sram x9 short cage rear mech.

Paulkingk
Paulkingk Posts: 689
edited September 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
Are short cage rear mech compatible with a standard mtb cassette i.e. 11 -32 tooth. I got hold of the above mech second hand and can't get it to shift right. it's slow to drop onto the 11t cog but then ifi shift in to the 32 it won't start shifting back down the block unless i do a little endo and hit the back wheel down to give it a nudge. have new cable inners and outers and am running it with an sram x5 shifter straightened mech hanger too. 9 speed by the way

Comments

  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    If you undo the cable, does it drop back to the 11t?
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  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I run an XT short cage mech on a 2/9 (22/32 and 11/34) and it shifts fine. Just on the limit of the range.
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  • Paulkingk
    Paulkingk Posts: 689
    Supersonic yes if i undo the cable it will sit in the 11t but then with the limit screw set and cable fitted it'll shift up and be a bit slow coming back down it's worse under load.
  • kdawg74
    kdawg74 Posts: 271
    I run a XO short cage on a 1x9 set up with a 11-34 cassette and get no probs, could it be a routing problem?.
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  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Maybe the problem is that it's a second hand mech. These things wear out, and I wouldn't recommend buying them second hand. Same goes for brake pads and handlebars.
  • captainfly
    captainfly Posts: 1,001
    I've got a short cage X9 rear with X7 shifter (never had an issue), so long as the mech will move through full motion by hand without the chain on it is probably not the mech and as you say it will return to the smallest cog with no tension. I'll assume it's a 1x9 set up and the chainline is all right. So the other suspects are cable. shifter, cassette and chain.
    I know the X-5s I used to have (and are now on the bike I built for my dad) were a bit of a pain to index, the initial cable tension was critical, the limit screw for the smallest cog has to be spot on so with no cable it runs smooth, then the cable needed to be set with no slack but no tension (barrel adusters at their minimum) If the mech is shifting up then there is tension in the cable.
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  • jayson
    jayson Posts: 4,606
    Sounds like a knackered mech to me. The X9 mech on my remedy was in the same state, it would go up the block to a bigger sprocket but wouldnt come back down without a jolt to get it goin even withthe cable disconnected.

    The rear mech was replaced under warranty and its been completely problem free ever since.

    Maybe this is why the guy sold it cheap in the first place?
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Paulkingk wrote:
    Supersonic yes if i undo the cable it will sit in the 11t but then with the limit screw set and cable fitted it'll shift up and be a bit slow coming back down it's worse under load.
    To clarify, convention is that 'up' is to a higher gear (smaller number of teeth) and vice-versa, sounds like your working backwards...

    The X9 can be held out of top gear (smallest cog) if the rear cable outer is too long and pushes on the mech like a spring (opposing force from cable stop on rear stay) this is worse for bikes with chain stay mounted stops than seat stay mounted stops.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    I'd agree that the cabling is the problem here.
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  • Paulkingk
    Paulkingk Posts: 689
    Whilst supposedly at work today I un-did the cable and the mech would not sit in the smallest cog unless I pushed it across with my finger, could this still be the outer cable pushing the mech over? Also any thoughts on why if i shift into the largest cog the mech won't then shift back towards the small cog with out a bit of persuasion?
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Ah, if that is happening it migth be stiff links in the mech cage. Work them hard by hand and see if they loosen up. Maybe a drop of lube too on the pivots.
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  • Paulkingk
    Paulkingk Posts: 689
    will give it a go, If that fails it'll be a case of the poor man buys twice :roll:
    Thanks
  • jon1993
    jon1993 Posts: 596
    my x5 on the carrera did this for a while i found its a combo between various things stiffened joints on mech from muck/grit slightly stiffer cables and a weakened spring with time, a drench in wd and a working with the hand solved that. I dont know the tecnical name for it but the bolt that controls how close your top cog on ur x9 is to the cassette could be to close preventing shifting, that sorted mine works perfect now try this maybe?
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    That bolt is the B-screw.

    Always worth giving it a clean, maybe use some WD4o to loosen it and then a drop of real oil to keep the pivots lubed, make sure the inner cable runs free, replace if necesary, meanwhile remove the rear outer cable and see if it swings across to the smallest cog more easily....

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Paulkingk
    Paulkingk Posts: 689
    Ok shotened the rear mech outer and then spent some time pulling it up and down and covering in GT85, It' now seems to work fine. (in the stand) prob won't get a chance to ride it now till i get back from Dalby next weekend :lol: But will let you know if all is good.

    Thanks for taking the time to help

    Peace :P
  • Paulkingk
    Paulkingk Posts: 689
    It did work fine on the trail untill playing about on a double on the way home from work I bailed and bent the mech hanger, You just can't make it up :roll:

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