Brake and gear cable survey
DW01
Posts: 66
Hello all!
I'm looking at getting some road bike brake and derailleur cables and was wondering if you could help me (and others possibly)
Could you provide the:
A) make and model of brake and derailleur cable
cost and place you buy it
C) reason for choosing the cables you use.
I've considered dura ace brake cables and jagwire but thought I get a consensus and see if using standard cheap ones work just as well.
I'm looking at getting some road bike brake and derailleur cables and was wondering if you could help me (and others possibly)
Could you provide the:
A) make and model of brake and derailleur cable
cost and place you buy it
C) reason for choosing the cables you use.
I've considered dura ace brake cables and jagwire but thought I get a consensus and see if using standard cheap ones work just as well.
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Comments
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Jagwire, off eBay.Stumpjumper FSR 09/10 Pro Carbon, Genesis Vapour CX20 ('17)Carbon, Rose Xeon CW3000 '14, Raleigh R50
http://www.visiontrack.com0 -
A) Nokon.
~£100. Chain Reaction Cycles online.
C) Lightweight, maintenance free, crisp shifting and braking.Ben
Bikes: Donhou DSS4 Custom | Condor Italia RC | Gios Megalite | Dolan Preffisio | Giant Bowery '76
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ben_h_ppcc/
Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143173475@N05/0 -
Yokozuna Reaction
£45 from PBK (but no stock at the moment)
http://www.probikekit.com/uk/components/bicycle-cables-and-cable-sets/yokozuna-reaction-complete-brake-and-gear-cable-set.html
...brilliant performance, and not as expensive as some high end offerings
Here's a little review
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-road-bike-root-category/2011-yokozuna-reaction-complete-cable-and-housing-kit-7347.3191.0.NONAV.html0 -
The shimano ones that came with the groupset.
I've never had need to replace them.0 -
That's great thanks guys I may buy the jagwire ones from eBay AND the yokozuna ones as a back up! Thanks people much appreciated0
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I've got cables that came with my Dura Ace groupset from at least 10 years ago still going strong. I'd not splash out £100 on cables unless I had a particularly tricky routing to solve.0
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The outers are more important IMHO. Any extra money you spent on very high end cables could be spent changing the inner and outers sooner before they start to get sticky.
Also, fitting Middleburn cable oilers inline means you can flush out the crud (more important if you ride in all conditions).
http://www.middleburn.co.uk/access_cableoilers.php0 -
Gore ride-on pro's for the gears unless you've got internal routing in which case you'd need to check if it fits. It's pricey but maintenance free for years.0
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Have always used the Shimano cables that come with the groupsets.Set them up, and maintain them properly, and I expect in 99% of cases these will be as good as you will ever need.0
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A) Shimano Dura-Ace
One of the online stores. Bought both the full kit plus a load of replacement inners. The inners are very cheap.
C) I don't use the more expensive sealed cables as I don't expect to keep them that long. I do a full strip, clean and rebuild of each bike annually. The inners get replaced then. Outers less often. I'll tend to buy a different frame, bars or levers every few years and gradually the kit moves towards the winter hack as time goes on. I'll replace the outers when changing kit.0 -
I just use whatever the lbs has. Went in, me: can I have some cables, them: yes sir, here you go, will be this much, me: thanks, leaves0
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Random cheap cables from the LBS, work perfectly and were about £5 in the total bike fettling bill (new bb and crankset).--
FCN 90 -
On my audax, the gear cables are Alligator I-Link outers with Powercordz inners. Bought from Clee Cycles, I-Link are £40, Powercordz £65, but looks like Clee no longer stock the gear cables, they only seem to have the brake version. Bought because I got fed up with steel cables seizing up on my bike due to over zealous salting. These are zero maintenance now they've settled in. Although they're not supposed to stretch, over the first about 2 years, they did slightly and I've had to adjust them once. The coated steel cables and spare liner from the I-Links are on my hybrid, where the liners are stopping the cable chafing under the bottom bracket. Powercordz/I-link shifting is better than the original shimano steel cables, but I wouldn't bother fitting these to my race bike, since it's no better than the Gore cables that came fitted with.
Brakes are the original shimano cables which came with the bike, but being above the mudguards, are less susceptible to salt damage. 8 years old, no fraying, no real stretch problems, no rust, so no reason to change them yet.0