy your riding.0 -
I agree regarding handbuilts. If your LBS are truing a factory wheel then they should be able to replace a handbuilt wheel spoke and true that.
I've just got my first pair of handbuilts and am very happy with them. They are 50mm carbon clinchers on Novatec superlight hubs with Sapim CX Ray spokes. They are just fantastic! I posted on another thread a week or two back regarding the differences between these and my stock MOst Chall clinchers fitted originally on my Pinarello. Search my nick and you should find it.
I went to watch the Tour of Britain stage three yesterday and got lots of compliments regarding my bike/ wheels. One of the guys manning a stall selling cycling gear at the finish, who races, asked how much they were as he thought they were a great looking wheel. When I told him £680 he nearly fell over - check the price of a pair of Zipp 404s! Some nice black lad asked if he could have a picture with me and my bike - I explained I wasn't in the race and he just replied "yeah, but you just look cool man!"
PP0 -
I get the implications on certain wheels if you weigh above a certain weight but what happens if you're light.
I'm currently 55kg, is there any particular wheel I should discount or can I go for any?
Thanks0 -
Any - but no need to buy those 48 spoke 5 cross 622x24 wheels.0
