Sportive geometry

BeaconJon
BeaconJon Posts: 294
edited August 2011 in Road buying advice
Hi folks,

Just after some advice. I'm looking to do a few sportives next season on top of the club TT's. Thing is my lower back gets a beating on my S Works E5 above 40 miles so I was wondering what type of geometry I should be looking for in more comfortable frame.

Cheers, Jon

Comments

  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Two inter-dependent variables that often get confused:

    Position / geometry is the optimum position for your morphology / flexbility - 'sportive' geometry typically means shorter toptube and longer headtube to create a more upright position.

    Comfort is a combination of a wider group of factors including rider position, frame materials, contact points but probably most significantly wheel/tyre choice and pressure.

    If you're really uncertain, get a bike fit to determine your optimum riding position and base your bike/frame choice on that information.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • BeaconJon
    BeaconJon Posts: 294
    Appreciate the info, very interesting. I was aware of using a shorter top tube but I hadn't thought of a longer head tube, quite logical really.

    I'm reluctant to get fitted as I want to build the bike myself with my choice of frame rather than getting pushed onto whatever they stock at the shop, I guess swallowing the fitting charge could pay dividends though as the bigger miles go by.
  • I'd try a saddle with more padding and lower pressures in your tyres before buying a new bike.
  • BeaconJon
    BeaconJon Posts: 294
    I'm currently running Michelin Pro Race 2's at 120psi on Zondas (clinchers).

    My saddle is relatively cheap but seems to fit my backside ok although it's not really in-keeping with the spec on the rest of the bike. Maybe I need to get fitted for a new saddle first.
  • manxshred
    manxshred Posts: 295
    Get fit by a pro and they won't force you into any brand. Even the brand specific ones don't force you to buy anything. You do the fit, and go away and find the frame that fits your numbers and your eye.

    I used Cadence Sport for a independent bike fit. Very good, although after the fit, I have had to reduce the number of bikes I was looking at due to their geometry.
  • BeaconJon
    BeaconJon Posts: 294
    Sounds like the way to go.

    Hope you don't mind me asking but what was the cost of the fitting?
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    If you go to an independent shop they'll often discount the cost of the bike fitting from the bike or frame if you buy that from them. You're probably running your tyre pressures a bit too high which will contribute to the firmness of the ride - 5.5-6 bar is usually the point of diminishing returns and likewise a 25mm tyre provides a bigger air pocket for better comfort and handling.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • manxshred
    manxshred Posts: 295
    Cadence Sport was £120.

    Also, way too high pressure in the tires. Higher will be faster on a perfectly smooth surface. On the road, they will just skip and jump and will feel faster due to this. Dropping the pressure will increase comfort and could increase speed due to better traction.
  • BeaconJon
    BeaconJon Posts: 294
    Again thanks. I'll drop the pressures at the weekend and see how it goes.
  • BeaconJon
    BeaconJon Posts: 294
    Again thanks. I'll drop the pressures at the weekend and see how it goes.