Help a noob build a full suss bike up
Big Question
Posts: 82
ive not been mountain biking long and have a hardtai,l really enjoying it but was wondering today on the merits of a full suss after getting my arse thrown around all morning. Anyway this afternoon i managed to snare a kona dawg 2007 full suss frame for £100 from the classifieds, i figured i could build it up over the winter with no massive rush and id like to do it all myself even though i have no knowledge.
i will be using secong hand parts where possible, i dont have a budget as such but id guess 500-1000 all in. i will probably have loads of questions along the way...
anyway to cut to the point firstly i need to know what bottom bracket to buy or how to meaure my frame for one? ive no idea what im looking for and i can find no info on the kona site other than it was originally fitted with a RMP ISIS?
any pointers appreciated
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The BB on the 2007 dawg was a 68mm shell, with an axle length of 108 if i remember rightly from when i had one but i cant be sure.2008 Kona Dawg Deluxe http://s1187.photobucket.com/albums/z39 ... luxe%2008/
Schwinn Madison fixie
Tifosi Road bike
Singlespeed Hardtail http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z39 ... AG0457.jpg0 -
From side to side, will be 68mm or 73mm. Just get a Hollowtech crankset with external bb and it will fit.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
ps you need to do some reading if you want to build a bike. Asking questions is fine, but if you don't know what to ask.....I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
yeah, i will be doing some research, figured id start with the bb and go from there
thanks.0 -
Axle length is specific to the crank.0
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I think it will fit. The description on the site says:
Bottom Bracket: SM-BB70 - 68, 73mm
I am guessing the 68 refers to the diameter of the "shell". The 73mm is the external protrusion the crank arms attach to (unless they're integrated? Is there such a thing as an integrated crank arm?).
Good luck with your project. You're a braver man than me. I'd just save up the £1000 and buy a Canyon Nerve or something else from Canyon.0 -
68-73 means this bb fits either 68 or 73 shells. HtII cranks don't need special bb sizes. Just follow the instructions properly and you be fine.A Flock of Birds
+ some other bikes.0 -
Curious Yellow wrote:I think it will fit. The description on the site says:
Bottom Bracket: SM-BB70 - 68, 73mm
I am guessing the 68 refers to the diameter of the "shell". The 73mm is the external protrusion the crank arms attach to (unless they're integrated? Is there such a thing as an integrated crank arm?).
Oh and guessing doesn't help someone asking for advice really!
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
ok thanks a lot.
hollowtech it is0 -
That is a double and bash crankset. Is that the way you're going?0
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The Beginner wrote:Curious Yellow wrote:I think it will fit. The description on the site says:
Bottom Bracket: SM-BB70 - 68, 73mm
I am guessing the 68 refers to the diameter of the "shell". The 73mm is the external protrusion the crank arms attach to (unless they're integrated? Is there such a thing as an integrated crank arm?).
Oh and guessing doesn't help someone asking for advice really!
Simon
Fair point. That was a pretty stupid guess on my part. I'll avoid "helpful" guesses in the future!
Apologies to the OP for any confusion created.0 -
ftwizard wrote:That is a double and bash crankset. Is that the way you're going?
yes, i want to build something a bit more robust than my hardtail and since i wont need the third ring it seems a good way to go
on another note, the original dawg 2007 came with 120mm forks, ive heard you can get away with 140mm
my idea was to get a second hand pair of tora 318 u turns, ive had them before and i liked them, does 80-130mm travel seems ok for an " all mountain" type build or would i benefit from 140mm?
i suppose i want a bike that can cover most situations apart from extreme downhill riding.0 -
ok so stripped frame down today and sent it off to the powder coaters (frame was badly scratched, thats why i got it quite cheap) the pivot bearing had a bit of play in it and i couldnt figure out how to get it out so its going in the oven lol. so will probably take it to local kona dealers for some new bushes when it comes back. most of the parts of my rockrider will fit just need new forks and check the front mech i think. will post some pics up in a few weeks and ask here if i need any more help along the way
decided on some second hand revalations or fox talas when i can come across some for a decent price. seems more sensible to pay another 100 quid and save 400-500 gram on the forks than chase it elsewhere me thinks. should come in under 13kg i hope0 -
Curious Yellow wrote:I think it will fit.
I am guessing
Don't take a wild stab in the dark when it comes to other people spending money on parts.0 -
SLX HTII double and bash around £89 new .....yup, with BB
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=280190 -
yeah thanks^ that was the one i was going to go for,
although im considering using the deore triple thats on the rockrider dont think weights much different and it might be better ratios for all round riding, depends whether i can be patient enough to build this over a few months or i get too eager lol.
Is it possible to remove the bash ring on the double? read its quite heavy at 200grams?0 -
just buy the triple instead then here Shimano SLX Triple0
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^thanks, decide to stick to the deore, may as well use it.
cant figure out hot to upload pics
but so far
powdercoated frame and put it back together
fitted headset and forks
fitted deore crankset
i know i need a 51mm chainline, is this measure from centre of bottom bracket to midle ring?
and will it matter if im a few mm out?
cheers :P [/img]0 -
well its finished!
weighs in at 31lb
At dalby today
well chuffed0 -
£100 seams cheap!? :shock:
I paid £127 for my 1998 Specialised FSR a few months back.
Still working on mine, it currently looks like this (taken last saturday)
The frame was mango coloured and had more stone chips than my car looks well in copper paint i think, still need to buy some white handle bars and a white seat post, just been tinkering away with it when beer funds dictate
I suspect you got the better deal with your bike though, nice one!1999 Specialized FSR Elite MAX Backbone.
1998 Specialized FSR Ground Control - stripped for parts.
2011 Boardman Pro HT - SOLD! (low quality, expensive garbage)0 -
the frame was cheap at £100 but it was badly scratched, and i paid £40 to powdercoat it. all the other parts were swapped over from my rockrider, apart from the fox forks and i had to get a new front mech.
yours is a nice colour
my original plan was to build it over a few months but i got giddy, i weighed it properly last night and its closer to 33lb so ive got some tubeless wheels off ebay and will try to get it under 30 in the next couple of months.
then ill probably build a hardtail lol, its quite addictive this building lark0 -
Big Question wrote:
my original plan was to build it over a few months but i got giddy
LMFAO!!!
Same here, mine was supposed to be a restoration project to tide me over the frozen winter months, something to play with in the garage, and i got carried away with the tools1999 Specialized FSR Elite MAX Backbone.
1998 Specialized FSR Ground Control - stripped for parts.
2011 Boardman Pro HT - SOLD! (low quality, expensive garbage)0